Ok, '17 T from my dad, so I don't really know what has been done to it & what needs to be done. Alas the transmission is stuck in drive. I have seen the previous post(s) about how to jack up the rear, start the engine and shift between the speeds to see if it can be un-stuck. I think I understand the process, but I will wait until I can do this when it is warmer (it is still Winter) and I can start the car with the garage door open. Question is: in the meantime is there a book or info on what to do next if that doesn't work?
the club has several cheep paperback manuals on different model t parts. engine, transmission, electrical system etc. all the vendors carry them, or maybe rite here on the home page?
Here's the link for all the club service manuals.
Just cut and paste into your browser, or click on it. Good luck!
Likely the clutch disks are dragging. I think the thing to do is to jack up one wheel and start the engine. Once it's well warmed up,you might press the low pedal and see if it will break loose. If that doesn't do it, then change the oil to a 5W-30 and repeat the process. Operating the handbrake will put the car in neutral if all is working well and linkage is correctly adjusted.
The MTFCA Transmission Manual is your best bet. I think it is better than the video's and less expensive. I doubt that the transmission needs to be disassembled and overhauled. The transmission is the most durable part of the driveline.
The problem is, that you might not know what is causing the problem until you disassemble the transmission. What someone told you to do when you jack up one wheel and then push the pedals might unstick it.
Common problems is too heavy oil during cold weather. If you park the car with the parking brake on, oil will get between the disks and if it is too thick, will cause a drag.
Other problems are screw on high speed lever not adjusted to get you neutral when the brake lever is on. Link between low pedal and clutch lever not adjusted correctly. or three fingers in transmission need adjustment.
Some questions are: How long ago did the car run before it was parked? Was it running correctly at the time it was parked? Or was it parked because it was dragging.
You need the book to see what the adjustments are. It might need more than adjustment. The earlier cars had a clutch drum and inside of brake drum which can get worn causing the disks to stick. I would not recommend trying to repair it until you have either the book, or someone familiar with T's who can help you. I don't know exactly where Kearns is, but I do know that there are some members in the state of Utah. Maybe you can find someone nearby.
Thanks Ted. I appreciate the good news! Will do as soon as it warms a bit more & update you.
Collin, in your original post you state you think you understand the process. There's likely a very good chance you do. But, there's nothing like the voice of experience and there's a pretty good chance someone lives close enough to you that could answer a lot of questions. I'm pretty sure there are several Model T owners in Utah. Having someone go through the steps with me when I was starting out sure made it a lot easier. Granted everyone has their own ways of doing things but I sure appreciated those that got me started.
Details on the car: dad restored it a few years ago. He was a machinist and very good with mechanicals, but he has been known to make errors (he is over 80, and is allowed) Touring car needs paint and upholstery, glass and a top and.. well you get the idea. He could not get it to start, but could get it running by push starting it. I have gone through the electrical, replaced needed parts (coil, gapping, and so on) and almost 100% sure I can start it now, but I am sure the trans will need adjustment.
Thanks Mike. I am a member of the Model T Club of Utah (not a creative name I admit, but effective) I understand it is good to have someone to help, but at the same time I would like to have my own personal knowledge before I feel good about asking, or even knowing the right question to ask. I think having a personal understanding is an important difference between being "driver" and having a real appreciation for anything in life. I will start with buying the book - Thanks for the link! - and if I run into trouble, I know help is not too far away.
so, when he push started, he then drove around with no neutral ? or did the trans break loose once running?
as far as I know, it has never had a real neutral. I asked him once to confirm, but n
he doesn't remember.
Do you have Service Bulletin Essentials? Assuming the clutch disc have not eaten into the brake drum real bad I would follow the advice previously given and ensure the low pedal link is correctly adjusted as well as the clutch arm adjust bolt.
Often, the low pedal will have a ton of wear to the point the hole for the linkage needs welded closed and re-drilled.
Once all that is good and you have switched to a light oil and it still won't disengage high you will have to pull it as you would likely at that point have clutch disc hung up. This would require transmission tear down and replacement of the brake drum. Try the external adjustments first per the Service Bulletins. That info is also in the black book (Ford Bible).