After rebuilding the rear end in my '14, a few rivets are now leaking oil. What would be the best way to stop the leak? Would JB weld hold good enough to medal that has been soaked in oil for 100 years?
An old trick that seemed to work somewhat with the 13,14-15 (early) rear that had not seen a bunch of vibrational use causing the rivets to leak was to steam it out after disassembly and sand blasting, was to coat the inside and out side with POR 15. While it is very tacky spray on your primer coat to make it stick. POR 15 is also used to stop old aluminum boats from leaking around some of the rivets too. Now granted it will not stop stretched or damaged rivets from rock dragging abuse. Those you'd need to replace after drilling the old out. Do NOT drill oversize!!! Use the same type of steel rivets. Some called the old early rivets iron. They might be too soft. But they too should work with todays roads. There are a LOT of problems re-riveting the removed rivets.
1. best way to remove a rivet is to chisel off the head. Then drive it out with an undersized punch.
2. You HAVE to have the correct rivet heading tool!!!
3. Work them cold and not too fast. Take it easy. You'll have to have a rivet tool on BOTH ends of the rivet. Even the head that is on the one end will need to be supported. In the early 70's when I made mine I bought regular tool steel, octagonal chisel stock, about 3/4" in dia. (across the flats). While it comes un-heat treated. I would center punch the end and on one side. Next drill a starting hole the dia of the needed rivet head finished diameter. about 1/16th" dp. Then grind a drill round on the point. If you do not know someone to do this task it can be done at your local tool regrinding shop. Then drill in a drill press the tool blank to the depth of the finished existing rivet head height. Next is hardening the tool steel newly made rivet set. You harden it the same way you did cold chisels in high school. There are 3 types of tool steel. Those that harden with water, oil, and air. Most of the old chisel hex stock is water hardening. Heat it up in a bar b que grill and then using tongs dip it into the water and give it a figure 8 swurrel. Then remove it quickly while it is still rather hot! Let it get rid of all of the steam coming off of it then after a couple of seconds dip it again and out. again figure 8 it. Let the steam disappear, wait a couple of seconds or three then repeat the process. three dips is usually enough. Do NOT bring the temperature down too fast!!!!! Use new octagonal or hex stock available from on line industrial supply houses. School suppliers for Industrial Arts supplies use to be THE place to find it. Not sure of that today as we are a breed of Dinosaur I was told in 1999. I went out in 2002.
Hope this helps with your question or maybe someone else's.
Joe in Mo.
Howard, for a temporary fix, silicone sealant(gasket sealer) would work very good, IF, you can get the area CLEAN!! You didn't say which rivets are leaking, but I would guess some the lower ones. If you can get the area clean, and I mean, CLEAN, just work some of the sealant around the leaking rivets and let it cure. Spray brake cleaner is very good for this, but may take a few applications before it is clean enough for the sealant to work. If there are any signs of lube leaking out, it most likely won't work. JB weld would likely be too rigid to allow for any flexing, which would be needed. Other than that, a tear down is most likely needed. May be worth a try for a while. JMHO. Dave
I've used this method on hogs head felt seal leaks. Apply slight vacuum to oil drain hole and spray carb cleaner to rivit. When dry apply rtv sealer to rivit and the vacuums will pull the rtv in around the hole. Remove the vacume and let dry. Will do the trick. Worked for me.