I want to find a bunch of the heavy paper labels that are wired on to parts for identification, or something similar. I want something heavy enough to last, and prefer
Search..... wire labels
Many years ago I bought a life time supply of them from McMaster Carr.
Here you go.
Uline does have great tags with wire to attach them with.
Check your business paper supply house. You should be able to get them there. The box we got, you have to tie on the wires and are blank and are about 2 X 3.
You can buy shipping tags from OfficeDepot or OfficeMax.
Don't ask me why I know this but be very careful with what you use to write on the tags. I tore down a early Ford some 25 years ago and attached a tag to every part. I filled out the tags with a Bic pen. Now I have nice parts with blank tags attached to them!
John P Steele,
I looked at your profile and am having trouble finding your city on the Montana map!
I went to the local office supply store and bought the 2x3 tag with the wire on like Mark did. It took me several years to complete my rebuild and I would suggest that if you are going to be a while doing your rebuild that you use ball point pen and cover the lettering with scotch tape to protect your markings. Also it is best if you store the tags out of the light to help keep them from fading. I learned this lesson the hard way.
Another tip when rebuilding is to use a large fishing tackle box with all the dividers in it to hold all your small parts and screws. I labeled each small bin with the parts ID and car location (ie..Drivers door top hinge screw) etc. I also use egg cartons to hold screws, nuts, bolts, they are easy to stack and label. Great for breakables like light bulbs. I also use the small divided plastic boxes 1"H x 8"W x 11"L that you get at the discount store to carry screws, nuts, bolts etc in the car because they fit under the seat.
Gary- go to Uline.com- they have industrial grade tags- including ones with a foil face that never fade.
Local mom & pop office supply. Why pay shipping? Support local business when you can.
I agree with Paul about what you write with. Ball point ink fades over time, and felt marker fades fast. Pencil lasts. I use #1, which is a little softer than the #2 commonly available. And while we're on markings that don't last, Avery peel and stick labels and reinforcement rings dry out and fall off. I have notebook pages reinforced with lick & stick rings fifty or more years ago, and they're still good. The modern rings may last a couple of years if you're lucky.
You can also go all out and get Ford script part tags!
I was going to include a link to similar ones - I'm lucky enough to have acquired a stash of original tags.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-25-NEW-FORD-OLD-STYLE-SCRIPT-PARTS-TAGS-EARLY-DES IGN-CAR-TRUCK-TRACTOR-/301473334581?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash= item4631360535&vxp=mtr
Bob's is a much better deal !
Ok, checked all the different suppliers and learned a bit about the different thicknesses and sizes. Seems like there are 2 common thicknesses, 10 and 13 pt, although more are listed. I found a seller on eBay and got 1000 of the heavy ones, prewired, for $37 delivered, aprox 3 1/4 x 1 7/8, standard size is 3.
Really glad for the tip on the BIC pen, I'll be sure to use Sharpie!
Even Sharpies fade over time. I agree with Steve, Use a pencil if it needs to last for years.
And sometimes if they come into contact with grease or oil they wick that up and disintegrate the writing on them.
It is an extra step, but when I use tags for work on engine cores, I wrap the tag front and back with clear packing tape to seal it, overlapping the edges and making the tape bigger than the tag--almost laminating it if you will. That keeps it from fading or going anywhere when next to old grease parts.
Good suggestion, Chad !
Here's some NOS Ford tags.
I like those NOS tags...got the proper Ford script on them. Where do you get them (if possible) and what would they cost?
As far as I know, these are not available or reproduced exactly as mine are as I believe due to Ford script copyright laws, something has to be changed in the script- either a letter or the F tail or something. You can clearly see the difference in the script of mine and the reprinted ones and mine have the printer's name on the glue ring.
Chad is right about oil obliterating the writing. That's why the tag in my picture is written in pencil. It lasts permanently and oil doesn't destroy it. In fact, that tag in the picture is oil-soaked and the writing is still there.
The very best tags are those used in the nursery industry. They are thin brass and wire on. You write on them with a ballpoint pen and your writing becomes 3 dimensional. Our local machine shop uses them on stuff which goes in the hot tank. Impervious even to that treatment.
Alan from down under.
Lot's of good suggestions, I'll use them. Thanks!
Here is a classic....paid too much...
Here's what the Coroner uses.
Funny Jay !!!
This thread brings to mind the story of NASA in the 1960's. They allegedly spent $5 million developing a pen that would write in zero gravity. The Russians used a pencil.
It's a false story. NASA didn't develop the pen.
Motorcraft still makes tags too, they aren't red anymore. A Ford dealer should have them, the crane company I used to work for used them for everything. But now that I work in a Ford R&D facility, we use the generic ones like the coroners do. Go figure.