I painted a mini bike frame about 3 weeks ago with a new Rustoleum color, Lagoon, that I bought at Walmart. It is not a large scale restoration,just something i am fixing up for fun. Anyway the can said that I could re-coat after 24 hours. I was out of clear the day I painted the frame and picked up a can when I went to town the next day. I waited the 24 hours and went to spray some clear on it, a perfect paint job, and the clear wrinkled the entire thing in about 15 seconds. This frame was in my shop that never gets below 55-60 degrees and should have been cured as the directions said.
I looked at the can of clear and it said 48 hours before re-coat!:>0
I was like really peod.
I kept my cool but emailed Rustoleum about this. I got a check for the cost of the can of clear and can of paint that got messed up.
And they also mentioned in the email they would look into the wording on the cans as to when to re-coat with what.
So it pays to mention problems we have with a product to the manufacturer.
It's always safer with can sprays to wait 3-4 days and sun bake them. I used to do a lot of gas pumps with them.
Was the clear coat lacquer????? Not good.
After trying to paint the second color on a license plate three times with paint the crinkling each time I now wait at least three days at room temp before applying the second color. Two light coats of the same color a few minutes apart is OK.
I thought their cans said recoat within an hour or after either 48 or 72 hours---at least the ones I use say that. Anyhow, I wonder if they incompatable paints, I always have decent luck with Rustoleum, but that recoat period must be paid attention to or what you had happen will result---it happened to me too.
I even resprayed stuff a week or two after and sometimes still had it wrinkle and lift. I blame it on the crap chemicals they have to use nowadays.
Overall though, they still make a decent product.
Had that happen to me on some parts. Spoke to a paint guy at a body shop and he said the crinkle is caused by the vehicle still coming out of the first paint. Guess a lot depends on how thick the original coat is and what the temperature is. So, now I use very thin coats and wait 24 hrs and never paint if the object is cooler than 65 degrees.
I have had that exact same problem, but only with Rustoleum. No matter how long you waited, the same exact thing happened, it wrinkled up. All the cans I had said recoat within 1 hour or after 24. I solved the problem pretty easily though, I stopped using Rustoleum. Now I just use the Dupli-Color from the local auto parts store
They don't have to use the "crap chemicals", they choose to use them. Personally, I wouldn't paint my garbage cans with Rustoleum but folks either sware by it or sware at it. I'm with the latter.
Every time I hear they've changed the formula, I try a can but it has never failed to live up to my opinion of it--It's just crappy paint with marketing clout. It takes weeks or months to fully cure. And you'll have another birthday go by before it's cured if you used more than one coat.
I get Dupli-Color by the case through NAPA for rattle-can stock colors
I use Rustoleum all the time for chassis parts. They get a second coat within an hour, then they go in the oven. No problems so far.
There are other high (not high build primers) pigment enamel mineral based paints that do the same thing because of the same reason, the vehicle have not left the first coat even after 72 hours. I think it's a combination of paint thickness on the piece, temp., and humidity. I tend to be a little heavy handed when it comes to laying paint down, can or brush any way.
This sheet for the Gloss black Professional paint states re-coat after 1 hour or 48 hours.
http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/ English/CBG/Professional/PRO-01_0313_PRO_TDS_Professional_Enamel_Sprays_Technica l_Data_Sheet.ashx
You did not say if the clear coat was the same paint, re-coat means to use the same paint by my thinking.
The problem could be the paint base is an air dry enamel. These paints rely on oxygen in the air to harden. This is why they get a skin on the paint in the tin if it is not a rattle can version.
If you apply too much thickness the top dries and prevents the underneath from curing as the oxygen is sealed off.
If you then apply more material the solvent used to thin the paint to allow it to be sprayed attacks the skin which wrinkles the old surface.
Leave it longer to dry, only apply no more than 3 light coats leaving each to dry between coats. You can always apply more coats you can't take them off as easily.
If the color is solid (Black, red etc) not a color with metallic flake don't apply any clear, clear is an inferior finish to a pigmented color.
I had the same problem with Black Rustoleum professional spray paint over the Christmas holidays when I made a piano bench for my wife.
I was working in a cool basement.
The first coat went on OK but when I did the second one it wrinkled.
I sanded things smooth and tried again. It was worse.
I smoothed it out again, waited 3 days, and sprayed it again. More wrinkles!
I sanded it again, brought it upstairs so it would get warm, waited 2 days, and tried again. More wrinkles.
Sanded it again, waited a week and sprayed it a third time. This time there were only a few wrinkles so I brought it upstairs and plan to wait at least a month before touching it again.
I used a bunch of sandpaper.
They made a formula change and I dont think it is working well.The new color I used, Lagoon,was bought at wally world on december 20th. It says best i can remember 24 hours, I will check the can again to confirm, the clear,was rustoleum bought from Ace hardware and it said 48. Confusing.
I found Rustoleum to be the least forgiving paint I've ever used. Weeks after curing, it would lift and wrinkle after applying a re-coat. Absolute junk. I use Krylon Fusion and have been very happy with it.
This is Jason from Rust-Oleum. I've been reading the board and saw that there were concerns about wrinkling top coats. Peter Kableís post above is exactly right. Alkyd paint in general needs to fully cure before top coating. Peterís recommendation to apply light coats is good. If at all possible, apply multiple light coats within an hour of the first coat. If you canít do it all at once, make sure the first coat cures at a temperature above 65 degrees (including overnight). The majority of our paints can be recoated after 48 hours, but cooler temperatures, or heavier coats can extend the recoat time. A cool basement, like Fredís mentioned above, may be a little too cool. If thatís the case, additional time should be given before applying a second coat. And definitely do not sand the first coat before applying the second. Itís not necessary and makes potential wrinkling worse. Rust-Oleum continuously works to make our products better. Those updates may change how you apply the product Ė like not sanding between coats. Be sure to always read the directions Ė from any coatings manufacturer Ėfor the best outcome.
If you ever have a doubt, feel free to contact our customer service team at 800-481-4785. I have to say, my team is really impressed with your projects!
Rust-Oleum Product Support
Good to hear from a company that cares. Thanks
Well,I must admit,I appreciate the fact someone came on here to communicate with us directly.Thanks.
The truck in my profile, well, Rustoleum is what you see thru out!
I use a lot of Rust-Oleum, I like it.
I never buy the new water based stuff, I only buy Rust-Oleum that says OIL BASE on the front of the can.
The first coat should be VERY thin. Let it dry 15 to 30 minutes, give it a second medium coat, then you can spray it again with a medium to light coat after 30 minutes or a little longer.
best to wait until the next day for the third coat, if you can.
I find one thin coat, 15 or 20 minutes later give it a final coat and leave it along for 12 hours or more and then use or install the part.