Question on 26-27 Radiator Mounts...

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Question on 26-27 Radiator Mounts...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Saturday, January 03, 2015 - 10:09 pm:

My question is, what is sitting on the lower mounting thimble first...is it the radiator or the radiator apron? I'm not sure what comes first? The end is clear as day, it's the nut and a cotter pin, and below that is the upper thimble, below that is the radiator shell and I think below that is the beauty strip, but I'm not sure if the radiator is next in line or the apron...I'm leaning towards the apron, but since I don't have a 26 or 27, I thought I'd ask one of you who do.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, January 03, 2015 - 10:54 pm:

The lower mounting thimble rests on the radiator apron. The apron rests on the hood shelf. The hood shelf rests on the fender, the fender rests on the frame rail. That radiator apron hole is sized only for the stud, like the hood shelf, and the fender.

The big holes for the lower thimble are only in the radiator support and the shell.

On the nickel shell, the beauty strip is mounted on the radiator apron, but is only clipped with bend tabs to the apron top face. The beauty strip isn't held by the radiator studs or other fasteners.

Hope this helps! :-) Sure do like your drawings Martin...the are really nice!


Inside hood view.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 02:27 am:

Dan, thank you again, for all the pictures you sent me, they have helped me understand the way the fender mounts and those extra brackets that are riveted to the frame and how the fender iron is bolted to it. I just wasn't sure about which was where. But this pictures answers that perfectly.

One question though, the is resting of the frame, is there any frame welt or webbing between the fender and the frame to keep down rattles and squeaks? Just wondering.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 03:00 am:

Here is the drawing:


No welt or webbing.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 04:02 am:

Another quandary I'm having just now, is that if this is the way of the 26-27's, they how about the large apron on the 23-25's? Do they also go under there thimble with a small hole or do they sit on top of the thimble? It seems to me it should be the way they did 26-27 unless this was a revision that only came about for 26-27's.

I have already drawn the 23-25 drawing, but I thought I'd ask just to make sure, just in case I had it wrong and had to flip things about a bit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 09:57 am:

Martin,

It's that final detail that takes 99% of the work :-)

These old plates might help you 'see' what 'was'...



unfortunately, I don't know/recall where these came from.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 11:21 am:

Martin

1. No welting under the fender to frame. No welting on any frame members on a T.

2. The radiator apron on the late '23-'25 [p/n 3977] fit the same way. The aprons have little holes, no big hole for the thimble.

The Improved Car apron, which also has the upper face hole for the retaining screw, [p/n 3977E] (plain) or [p/n 3977C] (deluxe, with nickel finish strip) is different, as it fits on top of the hood shelf.



Ford Service Manual, '24 mounting. Radiator apron on top of the frame, thimble goes on top of the apron, over the upper coil spring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Sunday, January 04, 2015 - 05:14 pm:

The 26-27 assembly drawing is most helpful--thanks to whomever created that. The Ford manual Fig 34 above shows two similar 4-turn coil springs upper and lower, the assembly drawing shows a 3-turn upper and 4-turn lower spring. My repair kit from Langs contains four identical 4-turn springs. Is my kit correct for a 26?

Thanks, jb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 03:42 am:

Ok, one other question then, the apron in the picture above. I can see where the stud goes through it whilst it site on the frame, but there is nothing beneath the apron to keep it off the heads of the rivets? Are there sides on the apron? And if there are or is it relief cut to clear the fender iron bolt?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 04:10 am:

In the drawing Jim posted, what's that unlabeled item on top of the bottom spring?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 04:39 am:

Steve, I think it's the front support for the front cross member, the piece that has the two rivets on top, which is what I'm wondering if they're still there and that the fender and hood self has allowances for them or not, otherwise they're not going to fit that flush with the frame.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 05:29 am:

Ok, is this correct for 23-25...I'm still not sure about the sides of the apron, if there is a hole or not or even if there are sides to it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 09:23 am:

Martin

Here is pic of the end of a "well worn" late '23-25 radiator apron showing the right end. My better ones are on T's :-) There is a hole for the carb choke wire in the apron.


The top has a 'slot' to fit into the stud, not really a small hole, that way the apron can be slid into place. That top edge is clipped at the angle shown too. It's not straight across.

The side part (it also was originally 'clipped' on the ends), is now gone, but it has elongated slotted holes that allow the side to fit under the two frame side rail bolts that hold the fender iron to the frame. (Advantage of 'elongated' holes too is the apron can be adjusted front to back for fit)

The bolting of the sides of the apron pinches the apron to help prevent rattles. As you can see, over time the shake, rattle, roll, of the T will wear those parts away.


Service Manual, showing the two side bolts going thru the side portion of the radiator apron.

And for the others, here is the low radiator and its attached 'shorty' apron that runs under the lower radiator tank.




And here is the nickel shell, with the frame edge piece, that lays to the nickel 'trim strip' on the later '26-'27 T's.


(note, the wear spot isn't supposed to be there)


Completed look of nickel shell, trim strip on the radiator apron, and choke wire (Improved Car, '26-'27)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 11:45 am:

The photo Dan posted of the '23-5 apron is pretty typical of how you find them. 99% of the time some welding and metal work must be done. The apron is placed on the frame before the fender irons, and the nut for the top of the stud is the short type, as used on Model T sidelights, not the common chassis type.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, January 05, 2015 - 01:19 pm:

One other item I forgot to mention in the other drawing thread is that the frame rivets under the apron are flat head style--Not the round head. I'm not sure when the change was made but it must have been pretty early. I have what I think is a 22 frame that has the flat head rivets. And they are flat heads on my 25. They are also flat on the 26-27s.

The 26-27 frames have the frame extensions at the front cross member so the apron doesn't have the side "flag". Those have a screw in the front of the apron to reduce rattling. The screw threads into the engine/spring mount.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Tuesday, January 06, 2015 - 12:28 am:

Dan, what causes the wear spot, George's shell had one of those on that side too. I thought it was for the choke bail, but it's too far to the right and too high for that. But it is interesting that both your and his has exactly the same small wear spot at the same exact spot...his shell by the way is a US made brass shell that had been nickel plated, the same material holds for those side plates too.

The low radiator shell also had the apron riveted to it in one place like the later ones did? Hmmm, ok, I'll make that change.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Thursday, January 08, 2015 - 09:25 pm:

23-25 revision, I think I've got it now.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, January 08, 2015 - 11:51 pm:

Thank you for this post. I was wondering how it went together. I have not done the 26-27 before and have one to put the apron on, it didn't have one. We got the new apron and when I saw the small holes was at a loss.
MarkG


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 04:16 am:

Steve Jelf asked a question a while back. He asked what the piece above the spring is in Jim's picture.
It should be the chassis itself. This passes under a reinforcement bracket which joins the crossmember to the rail, and supports the fender. Unlike earlier cars, the bracket is the top face at the corner.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 05:58 am:

Chris, it's the front support brace for the cross member. There's a small triangular one behind which doesn't show in the cross section. This is the problem with these bloody cross sections. Unless you've got some kind of engineering background or experience with it, reading one can be a might perplexing. But an Iso to my mind makes everything pretty clear, as long as the iso is drawn accurately.

Mark, this is the 23-25, the 26-27 has a bracket that either takes the place of the front support brace on the cross member or is added to it. It has ears that stick up at a 40 or 45 angle from the frame that the fender support iron bolts to. But I think the apron is attached in exactly the same way as the 23-25's are. The stud on a 26-27 is also a wee bit longer to pass through the hood self which comes all the way to the end of the frame, then comes the apron, then the spring and lower thimble, then the radiator and shell, then the top thimble, nut and cotter pin.
I would've posted that drawing here and still will, but I'm awaiting further information before I can complete it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 12:06 pm:

Martin,
I agree with your second paragraph, above.
However, the 1926 'support brace' is rivetted on top of the top rail of the chassis frame, not below it as for the 1925 cars. The top of the frame is joggled down for the final ~1.5", so that the top face of the support bracket is flush with the frame behind it. The two rivets are countersunk so that the apron sits level.
Other 1926 details are as you show for 1925.
The apron of the 1926 cars also has a 1/4" screw into a threaded lug below the crank handle hole.

Incidentally, it helps if, before you slacken the two radiator nuts, you push in a small piece of wood below each mounting stud so they can't go down very far. Otherwise, there may not be enough stud protruding to engage the nut when you reassemble it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 12:07 pm:

Sorry, I should have said that the two csk rivets allow the hood shelf to sit properly; the apron fits above the shelf.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 05:07 pm:

"However, the 1926 'support brace' is rivetted on top of the top rail of the chassis frame, not below it as for the 1925 cars. The top of the frame is joggled down for the final ~1.5", so that the top face of the support bracket is flush with the frame behind it. The two rivets are countersunk so that the apron sits level."

This is not the case for my '26. The front end of the frame is not jogged down is straight and flat, the fender bracket sits on top of the frame secured with countersunk rivets. My engine and frame number is 13,606,xxx.

Respectfully,


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 05:29 pm:

My apologies to James and others. I only fitted the radiator and fenders in the last 2 days and thought I knew how it went!
I just checked and my car (14,6....) is as James describes. The bracket is on top of the frame, but the frame is not joggled, so the shelf and fender have a gap below them aft of the bracket.
I can add that there is no reinforcement below the chassis top rail, so the lower spring top bears on the underside of that top rail.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 06:55 pm:

"However, the 1926 'support brace' is rivetted on top of the top rail of the chassis frame, not below it as for the 1925 cars. The top of the frame is joggled down for the final ~1.5", so that the top face of the support bracket is flush with the frame behind it. The two rivets are countersunk so that the apron sits level."

This is exactly how the one I worked on appears. Why don't you guys post pictures? No pictures, it didn't happen. :-)

In the image below, ignore the hacked up 26-27 fender/frame bracket. This was a conversion the owner needed for early style fenders (TT). You can see a slight jog in the frame top rail where the bracket is riveted.



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 08:33 pm:

Here is a '27 frame, they were a bit thicker material



Front showing a lower area at the front of the frame rail. This one has been poorly repaired with big flatten rivets, the cross member perhaps got loose over the years.

This is a mfg date Nov '25 frame for the Improved Car, it too has the 'flatten' portion on the leading edge of the frame rail.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Friday, January 09, 2015 - 10:12 pm:

Exactly as Chris describes, no apologies needed, just reporting how my 26 was made originally. The fender and hood shelf bolt to the frame so there will be a 'step' up from the frame to the front where these contact the fender bracket. But I don't have pics, so maybe there is no step at the bracket :-).

respectfully, jb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Saturday, January 10, 2015 - 12:30 am:

Thank you everyone for your comments, advice and descriptions. This is the first attempt of the 26-27 drawing. I'm sure if there is something amiss here or not, but since I don't have a 26-27 I'll have to rely on you folks point them out.

My initial layout called for showing that fender extension bracket, but then I thought about it and after reading some of the comments made here I realized that you wouldn't even see it because the fender would be mounted and the front edge of the fender has a 2, 2.5 inch skirt that tapers down from the base of the crown to where it butts to the frame. Even the front fender bolt wouldn't show because of the drawings axis.
Anyhoo I figured you might just see a wee edge of the fender support arm, but not much and maybe not worth the effort in the first place, but I put it in anyway or at least a hint of it. Even the bolts for it are covered by the fender's skirt, so there really isn't much to see in the way that bracket fits and or everything mounts to it. I promise in the chassis drawing this will be made very clear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Benedict on Saturday, January 10, 2015 - 07:49 am:

I believe the mounting stud is 3 1/2" long. Even with this length, it is next to impossible to start the top nut without driving temporary wedges under the bottom elongated nut. Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, January 10, 2015 - 10:59 am:

Martin

Really nice drawing.....that is great!


Bob is correct, the '26-'27 radiator stud is p/n 3929B2, and is the longest length to go up thru the hood shelf on the Improved Car.

The '19-'25 used the p/n3929B, and the shortest stud is for the '09-'19, p/n3929, its 2 7/16" length.

Also, that p/n3930 Stud spring is the same as p/n2742 Radius rod ball cap spring, the springs being identical.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Saturday, January 10, 2015 - 08:03 pm:

Thanks Bob and Dan, ok, wasn't sure of the length just took a guess, even so I came up short on the stud length.



I just noticed that I've also got the small nut shown too and that shouldn't even be there at all.

I know the springs are the same, but there is really no way to show that here without getting confusing. It would have to be called out on the parts list as what alternates could be used. I haven't even gotten into the parts list side of things yet, that's a whole different kettle of fish that is. And every drawing will have it's associated parts list page(s) for it too.
Usually in such cases (which I'm seriously considering), the drawing would carry item numbers for each and every part shown. The parts list would identify those item numbers with parts numbers. In this case those would be both dealer numbers and Ford factory numbers, brief description, quantity used per assembly and alternates if any, at least that's the plan.:-)

Let me know if you see anything else.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Benedict on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 07:56 am:

I hate to nitpick but on my 26 shell there is no rolled over cover which you show riveted on at the bottom of the shell where the thimble comes up through the large hole. I have no rivet hole either so I assume it is not missing. Great drawing. I spent 18 years as a draftsman before autocad made me retire. Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 08:18 am:

Bob, I know what you mean about autocad...I actually hate that program, solidworks is so much better and more widely used these days than autocad, but I'm using a graphics program, it's way more flexible than any of the cad packages out there. But there is one I'd like to have, does a downloadable 3D animated PDF. You can view it assembled, or you can pull it apart and look at all the inner components, which would really be good with Model T assemblies.

As for the shell support flange, as far as I know, it's supposed to be there. It seems to first showed up on the 23-25's and all the examples I've seen of the 26-27's it's been there. George Clipner's shell on his 26 which I repaired had them and I like to know why yours does not? Did it leave the Ford Motor Company assembly line without anybody noticing something was missing or was it they just plain ran out of that part when your car rolled through the assembly line? Or was it somebody at the Ford plant's better idea that doesn't seem to have caught on? Maybe your car is the only one without it, or maybe not. I sure somebody here must know.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Benedict on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 08:34 am:

Martin, I am helping to rebuild 4 26 T's with a friend which he owns all at one time. Crazy, I know. I will look at his shells to see what they look like, maybe after church. Like you said maybe someone else can chime in here. My shell is nickel along with headlight rings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 10:23 am:

Bob

Do check over that high radiator shell closely as all shells did have that lower trim bracket. Many times they are missing over time. The bracket is held by a hollow rivet.

This 'finish' trim bracket is needed to complete the look with the radiator apron, first used with the high radiator T's.

Below is pic of the low radiator shell, it too has this finished bracket, which also has the thinner 'apron' to cover the lower part of the radiator tank.



The high radiator used two different shells. A plain steel shell, painted black. Then the nickel shell, which is brass, plated in nickel. The brass shells can be mostly told easily by the round holes for the anti-squeak webbing. Or a magnet!


Note the finished bracket riveted to the bottom of the high radiator nickel plated shell.


Underside of the high radiator nickel shell noting the hollow single rivet holding the finish bracket. That bracket is also brass, and nickel plated too.

The high shell in steel has the same finish bracket but that one is steel.


The above nickel shell was missing its finish bracket, so I found a plain steel bracket and used a small solid rivet and put it on as a replacement. As said, many high radiator shells are missing this part. Lang's makes replacements today, cat. # 3947LA and LB and there is a right and left of this trim piece.


Added this photo to show that this old part placed there is steel, that's a magnet hook hanging from the steel trim, that magnet won't stick to anything else on this brass, nickeled plated high radiator shell. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Benedict on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 04:42 pm:

I stand corrected. I hate it when I am wrong. I checked 5 other 26 shells and all of them have the finish bracket on them. My shell must have been an aftermarket item. It even has the ford script and "made in USA" under the script but has no brackets or even holes where the bracket would rivet into. I'll purchase the brackets and finish the shell as it should be. Having a distributor and alternator is bad enough but to have missing brackets out where the whole world could see would be shameful. Thanks for the info Dan. Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Benedict on Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 04:47 pm:

Another point, my shell is steel nickel plated. which also points to aftermarket, Can we keep this between ourselves? Some guys on this forum are ruthless. Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 08:59 am:

Ok this should be the final, the 26/27's apron did not have the elongated frame mounting hole flange that the 23/25's had. To keep the apron from rattling against the cross member there is a screw just below the crank that screws it to the cross member to spring clamp.



Since the shell and apron are only incidental to this drawing and are only shown to help understand the assembly of the radiator mount better details such as the crank and that screw that holds the apron to the frame have been omitted.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 11:32 am:

Very close, but the fender goes on top of the support bracket. On my car, it is cut away so that fender metal is under the shelf outboard and aft of the radiator stud - the fender has a square cut out of its front inner corner rather than a hole to fit over the radiator stud, so the stud is in the corner of the missing square. Sorry this is complicated!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 09:32 pm:

Chris, I know the fender is under the shelf, and quite possibly you'd see a wee bit of it near the hole. I debated putting that detail in, but since it neither adds to nor subtracts from what this drawing is really about I left it out (might be confusing). When I make the drawing for mounting the fenders I'll show everything you've mentioned clearly.

This drawing only shows the radiator mount assembly. The other drawing(s) will show the assembly of the fender, hood self, fender support arm and probably the head light bar, although I'm not sure about that yet, I think that should be a separate assembly by itself.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 06:52 pm:

Anyone know how the radiator mounting thimbles were finished originally - painted, cad plated, nickel plated?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 06:14 pm:

I haven't been able to find any information concerning the factory applied finish to the radiator mounting thimbles. My current ones are reproduction parts purchased 25 years ago. They have a metallic matte type of finish on them.

I am preparing parts to go to the plater's. If the thimbles are to be nickel plated, this is the time for me to find out.

Can anyone confirm? Thanks in advance!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 09:16 pm:

Eric

Proof would be in Ford engineering records.

But have never seen nickel plated upper thimbles, or ones with traces of nickel plate. Besides, plating over steel isn't done, would need several plating steps and would be costly. Have several Ford NOS thimbles, and they have dull black finish.

This photo is one from the Ford assembly line in 1926, with magnify glass could seen dull on the thimble, not shiny as plated parts would appear, like the plated license plate clamps on the headlamp bar, or the shiny nickel plate rims on the headlamps and the radiator shell.

Safe to paint those thimbles a semi gloss black.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, September 11, 2015 - 04:57 am:

Martin, you asked about the wear marks in the trim piece at the sides. It is most pronounced in the softer brass shells on the improved cars. It is caused by that part of the piece rubbing on the rolled edge of the steel apron. It is not uncommon to also see wear on the inner edge of the trim piece where it rubs on the wider rolled bead on the top of the steel aprons that do not have the plated trim piece.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Friday, September 11, 2015 - 03:44 pm:

Ok, I'll get the semi gloss black paint out.
Thanks Dan!

The castellated nuts are the same metallic matte finish. They should probably be the same color as the thimbles?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Friday, September 11, 2015 - 04:19 pm:

Eric

In the T days the factory got supplier fasteners in most cases, they made some, but most were finished in 'raven' what ever that was. Probably not a paint, but a chemical finish by the bolt/nut mfg, like 'gun metal bluing' or 'parkerizing'. "Painting" an individual nut or bolt would gum up the threads. Ford did some zinc plating on parts, but most of the fasteners were either raw steel as made, and if put on chassis parts got a black coat of paint during assembly.

Like to think of assembly as would be done on the factory line, the radiator dropped down off the conveyor, and worker grabbing a nut and thimble from a box on the supply line, that part in the finish as supplied by the manufacturer.



Parts weren't cadmium plated either, that wasn't done in till the later Model A. Bright metallic plating on general use nuts and bolts wouldn't be on the T, except for certain nickel plating on obvious fasteners for the Improved Car in 1927. Of course some brass plating was used on fasteners in the early years.



See all the black painted windshield stanchions in the boxes, my guess is the metal boxes in the foreground marked "T" are full of fasteners for those parts!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sole - Castelldefels (Spain) on Friday, September 11, 2015 - 07:05 pm:

It's difficult NOT to over-restore now that I'm finally doing a ground up on this car.

I have had some chassis parts powder coated and they look too much like plastic now! :-)


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