engine is out, flywheel is off. on page 34 of the electrical club manual they say to lay the coil on the magnets (with polarity correct) hook up 6v and then tap with a hammer???? i have a hard time thinking a hammer is a good electrical tool, and what is "taping" doing? could some one explain this process further. thanks, clayton
Tapping with a hammer put the + and - electromagnetic particles in the proper order for perfect harmony!
I don't really know but I have seen that also.
If you are going to do the recharge using the coil ring you will need at least 36 volts to get a good zap. I have done a couple this way and while it's not as good as one at a time, it does work.
Mark, i was puzzled by the voltage too. they say 36 volts to do it in the car, and only 6 volt when laying the coil rite on the magnets. also, 36 v it says "flash"the connection, and for 6v hook it up, not flash.
Which book do you have? I used as I said, 36 V and zapped them. I didn't read the Club booklet that close and just did it the same way as for in car.
While I am not volunteering, there is some info in the Club how to books that could use some updating.
Bring your magnets up here and we'll recharge them on a magnet recharger, which is much better then that method.
True but if you know your magnets are good (been checked and found crack free) and everything is setup for height sometimes it's better to let the sleeping dog lie. If yours has aluminum spools they really should be replaced along with the brass screws if you tear it down, then you still need to set the magnet height.
brass spools, i was planning to leave it all together. Andy, yes its better and thanks for the offer. i was thinking if tapping is good, then i'll really whack em and that should be better!!!
Don't whack too hard, the steel in the magnets is kind of brittle. You may want to change the brass screws while the engine is apart since they crystallize with use and may lose their head at inconvenient times.
just kidding on whacking them Roger, just using the "if a little is good, more is better" theory. i would like to try this without taking it all apart though. google searches mostly bring doing it in the car, or apart, not all together and using the coil ring as a contact
Biggest concern is a cracked magnet, best way to tell is only when it is disassembled.
I am working on rebuilding my engine and I would like to make a recharging station for the magnets I want to recharge each magnet does any one have plans or know were I could find them
Here is a link to Steve Jelf's how-to:
While building my 15, I placed the coil on the magnets and pulled the golf cart up to it and flashed it and rotated it several times with 48V. After the 1st flash, it took a prybar to separate the file coil from the magnets. Been almost 3 years and all is still well.
My thinking is that you have it almost completely apart now. Why not take Andy up on his offer and do the job right? There is no way to effectively clean and check the magnets without removing them from the flywheel. Andy has the tools and knowledge to charge your magnets and help you set up and static balance your flywheel.
Andy and I each made our magnet chargers using Dave Gingery plans that used to be available from Lindsay's Technical Books. They're pretty easy to make.
I also made (with help) the above mentioned charger - very efficient and one can verify the integrity of the magnet prior to charging.
You need this!
You could use it for doing one magnet at a time while still attached to flywheel.
ok, here's the follow up. i started out with the flywheel face up on a bucket, then with an extra field coil laying on it i was zapping with 3 12 volt batteries. this motor was bought as a "runner", but was in a power unit, and not run for a long time. the magnets at first had about nothing. the first zap made a huge difference, perhaps may have even run the motor on mag, but i wanted the full deal, to hold up a piston. so i zap a few more times. the problem with my set up is its laying horizontal to zap, then i gotta pick it up and stand it vertical on the edge of an upright 6x6 block to test the strength. after a few times of this, its seems that instead its testing my strength! plus, you are bent over trying to balance the thing on the edge so there is room to test its strength with a weight, all not good. so i decided to go for plan b. after studying all the many post in the forum history i went with the single electromagnet introduced by James Golden, and featured in Steve Jelfs dauntless geezer episode. i made the coil, and then mounted an old transmission shaft on the flywheel, then a piece of pipe in the vice allowed me to easily rotate the wheel, and check the results with a piston with out lifting any thing. i went around twice, one north, one south, and nothing would hold a piston yet, but i soon realized this thing gets hot! silly me i thought i would just hold it, but there is a lot of amps going on here. studying all the post taught me that its the initial jolt that makes it happen, so any long zaps only heat up your coil and dont produce results except heat. so, out the door into the snow bank fixed that. i feel sorry for you guys that live where there is no ice to cool your parts, it must really slow down the progress! as i went along i could mark the good ones, and double zap the weak ones, and finally had all that would hold up a piston. i never did do the individual ends of the magnet as in Steves procedure, but that would have been next if needed. i like this style charger because it could also be done in the car (with hogs head off)
The "tapping" of the magnets is done after they are zapped. The "tapping" should be done while the magnet is in continuous contact with the recharging system but only momentarily and is done with a piece of hardwood. This is done very quickly as the system will heat up very quickly with 36 volts. It is much easier with two people.