These have over 150K combined mileage, will go back in with addition of modern seals. KGB
That looks like an awfully big opening. What keeps them in place?
Steve they fit right over the collar on the carrier along with the thrust washer. KGB
Years ago I rebuilt the carrier with 3.25 gears and the same bearings you have. Disappointed with the performance compared to standard a few thousand miles later, rebuilt again using era available ball bearing thrust bearing units and standard gears. Much happier with results and no problems.
After a few thousand miles on those roller bearings, found roller pitting not there when new. Lubricant problem? Not. Used Lubriplate brand gear oil sold by John Regan, formula specific not to attack bronze/brass parts. No bronze/brass used in rebuild, but was recommended at that time for best lubrication.
Bob, I have been well satisfied with these, use a mix of 85/90 and lucas. One set of these bearings came from Ken Swans ruxtel that he replaced before the Alaska run in 01. They had 50k plus on them at the time, I added a new set and have run both over 50k since. I didn't keep track of which set went where and cannot tell any difference now. KGB
I have these in my 3 T's and haven't had any problems with them. Yes I know the original set up is good also and these to me seem to work as well.
Some like them and some don't. Its about the same as choosing which type of transmission bands to use. And on we go>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> M H O
Have only use these needle bearing thrusts in two axles, one car is sold, these I removed after about 2000 miles when taking apart that rear end after install of a Ruckstell.
Didn't have issues, but the steel collar was beginning to rust away, and while you can't see in the photos, some of the needles were pitted with micro pits, and some where 'flattened' in places. Don't know why. But now only use bronze thrusts.
Are you saying the retainer that holds the rollers in the Timken thrust plate and maybe the rollers were rusting?
Looks like someone has been hammering on the axle to remove a wheel hub.
The thrust washer looks toasted.
Verne, yes, looks to me the corrosion on the retainer for the needles is rust. I don't know, but moisture got in the rear end I guess. But do know that bronze thrusts won't rust
In the garage, a wheel puller is used. Can't figure the flats, and they were only on a few of the needles. But there were many with pits.
Didn't want to reuse these, so bronze used instead.
Re; flat spots on rollers: I was once told by an SKF bearing rep that roller bearings usually need a certain amount of load or they can slide instead of roll, which can cause flat spots to wear into the rollers. Perhaps there are times that straight-ahead driving does not put enough side load on the axle to load the bearings enough...
I installed this type of roller ONLY on the loaded side of the carrier. I used bronze washer on the other side. Worked great. My concern was as described by Brian Eliason.
Question for any of you who have used the needle bearing thrust....Could you tell any difference in performance?
Just a wild guess based on no personal experience at all: I bet the answer to Hal's question is no, unless tripling the cost counts as performance.
No difference in performance, just lots easier to install. Plug and play. KGB
The roller bearing will have less drag as the rollers turn. The brass washer is a drag, rub bearing. I installed the roller bearings 10 years ago in a 27 Touring. No problems. I would think someone was using a knocker to cause a roller to go flat. Poor oil will pit any bearing. To tight a fit will also cause a problem no matter what type of bearing you use. The roller bearing is cheap to buy and has less drag. Pick what you want. Scott
I have put about 10 sets in for Guys, and have heard of no problems, but that doesn't mean anything.
The imprint from the rollers is from condensation, and, or an acid effect, the same as in an engine when setting, say over winter.
If you see sweat on the rear axle, the same thing is inside the axle, and motor.
End clearance, or play should be about .010 thousandths. When the housings heat up, that will be less.
When a rear end is rebuilt, the thrust washers are the first to go, and then everything else.