I Have a 1914 left differential housing that needs fixing. I have all the rivets out, but can't get the two castings apart. Are they soldered together? And will a propane torch be hot enough? Or are they just stuck together. I know Allen Bennett Did some of these. I read all the threads but can't find how to get them apart.
Probably just caked up old oil & grease. Heat it with a propane torch to melt the gunk and it should separate.
Aren't the riveted areas brazed? You'll need more than a propane torch.
Mine wasn't - just years of hardened crud.
They may well be bronze welded, an aftermarket repair to stop leaks. Best of luck if they are. Otherwise, they may just be stuck as others say. If you do have to resort to heat to get it apart, be sure to check it out for warpage before rebuilding. They can be corrected, but it takes a special tool to hold the casting and perhaps a custom bronze thrust.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
It shouldn't take enough heat to warp anything. Just enough to melt old grease.
Solder was rarely ever used. It doesn't stick well to the cast iron parts. Originally, the center "pumpkin" and axle tubes were not brazed on the '13/'14 housings. However, many, many, repairmen did braze either or both around (or over) the rivets and/or between the cast "pumpkin" and steel tubes. If they have been brazed very much, they can be very difficult to get them apart (depending totally upon the quality and depth of brazing). If the brazing is mostly on the surface only, usually, warm the whole thing, then really heat a small area and clean it with a good wire brush. Work your way around. If the brazing did not penetrate very much (it usually doesn't), that will usually work without too much trouble. (It does really ruin a wire brush, however) It also takes a fairly large acetylene torch or other heat (like a forge) to get the brass hot enough long enough to clean away.
If the housings have not been brazed? A good hair dryer might be enough heat. A little solvent might also help things to separate. Do be careful of fire regardless of what you do. And wire-brushing molten brass? Be careful what that splatters onto also.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Wayne, that's not true, solder sticks to cast iron just as good as brazing, soldering just requires less heat and is not as strong. Radiator spouts have been cast iron for over 100 years, even the bottom one on a T.
Thanks to all who posted here to help. Steve, you were right when you said lots of hardened crud. I should never have cleaned it so good when I rebuilt it last year. 100 year old grease had it sealed up. Now the big question, can I get it resealed? I'm going to use Loctite and button bolts. Thanks again. Howard
I went through this exercise a couple years ago and I also used button bolts & loktite but I can't remember if I used black RTV or #2 Permatex to smear around the halves prior to bolting it back together - no leaks (yet) !