the issue has been going on since I've had the car anyways.. that's 4/5 yrs.. I installed new bands thinking it would solved my problems but it's still the same.. she starts up. and runs great on low, but when I shift her onto high gear .. the darn thing just bogs down, it's like I lose power, then she slowly starts to gain speed, but by that time i'm already at the next intersection slowing down.. I gave her a full tune-up, oil, plugs, etc. I pulled out the coils from my other T, I don't have any issues with those, so I can count them out.. (my other T shifts from low to high with no problems). any adjustment I should look at.. I wont get to it for a week or so, due to the cold weather but thought I start asking.. any help would be great full.
I had a car do that.When going into high it felt like a ton of weight was dumped on it.I took rear end out,replaced the so called NOS thrust washers with bronze ones and the problem went away.
Sorry if I don't sound technical.. but where's this NOS thrust washers located?, and I assume it's something that's only noticeable when changing into high gear since I'm not having issue's with the low gear.. will I hear something if I lift her up by the back and spin the wheels?.
NOS= new,old stock. I had rebuilt the rear end with some new babbit ones. You live and you learn.(hopefully )
It is in your rear end the old Babbitt ones tend to melt and disappear to the bottom of the differential.
This is what they should look like
search the forum on thrust washers you will get all the info you need
My T did that and it turned out to be the yoke adjustment for the hand clutch lever. I'd let off the pedal for high and the car would bog down like I put the brake on. Only much better! It started right after I adjusted the bands. I got help on the forum here and adjusted the yoke to 1/16" and the problem was gone. This copy came from the forum. Might be your problem. PK
I think that's just the nature of the Model T beast. -My car had never been a stellar performer right after the upshift, either. -What it amounts to is; the Model T really needs an intermediate gear between low and high and of course, doesn't have it.
You didn't mention what kind of timer you have or its condition, but a timer that's either worn, dirty or contaminated with black slime will take a toll on performance.
Another possibility is that you're not retarding the timing when you upshift. -On a standard Model T engine, that's supposed to make a difference—at least according to the manual. -In my case, playing with the timing doesn't really help much, but I'm told such behavior could be a function of my high-compression head, bigger-than-standard intake manifold and NH carburetor.
Well, I guess it won't hurt to do both, Better now than when I want to drive this spring, i'll go ahead and check the yoke thanks Pat for the diagram, and since I have time. i'll replace the washer, and heck.. i'll be in a better place come this spring..Thanks Jack & GR.. "is there a diagram of were this washer goes or how to replace it" do I need to take the whole rear end off.??
You should be able to push the car on a level surface in neutral without turning the engine. If it turns the engine when you push in neutral, either your clutch is out of adjustment, or the low or reverse band is too tight. The clutch wouldn't drag in high, but a tight band could slow you down and eventually cause a drum to crack.
Another thing to check is the gear ratio of the rear axle. To do this, you leave it in high gear with the parking brake handle all the way forward. Note the position of one of the rear valve stems. I like to start this test with the stem at the very bottom. Then turn the crank and count how many turns of the crank it takes to turn the rear wheel one complete turn. The standard T gearing was 3.63 to 1. That means it takes approx 3 and 2/3 turns of the crank for one turn of the wheels. With that ratio, most cars will gain speed quickly in low, and slowly pick up speed in high. Some people over the years installed a higher ratio for more speed on a flat highway. I have one with 3.0 to 1. That car will barely start out in low and even slower in high. The slightest hill I need to start out in Ruckstell. Anyway a higher ratio is difficult to drive in traffic or on hills. If that's your problem, you will need to replace with standard gears. You also don't say what body style you have. The Fourdoor is much heavier than a Rodster and even the number of passengers makes a difference.
Lastly, if you have a tired engine, it will take some ring and valve work or more to fix your problem.
That happened to me years ago. What I discovered was one of the triple gear bushings had seized. While in low I could over come the drag but in high it was too much. Hope this is not your problem...Jerry.
Quote: "and since I have the time. I;ll replace the washer" end quote.
RVB, It is not as simple as just replacing a washer. The thrust washer"s" that Jack mentioned will be a complete tear down and rebuild of the rear end and involve gear oil replacement, gaskets, seals, brass thrust washers, fiber axle washer, etc.
Do you have the Ford manual (black book)? If not you should get one and read the chapter on how to replace the thrust washers. I do not know your skill level but please be sure you follow the manual and DO NOT CUT CORNERS because your life depends on being able to stop the car and if the washers and rear end is not assembled properly you won't have brakes. I'm not trying to scare you just letting you know it's more then just changing washers.