I have been working on the wood framing of the speedster, but I ran out of quick-poly, resorcinol glue, and straight slot wood screws. So I thought I would work on other things till the supplies come in. I have installed the front spring and fixed a crack in the front cross member. There was a small crack and the spring tie bolt hole was enlarged. I forgot to take photos of the actual weld, before I did the grinding but you should be able to tell what went on from the photos. I used a brass backing bar when welding up the center hole. Every welder should have a brass or copper backing bar (several sizes and shapes). It just makes hole repairs so easy... . I also rebuilt the front spring. and spring clamps. The front spring had a little wear but very little pitting. It is a 26-27 spring and lowers the front one inch. I replaced the steel bushings and shackles with a NOS set I had for years. I wire power brushed the spring leaves, and then linseed oiled the leaves and put a coat of antique Western Auto grease between the leaves. The kind of grease with a nice model T smell and is brown and stringy. I then assembled it with a new tie bolt and leather pad. I then installed it to the cross member with an accessory double spring clamp. Most of the yellow and red paint is original patina. I did the red on the spring tie clamps. The first foot of the frame is now finished in a linseed oil finish and is complete, ready to go. I like the oil treatment to preserve the original patina. Later when the car is done and it looks a little "shabby" I can just get a fruit sprayer and fill it with Marvel Mystery Oil and do a "patina restoration" of the whole car . Im going to try and post a link to the previous thread from last year. Im still new to links, so please bear with me if it messes up ...
here are two pics that did not load with the rest of them .???
Very nice work Donnie!
Donnie, can you tell me what that spring-to-frame 6 hole mounting is all about? I can't see any advantage/dis-advantage in its use, other than perhaps stiffening up the spring a bit. Never seen anything like it before.
Allan from down under.
Glad you asked Allen as I was wondering the same thing. Not sure I've ever seen that before either! It seems like it would be possible to inadvertently over-tighten those U-bolt nuts to the point of putting quite a bit of strain on the weak center portion of the crossmember where the square hole is,......??? I'm sure that just the usual casting with the two nuts in the center is sufficient. Maybe the one with the additional two U-bolts has to do with an accessory such as a PTO,.....???
Actually, in looking at the one photo of that casting, I see that it is not a flat surface where the top spring leaf bears against the casting, but it is cast with a slight curvature to match the curve of the top leaf, so I take back what I said about possible strain on the cross member. Looks like a well designed/engineered part, but it sure looks like "belt & suspenders" overkill to me on a speedster! I'm still thinking it's designed to mount some sort of accessory/implement/PTO or something,.......harold
Dang it! I meant BOTTOM leaf!
Harold and Allen: I agree it is probably an over kill type of thing. I have a couple of these double clamps, and have had several thru the years. It is another of the aftermarket accessories from back in the day. I have always believed it was an "answer" to the "two nut" later type of clamp. After years of the "two U-bolt 4 nut" type of clamp, there may have been a worry of the later 2 nut type being weak. This may have just been a retro-fit to fix a problem that did not exist. That is one of the reasons why a lot of the aftermarket items being made and sold. Harold you are correct about the curve where it meets the bottom leaf. It is machined in a curve. I have lots of different types of accessory items to use on the speedster. I do not want to put too much on it and make it overloaded with accessories, but if I can think of a reason for its use Ill use it. My reasoning for why a "speedster owner" from back in the day choosing to use this, is to strengthen the front clamp area and possibly have less "body roll" .?? And it just looks different.
I don't like those later "2-nut" front motor mounts. Most of them you encounter these days have stripped threads. I think the addition of that aftermarket lower plate with the 2 U-bolts is a good idea.
Ran across this adv for the accessory spring plate you put on the speedster.
Thought you would enjoy!
Seems very practical to me, would like to find one at a swap meet sometime.....would put it to use too!
Dan, thanks for the pic of the ad. I have seen a few of these thru the years and have had several. Ill look and see if I still have another one. If so Ill let you know. Im not going to be able to use this one on the speedster. It just does not like the Laurel Bracket setup. Ill put it on the Montgomery Ward tractor conversion now. I do not believe the Laurel set up will work with just the two nut Y type either. It is designed to work with the early Ford four nut 2 U-Bolt style.
Here's the accessory of the day thread link on the clamp.
Do you have a peerless radiator for that shell?
I think that that clamp will hold the center part of the spring more rigid. It will make the spring stiffer and will have less body roll. I like it. I want one to try. Maybe I can pick one up at Turlock. Scott
Nathan, I do have a Peerless "honeycomb" radiator as well as a couple more shells. It is in poor condition, and not useable, so it and one shell are just display items in the accessory collection.