Went after Dad's rat's nest today (Bless his heart) It has had me nervous for some time.
Installing new switch harness
WIRED seems the new loom that I got 2yrs ago colores off a little 2 unmarked black wires and a green that didn't match the schematics.
Will install tomorrow and start on the main lighting loom.
I drove mine to Sam's to pick up a few groceries and stuff. It was a great day for it! Starting to get some nice weather now.
That's what I here from KC Mike.
I didnt do anything today, but this weekend I am going to restore this little brass plate for my 14 coilbox I am working on! I finally found an original one, so I can ditch my repro!
Now if I can just find an original flat top for my 13/14 coilbox.......
Nice plate. Don't forget the after pic.
What is there to restore? Install it and go; Ford didn't paint them.
Rebuild a few coils and a coil box.
Yes! These are my absolute favorite threads. I was going to start it today if no one else had. Will post pictures later but I've been polishin' brass, and polishin' brass, and for a break I polished some more brass.
Put it in the trailer for a trip to Ft,Myers to see Mom
Walked by the car, squeezed the rubber bulb to blow the horn, smiled.
Putting the engine back in my 26 after doing something stupid and having to take it out.
Walked past all 4 of them wishing I could go for a drive but knowing I had three down trees to finish cleaning up before going razor clam digging.
Thank gawd for hydraulics! (tree stuff)
Trying to save this door. I have better panels but this is right for my '14. I'm stubborn.
The weather in Hillsboro today is sunny with a high temperature near 50 degrees F, so I removed the front part of the side curtains and went for a drive in my 1924 cut off touring.
Been rebuilding several G carburetors, an NH, and an odd-ball carter non-T style that looks like it might be fun to try on the T.
16 degrees with a very strong north wind and several snow squalls. So, I looked out the window at the little red barn thinking that the car was safe, clean but cold. I stayed by the wood stove.
Got the windows all installed in the 26 Canadian Fordor. Now can finish the upholstery panels and getting much closer to finished!
I remanufactured my External alternator to fit on my 16 speedster. A lot of hacksawing and grinding, not to mention rubbing control rod on outside oiler. Exchanged 3 grooved belt at Napa. I spent 2 hours warming up my metal garage, so I could do all this winter work. Next undertaking is to find a belt to run the fan and wire it up with an amp gauge. I also replaced my New Day repro with a used older one I found on eBay. I think I may wait till the temperature is near 40 degrees rather than 20 degrees. So that's my T day.
Been busy building a wooden "tool box" for my '23 Doodlebug. It will really hold/hide my battery, and then a small compartment for tools and misc. items.
Fixing a hole in the outer casting of my axle housing and putting it back together. Hoping for no leaks this time.
It was in the 50's and sunny yesterday, so I took the T out for a spin. Just blew off work and drove around all afternoon, got back to the shop about dark. It has been so cloudy and dreary here for so long that I couldn't resist! It's sunny and even warmer today, so I think I'll do it again. I'll call a couple of T buddies and see whether they want to take a drive.
Wish you were here, Paul!
It was in the 50 and pouring rain so I took my T for a drive. Did about 40 miles. With my rain gear on was not too bad. Traffic in Portland OR was bumper to bumper so the T just putted along! The ruff bit of the trip was the cars passing on the left spraying rooster tails through the open door and water coming through the crack between the wind shield half's. Going out in a little bit and get the shop warmed up, got a Ruckstell to get to work on.
I swapped a leaky radiator peacock with a brand new used one I found in my father in laws stuff when we cleaned out his house. So far, no drips....
Took it to the annual club safety inspection. Sunny and probably in the low 70's. It's amazing how much better you can see and work when the car's up on a lift. And the perfect day for a drive. Drove for a bit alongside a bunch of street rods and other colorful cars that were having some kind of caravan. They probably thought I was part of their shindig, but my car is older than any of theirs I saw, and certainly not some Ford/C%#vy hermaphrodite.
I bought a running board rack and wicker magazine basket on T-bay last week and installed them on my 1924 cut-off Touring car today. The basket is woven around a wire frame and has sturdy handles for pulling it up out of the rack.
The sun finally came out and it was 53 today in Denver. Drove the 26 Coupe to Lowe's and then to the Smiling Moose Deli for a Ruben.
Started to reassemble the rear-end after initially tearing it down to check what was in there for thrust bearings, and also had a wobbly axle that was annoying the people driving behind me.
Once apart found that it did indeed have the new trust washers, but the ring gear was badly worn probably due to the 0.035 ring/pinion clearance. Installed new ring/pinion, new axle's and a F/P pinion spool. Hopefully will be all set for many happy miles ahead.
Picked up parts for the sawmill.
Went to breakfast with the Model T Awful Waffle gang, Started the Runabout and put air in the tires. Battery won't take a charge so I guess I get a new battery Monday. Jay of Northern California was there as was Dick Eddinger and his wife, and Milt Webb and about 15 other T'ers. I had to leave early.
I fitted the floating hub bearings and their carriers into the hubs of the Hayes wire wheels for my roadster. The socket head cap screws use the same holes as the original rivets.I machined the knurling and the lettering off the heads and will fill the hex holes prior to painting.
I also laced the spokes into the felloes, but the threads were not long enough to be able to tension them up, so, back to the spoke maker for correction.
Allan from down under.
The last of my parts that I ordered last week cam in on Friday. I'll order more tomorrow. Some progress all week but today got far enough that I started it twice. Bolted in the battery carrier and the new battery cables. The nuts on the switch are good so didn't need the new repo ones that are under size. With no water in the block I only let it run a few minutes. First time running rich and adjusted the car closer to smooth, second even more. Found the spark rod movement was greater than the amount of advance. This because of the lever on the end of the steering column rod was flopping around like crazy. With the fan arm off tomorrow I'll be able to mess with the timing from the front of the engine. Moved a few of the wires on the thermal block to lay better. Rewired the horn button, repo wires are to long and will just live with it for now as I'm not taking the switch apart, it was a bugger to get back together. Removed the headlight reflectors and tomorrow look in my stash for better. Made a list of some more parts I need to order tomorrow. In some ways this is my first model T as my touring I got from my folks.
I wasted over an hour trying to start the roadster. Tried two different carburetors, choked five or six times before turning on the ignition, tried different carb adjustments from one turn out to two full turns, squirted in starting fluid, checked timing, checked plugs for firing, put my hand over the intake with the carb off to determine that it was trying to draw, etc., etc. It fired briefly a few times, but died before I could even start to move toward the spark lever. I thought maybe I flooded it, but even with all the extra choking the plugs were dry. Mighty annoying.
I was going to drive my T to the store to pick up a few things. Last time I drove it, I was wishing I had installed the fold-down running board rack I have had for some time, so I could carry some large packages. So I dug through my stuff and found the rack, and began putting it on the car. One of the running board clamp bolts was rusted, so I got my oil can full of 50:50 penetrant mix and squirted it with that. It tightened up just fine after that, and I got all my stuff together to take a drive.
Started 'er up and began to back out of the shop, when something felt funny, as if I had run into something. Got out, looked all around and under the car, it all looked fine. Then I noticed the left front tire was low. I walked around to check it, and the (penetrant) oil can was sticking out of the tire! I had backed over it, and that pointed spout had punctured the tire and tube. So I took the (clincher) rim and tire off and broke it down, and took the tube out. The puncture is very small, so it's fixable. I decided to wait until Monday and take it to a tire shop to get it patched, since it's one on which I will be driving thousands of miles. I have some tube-patching materials which I carry in my tool box, but I've never had to use them, so I thought it would be better to let the pro's fix this one.
Not too bad, all in all; I'm glad it happened at my shop where I have all the equipment to deal with it conveniently. I'll be back on the road tomorrow.
Steve I can surely sympathize with your plight on the Roadster. I have been trying to get my engine started for three days. I am certainly getting a lot of good help and suggestions from this forum. Good luck. Harv
Steve -- If the car has been sitting for a while without running, it might be that the gas has gone bad. I start the engine in my Coupelet chassis and run it every now and then, but it had been a while since I tried it last. I just finished removing the carb and going thru it. (The gas I drained from the tank smelled terrible.) The float needle was stuck closed, not letting any gas into it. I disassembled all of it, soaked it in carb cleaner overnight, and put it back together. The sediment bulb and gas line seemed to be OK. I'll not add any gas to the system until I'm ready to run it again, and I'll add some MMO or 2-stroke oil to it when I do. That seems to make a difference.
Just went back and looked up when I bought that gas. August 20. I have a hard time believing that in five months it would go so bad that it won't start an engine at all. Those dry plugs are haunting me. They suggest fuel starvation, but what could be causing it has me mystified.
I have been working on an engine for a friends, today it is virtually complete, Here are a couple of pictures.
Tony, I've gotta ask, why all the plumbing on the inlet?
From the Dykes book. 'quote'
'In order that there may be as little resistance as possible to the flow of the mixture, this manifold should be as straight as position of the carburetor will permit.There should be no sharp angle bends, the bends being as flat and easy as possible and the distance from carburetor to inlet ports as short as possible to prevent condensation.'
Steve -- In my case, the bad gas was causing the float valve to stick closed. That's what I thought might be going on with your car.
Yep, a stuck float valve would do it, but both carburetors I tried seemed to have plenty of gas in the bowl.
Hi : To day I bring up the Adjusting rod to the Dash panel, and mount a ball valve.
Thanks to a reminder from Mark Strange that the new rings may not be seated yet, I pulled the plugs, squirted a little oil in each cylinder, replaced the plugs, and started the car with no trouble. I noticed a ding ding ding from the fan hitting the ratchet, so I shut it off, got on the phone to Langs, and ordered the next longer belt.
My other T chore today was fixing a Holley NH with an occasionally sticking float valve. I sorted through a box of carb parts and found a needle that looks like stainless and installed it in place of the viton-tipped sticking one.
Started getting a years worth of dust off my "new" '13 that followed me home over the weekend, and began polishing brass. Right now looks better in the pics, but I'll get it up to par. I hope.
Letting my new slot head wood screws soak in some crazy concoction to age them before I install them.
Other than that, back to work on these old muscle cars to make some more T money.
"....and mount a ball valve....."
Sometime when you have time, would you post a close-up of how you fastened the long rod to the ball valve handle?
I can't quite see how you fastened the rod so securely that it does not twist off.
Disregard the previous request....
at first I thought the ball valve had an extension handle going through the dashboard. Upon closer examination, I see that what I thought was a shut off extension is really the choke rod.
Too busy having fun to take pictures, but my daughter and I took the '14 out for a spin this afternoon. We were so excited to have 35 deg. temp in January, that we couldn't help ourselves.
I cleaned the soot from my "new" Corcoran lamps and put them on the dash I built just to see what it looks like. I can't wait to put the old girl back together this spring/summer! Thanks again, Jeff, for the good trade!
BTW, Tim, I'd love to see more pics of your new acquisition! Where did you find the '13? I guess you'll be selling that '12 to make room????
Yesterday removed mismatched headlights with fluted lenses on the '20 and replaced with matched set headlights with clear lenses. T looks wide-eyed now.
Bill, I'll e-mail ya! And, heck NO, I'll NEVER sell "Pete"!!! Even if I have to have a neighbor come crank him for me!! I am trying to sell the firetruck though, need the room!
Today the fellow helping me redo our speedster brought over the painted wheels and one bucket seat. he also brought the metal for the cowl. I started building the base for the bucket seats.
Chased down a diode for my Alternator wire . Need to splice into the wire in-line. What a bear to find.
Finished staining my battery box I made for the doodlebug. Seat is done too, though not as happy with that, but I am not going to strip it back down now.
Now I need to decide if I should spar finish them or put them to use for a year unprotected in the weather to make it a bit more of an authentic look.
A couple of days ago we officially Finished the 12 T Rebuilt front axle, new turn signal set up,overhauled the engine re broken crank, new doubled up wish bone. Now we are working on the side curtains. Cheers Colin
I took a drive in my T on a pretty, sunny day. I took a friend to see a T another friend has for sale in the next town over. He likes it a lot and the cash and title will soon be changing hands. Got another one hooked!
Today I cut the foam for the seat bottoms and will let the vinyl warm up in the house today before stapling it. The electric knife cut it with ease, even around the curved portion.
So Dennis, does Dena know you used that knife to cut foam?
Yes, she approved. Actually she took the photo. She is very understanding. I have 4 painted wheels with tires in our dining room. One seat in her office along with a rear bumper for our 1958 Thunderbird. We are planning on storing the fenders in our dining room until we are ready to install them. I am one lucky guy.
I fit the rear fenders on my speedster project.
I built the permanent floor boards for the speedster. They are the ones in front of the seat that screw down to the main sills. I used the wood that did not quite clean up in the plaining, or maybe had a knot in them. I had better wood to use but I feel like originally, the floorboards would have not been the best of the wood. They are good solid boards, but have a few knots and saw marks showing. The center strip is offset to the drivers side on purpose. It is the strip that the 8 X 11 inch battery box will rest on. So it needed to be 8 inches from the right sill. The seat frame is finished and only needs the last coat of kwik-poly. So all that's left of the inside body wood is the floor board risers, and two strips down each side in front of the permanent floor boards. Then the seat upholstery tack strip around the top of the body. It is amazing how many straight slot wood screws I have used. I used 72 in the rear deck and gas tank saddle and trunk framing. I used 36 in the seat frame, and I think it was over 30 more today in the permanent floor boards. That is a lot of counter sinks, pilot holes, and shank holes to drill.
I have been working on my gas and kerosene lamps today. Weather outside is cold (50's) and rainy.
I wanted to compare the 5/8 cubic foot per hour acetylene burners with the 3/4 cfh. I had seen a comment some time ago that the 3/4's were so much brighter than the 5/8's.
I set the acetylene flame with a small flow valve at each headlight.
I light the acetylene last to keep the heat down. The bonnets stay cooler while the car is moving.
Button up the doors and ready to go.
Probably won't photograph very good but this is my third try at getting the photos small enough. I hope they don't look like postage stamps. I couldn't tell any difference between the 5/8's and 3/4's. Anyway, let's see if it posts. I cannot get more than two photos to load. How do y'all do that?
Ken in Texas
Ken, when you first "preview" a post with more than two pictures, the extra pictures may not show up, or will only show up as symbols. If you refresh the page, the extra pictures will show up in the preview. Usually I don't bother even refreshing the page, if I can see that the extra pictures show up as symbols I know that they will appear correctly when I do the final "post" of the message.
Thank you very much. The total can't be more than 200, correct? I saw the symbols but I didn't know the pics were there. I see some of the posts are edited. Do you know how that is done?
I've never tried more than six in a post, so I don't know what the real limit is, maybe Chris Brancaccio knows?
Regarding editing posts, if you log in to your profile, you will see a list of your most recent posts. Posts that you can edit will have a pencil and an "edit" icon next to them. Click on the "edit" icon and you will be able to edit your post. I will post this, then edit it to add a screenshot to it showing the "edit" icon.
Text added via Edit function: Hmmmm, looks like editing doesn't support adding a picture, so I'll have to create a new post with a screenshot of the list of recent posts.
(Message edited by cudaman on January 23, 2015)
Here is a new post with a screenshot of my profile added to show the list of recent posts:
To day I mount the Toolbox on the Running board.
I love that toolbox! What is the extra little "chimney" for on the top?
p.s. I also love the wooden shoe wheel chocks!
(Message edited by cudaman on January 24, 2015)
I made a little side mount to carry my acetylene tank on the running board this week. I already carry a battery on the running board and rather than have the tank block the rear door I stood the "B" tank upright.
Everything fastens down to a 2" x 8" x 44-3/4" pine base attached with bolts through the factory running board holes. No need to drill a bunch of holes through an original running board.
The mount is simple enough to make. It takes about two hours after three trips to Lowes.
Another view of the old lay down brackets.
I attached the bracket to the base with lags and the top is attached to the touring 2 bow driver side extension.
The regulator is now just to the left while you are driving. I don't use the regulator but the B Tank shut off is used when you stop. I leave the acetylene regulator set to the first mark which is about 2 pounds I guess. Any adjustment to the flame I make at the headlights with a small flow valve.
I have a safety strap I add around the tank. There is also a "step" under the center of the B tank so it can't move at the tank base.
I do understand this is non-purist but it sure makes running gas headlights easy. Just turn the B tank open 3/4 turn, light driver's light and by the time you light it the passenger light is ready to light. When you park just turn the tank valve off and the lights go out in 15 seconds. You're done.
Anyway, I've had fun doing the gas lights. With carbide at $23.00 a pound from cheapcarbide.com, I can exchange for a full B tank for $23. The MC tanks are about $20 exchange from Airgas.
I do have a beautiful carbide generator but the acetylene tanks let me learn how to set the burner flame, focus the beam, aim the beam left and right/up and down.
I'm spoiled now and understand why there are so many Prest-O-Lite tanks in the old pictures. It's easier!
Ken in Texas
I did nothing to a T today! Thanks to the "Show Us Your Shop" thread I spent all day cleaning the shop...
I did nothing to the t instead I spent the day making whirigigs
Ken -- Is that a '35 ford in the background of your first picture?
Yes, that is a 1935 V8. It is a Cabriolet with a rumble seat. I've had that one for almost 40 years. They have the old 21-stud 85 hp in them.
It's great that you have that rare car, that it has its original engine, and even greater that you've had it for so long. Congratulations on all the above.
I finally got around to fixing the worn out transmission bands.
After reading a bit on the forums I decided removing the hogshead was the way to go. Seemed like such a simple job. Fought with that thing for hours to get it out. The ears wouldn't clear the firewall, then the hogshead wouldn't get past the 4th main. Ended up shifting the rear end back slightly and with some gentle persuasion it came out.
That was enough for one day. Getting it back in can wait for another month.
Haha! Dave I feel your pain. The hogs head itself isn't terribly heavy, but it sure is awkward down in there. Especially with a touring body it's just hard to get down in there like you need to and see everything while you're trying to pick it up. After I did the job one time on my own I decided I would enlist a helper any time I was removing or replacing the hogs head. It's WAY easier with another set of hands - less than half the time when I was doing it solo.
Thank you. It does have the original transmission (that's where the 18's have their VIN)but I had to replace a chipped low gear.
Like the late Model T's, the V8's are stamped on top of the frame rail three times on the driver side. The trans housing has the same number stamped just above the inspection plate. No number on the block which is a departure from the T & A numbering method.
You are correct in that less than about 4,500 of that body style (48-760) were produced in 1935, as I recall. This one came with a 4.11 rear end and really scoots but a 3.78 would be better all round. Has a Philco radio I had repaired last year. Locking steering column, cruise control (throttle) and crank up side windows. Real luxury!
40 years...Sort of like the fellow replied to another that asked "What is your secret to living so long?" The answer was "Don't die." Miss Happiness says they are GONE as soon as the funeral is over.
Frank, Don't know but with the long intake pipes it looks like Tony is trying a tuned impulse manifold design.
After fixing the fan dinging on the ratchet, I squirted oil in the cylinders and started up the roadster. I drove it around the block (2 miles). It did fine, so I drove it around two blocks (another 3 miles). All was going well until I stalled it trying to back up the ramp into the shop. I was too conservative in adjusting the bands and the low and reverse were both too loose. So I took off the cover to adjust. Reverse took two full turns to get it right. While I had the cover off I checked the oil screen.
This is with the screen held up with the sun directly behind it. Over half the holes are closed, and the magnet has a big collection of metal debris. I think before I run the car much more I'd better change the oil.
Had a little down day because of a threat of rain, so cleaned up the house a little vacuumed, took out the trash, repainted my horn. It's a 12v JCW special silvery metal body and cheesy RED plastic horn. Now it looks respectable Also re-crimped and soldered connections.