Access to #4 rod with counter balanced crankshaft

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Access to #4 rod with counter balanced crankshaft
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 07:22 pm:

As I mention on another thread, I have to replace the piston rings on the speedster. Access to the connecting rods one thru three is no problem but I am concerned about the access to #4 due to the counter weights of the scat crankshaft.
Has anyone actually done this?
Do I have to removed the motor ( yet again) ?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Bender Tulsa Oklahoma on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 - 06:26 am:

Depends, three or four dip pan. Four dip pan, not a problem, good luck on a three dip, it should be an interesting journey.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 - 10:56 am:

If you have a 3 dip pan, you could try it. If not able to do it, the engine will need to come out. You won't really lose anything if you try, but I know it is hard with a stock crankshaft when you have a 3 dip pan. Good luck. See you tonight, Tony.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 - 01:56 pm:

The engine has a three dip crankcase and it has an oil dam under #4 rod. This morning I did get #4 piston out but I doubt I'll get it back in with everything in the correct position.
Plan to think about it for 24 hours and then decide how to proceed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 - 02:27 pm:

Any kids or women in the family with smaller fingers that can start the nuts on the bolts, after that maybe it's only a question of the right tool - and the right position(s) of the crankshaft?

(Got standard cranks so I haven't tried it myself, just speculating)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Thursday, January 15, 2015 - 12:24 pm:

Well on Thursday morning I laid under the speedster and got oily wet. I removed the inspection plate, then soaked the oil from behind the dam. With the piston half way down and the rod on the camshaft side I could loosen one nut then moving the crank half a turn loosen the other nut. Then I got my fingers in and removed the nuts, however I could not get my hand out without letting go of the nut.... So I dropped the nuts into the dam and then fished them out. The washers, oil pickup and cap then also fell into the dam and I fished them all out.
There is no way in hell I can get them back, so the motor will be out this weekend.....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Thursday, January 15, 2015 - 12:30 pm:

Tony, Find a Volvo guy. I worked on Volvo,s for 8 years at a dealership. I can now get to anything and do anything with my eyes closed. For you cant see what you are doing on those cars. The 4 cylinder sits at an angle and the fuel system and the turbo are under everything. Good luck, Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Thursday, January 15, 2015 - 12:40 pm:

Tony, I can't tell you how I did the same job with mine but I was able to get the cap, dipper, shims, and nuts back on in mine several months ago.
I have a Bill Dubats crank and also an oil dam for the fourth rod. Consider using some dental floss to tie everything together, prayer might also help.
I don't exactly remember how your hands compared to mine but you might consider having someone else with a smaller more flexible hand and fingers try before pulling the engine just to get those nuts back on.

It can be done... I've done it Good Luck you'll need it but don't give up to quick.

Thank God or the guy who installed them for those dams to catch the parts!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Thursday, January 15, 2015 - 03:39 pm:

Woo Tony - if you've gone ahead and pulled then engine then it's a moot point. But, I am LOATHE to do that. It sure seems like if you go the crank to the same angle as Mike's first picture, where the 4th con-rod cap is more up, you could guide it up in there and then hold it in place with a skinny rod. It would probably help to have an extra set of hands with you. After that it'd be a matter of a short socket on a stiff (not floppy) U-joint with a long extension. Once you get one nut on you're home free. Where there's a will there's a way! =) Good luck whatever you end up doing.


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