I thought long and hard before I had the guts to cut this tank. Used lacquer thinner and then water and could still see crud. Finely got the courage and found a brown dirt like coating in some areas over a 1/4 inch thick. Was surprised to see the two cross baffles, use a sawzall to cut them and then folded them to clean behind them. Used a pressure blaster with two 1/4 inch street L's and a homemade tip to turn the sand back to clean under the lip. My question; what is the best sealer to use? I have a quart of Bill Hirsch, is there a better product? My plans to paint the sealer with a brush to within about a inch of the weld, let it dry and then weld the hole up, using heat sinks, and then pour the sealer in and coat the last side. I'm sure open to ideas, got to do this on a 27 tank also. Thanks in advance, Bob.
I('ll let others warn you about welding on ANY gas tank, vapors stay in crevices even after blasting. BUT, you do need to really re-solder and seal the carb adjusting knob bracket and especially the steering column bracket. These are notorious for developing leaks after the car is nicely restored!
Bob, you might check on the net, but I think caswell or some one makes a two part sealer that is impervious to any chemical when dried. I am soon going to need some on my project. Some of the sealers will dissolve with more than 10% methanol or MEK. KGB
I have always used POR gas tank sealer. It is available on e-bay in kit form or just the sealer. I would suggest to not paint it on and then weld. I do not see any avantage to that. The purpose of a sealer is to give a continuous coat to the inside. I would highly suggest to do a acid etch to the inside of the tank after you weld it back together. The acid is part of the kit. The sealers prefer a slightly acidic surface to adhere well. When you do the sealer slush be prepared to spend at least four hours with the tank. Slush it very well turning it slowly to every position you can, and then do it a little more Then pour all the extra sealer out into a canning jar, and use a good lid. You can reuse it later. Then spend the rest of the 4 hours or longer turning the tank and looking inside to make sure you have no big sags or puddles. I have sealed close to a dozen tanks with the POR products and have yet to have one fail... Its all in the prep work and procedures you use....