Of course I had to do the other one too, lol.
Also, the same question goes for here too...is there a pin type switch available in these years?
I'm enjoying your art
Usually there is a sheet metal cylinder covering the pot metal lock cylinder. The sheet metal cylinder has slots were the locking tabs (or whatever they're called) falls down and stops rotation of the lock cylinder if the key isn't in place and lifts the tabs just the right amount so they're flush with the outer surface of the lock cylinder.
Looks good it really needs something else. I have looked but never seen a schematic of this switch that shows what contacts are made in what switch position. Can you add that to this drawing?
This is a common wiring diagram but even it lacks a schematic for the switch. What contacts are made in what switch position??
Martin. Here are some pics of the "other" forgotten switch. If you need any more photos for details let me know. Are all your drawings going to be available as a set some day ...??
Fantastic drawing! Yes, the early versions of this switch used 3 pins locking into three bayonet L-slots. You could take it apart for cleaning by twisting the switch wafer counterclockwise.
It ain't fair that anyone should have so much talent to draw when I have absolutely none.
You're amazing Martin!
1926 TT Trucks had the older style rectangular switch plates unlike the 26 cars. The open cab TT never used the newer oval shaped panel. The closed cab TT for 1927 changed to the newer style oval panel that was plated.
Roger, do you have a picture of this lock...because I based this on my lock and it didn't have a sheet metal casing.
Jim, I thought they were all wired pretty much the same...but I'll look into it.
Donnie, I didn't forget the lost switch, lol.
James, ok I'll add that to it too, wasn't sure if they went to the tabs or not, all of these I've seen have only had the tabs.
Fred, the TT in 27 was an non-electrified truck? Or was it electrified?
Ok, as far as I know the wiring is exactly the same as on other cars, but just in case I'm wrong...here's what I've found (I hope this is what you wanted and or makes sense).
Very nice wiring diagram. What contacts are made in what switch position?
I have never seen a switch schematic for this switch. Maybe I should draw one.
See my other posting...YES you making a contact diagram would be 'sweet'...
My purpose in 'seeking' is several fold...there seems to be a lot of interest in redoing black cars correctly right now...and more importantly, a few seem to want to redo the magneto only/not 'electrified' cars.
I have been labeled a certified loon because I have forever claimed that the mag only used a different switch! I can't fight 15 million, ya' know! And have felt but never thought completely through that if you take a switch arranged as we normally expect it to be for a batt...and try to just exchange the batt and mag wires so that you still have mag headlights...you just may flash dry your magneto, if you use a pony battery to help you start!
I have my answer finally, thanks to Donnie in another thread...the difference IS plain as day once you know what to look for...but before I bark wanted to think out how the switch internals would go and that's where I have that brain freeze.
Ok, how's this?...
Sorry George, I borrowed mercilessly from your excellent graphic.
Wow...no problem Martin but I'm not exactly sure of the switch 'frog' and why I asked the question and posted the pic on the other thread...you do do nice work
Although the picture with the ground screw in place came off of a forum search...ground screw version normally was not a part of the bulk of the switches...
Also looking at the 'frog' or 'buss' whatever you want to call it...it CAN NOT bridge 3 contacts unless I have something totally wrong in what I cut from pix...so keep the interaction going...let's hope the others chime in with corrections...and explanations.
FWIW...do NOT work on your non-electric versions until this one gets resolved. Donnie pictures show the difference needed, I'm not sure how many will catch it, but before I 'spill the beans' I'd like to understand how this frog/buss works...and that way it becomes a slam dunk when I show the next surprise.
George, that's what I traced from the swing of the two arcs...one way the upper contacts the hit both the "Dim" and the "Bat", whilst the lower contacts hits the "Tail" and a neutral position. When swung the other way the upper contacts hit the "Tail" and a neutral position, whilst the lower contacts hit both the "Bright" and the "Bat". Both directions power the "tail" whilst only changing the headlights power.
I think the part that I have been missing is that the gray/silver 'ring' is also 'hot' when one of the spring copper dimples is on the batt?
From how you describe it functioning Martin, then it would all make sense. Thanks! (Somehow my mind was thinking the 'ring' was isolated.)
Here is a picture showing several variants of the sheet metal cylinder covering the pot metal lock cylinder I wrote about above. The top cylinder to the right is shown with its lock cylinder pulled out besides it, the others doesn't have any lock cylinders left. The one to the left is still connected to a pin type switch case.
Roger...wooo, my car's switch didn't have any of those one it...but I do like the middle one. I've always put the key in when I was doing anything with the switch, just so those bloody little pins wouldn't fall out.
But if the pins doesn't fall out when you pull the key out with the switch assembled, then there must be something in there doing the job of the cylinders in the above picture.
To answer your question Martin, Ford was still producing non starter trucks in 1927. I don't know off hand if there were cars like this too but the non electrified TT's had the non plated, black oval shaped panel.
Mart, I was just working on that switch. On mine there is a thimble (?) that holds the tumbler ,held in place by tabs.