Could someone tell me if the rear lower outer lip of the sub-frame, between the T strip is flat side to side. Or does it have a slight bow to it. I have removed my lower rear panel to replace it, (someone had put a home made one on it) and mine seems to be flat across it.
I know the surface at the trunk is slightly bowed, but I don't know about at the bottom edge of the body.
there was a discussion about this a year or so ago. Maybe someone can come up with a link to it.
Thanks, I'll wait and see if someone does.
This link may be of some help,
Thanks James, I read the whole thing a couple of times. Good info that I can use.
But I still need to know if the body & sub-frame are flat or a slight curve to it, at the bottom. I can not tell by mine, it has a inward bend in the outer side of the sub-frame, from backing into something, bending it in lightly. I need to pull it out to get it flat, or more for a out word curve.
Pat -- As I remember from that earlier thread, the panel below the turtle lid has an outward bow to it. I don't remember about the rear body extension which it sits on, but I would think that it would be straight across the back.
Someone involved in that earlier thread must remember it.
Here's a reference containing several posts by Mr. Don Booth who restored a 26 coupe recently.
Scroll down to this post-> "By Don Booth@ Bay City, Mi on Monday, October 14, 2013 - 04:56 am"
The photo in the reference appears to me to show the rear panel of coupe body is straight at the lower edge. You have confirmed that it bows outward slightly on the upper edge were it meets the trunk lid.
Thanks, That really shows the bottom of the back panel, and a lot more. From what I see It's flat, and I'm going to make mine flat across too.
I looked at a 26 coupe today. The sub rail looks straight and square but the panel across the rear below the trunk has a slight out bow to it. The bow was about the same bottom to top.
This picture shows the a slight bow of the trunk.
I know the lower panel has a bow at the upper trunk lid, but I was thinking the bottom edge was flat. Am I wrong then?
I just removed the bondo job someone did from the door jams, to the rear corners. Someone had brazed a metal edge, three inches tall to them, and left the old metal under them. I knew I had a real problem, when I needed a one inch bolt, to bolt the front of the fender on. He also glassed the inside, which I removed, I can not find much rusting on the inside. It had at least! 5/8 thick bondo on the pass side corner.(Hard to see dent in picture) I hammered it out some, and will have to see what I need to do. When this cold weather goes away again. (next weekend) He did more damage brazing the metal on, then what needed to be fixed, to start with.
When I removed the glass inside front edge of the quarters, there was 3/4 to a inch deep of dirt, he didn't clean out first. I will remove all his metal, and do it right. May have to replace part of the corner.
Forgot the pictures.
The picture before removing the bondo, the lower rear panel was not made to the cross brace underneath, and the panel was split down the middle, bondo over the whole thing to make it look flat. I would knock on it, and it made a thump sound.
Pat, My 26 coupe has an original body, no body work or rust. The edge you reference is straight and as you move up to the truck lid it has a slight curve outward to match the trunk lid. Hope this helps. Bob from Humboldt Tn.
You can see three good size dents on the drivers rear corner, and one above the mess on the passengers side. They should have been knocked out before skinning with some mudd.
I don't know what the extra bolt holes were for.
Bob, That helps alot, Thanks!
I guess all one can say is "Surprise, Surprise, Surprise! (Gomer Pyle voice).
I had a friend who had his Model A coupe for decades, drove it regularly (originally was their only car). When he finally got around to restoring it, he found one corner of the body was almost entirely lead. He sorta wished he hadn't sandblasted so much!