I have a brass era Model T and I was wondering what was the best brass polish
Try regular lemon juice. You will be amazed.
How do you remove the residual acid? However weak it may be? Water?
PRISM is the best I've found so far, nothing's magic but it sure seems to work better than anything else I've tried....and like many of you, I have the bottles lined up on the shelf....of different kinds of polish..
I use Blue Magic Metal Polish
works GREAT with little elbow grease
Having owned (and constantly polished) seven brass T's in the past 30 years I have found "Haggerty's 100" to work the best for me. Simmichrome seems to aggressive. "Flitz" brand of polish is also very good but very expensive.
Sweat, elbow grease, blood, tears and lemon juice will only get you started.
Find their website here: prismpolish.com
This stuff is absolutely nothing like Brasso, Simichrome, Cape Cod, Mother's, Nevr-Dull, etc.
I've tried them all and Prism Polish is in a class by itself (No, I don't hold stock in the company).
At $2.29 an ounce, Prism had better be good. I suppose I'll have to give it a whirl. It's the only one I haven't tried.
This award winning expert uses Cape Cod polishing cloths on his brass 1911!
Have found this at Walmart too, the cloths are pre-soaked with polish and single use.
I'm lazy, so all I do is mist spray on some CLR before washing the T and hose off.
I found other polishes better at removing tarnish, and Cape Cod good to finish with. It seems to preserve the polished appearance better than the others.
Anyone tried Neverdull ? I used it on my schooner brass in salt water environment for many years. Does a great job.
I've tried Never Dull (no good-they weakened it), Prism, fairly good results Steve, but...I went back to Blue Magic.This rad was fairly well tarnished, er Patina, which I hate. I like 'em shiney! Couple more rounds of it, and it'll be pretty close to perfect.
ive used mothers mag polish it works great
This is just some of the stuff in my cardboard box of polishes, microfiber cloths, cheesecloths, etc. _Not pictured are a few more tubes of snake-oil polish, drill-mounted buffing balls, toilet-bowl cleaner and a ketchup squeeze-bottle. _Now, it's very true that the know-nothing newbie has every reason to shut up, listen and learn from guys like Val, Mike, Hap, Royce, Rob and John (and plenty of others), but when it comes to foolishly spending too much money on trying to find the magic method of quickly and easily polishing a lot of brass, there ain't nobody got me beat. _Nobody. _That's because I'm absolutely, positively the very best at serving as a bad example._
That being said, I occasionally learn from my mistakes. _ No, really.
All of the above pastes and liquids are pretty good products and they do get the job done, but all are beset with certain disadvantages: They're either flammable, toxic or corrosive and they all require copious amounts of elbow grease, time and patience to work. _And most are best used in a well ventilated environment—something that can be hard to come by in the wintertime.
Price-wise, none of them will break you, but I did a little internet research and came up with this:
Simichrome 1.76 oz. $11.95 at Walmart ($6.78 per oz.)
Cape Cod Polishing Cloths (can) $18.99 at Ace Hardware
Mother's Billet Polish 4 oz. $12.00 on Amazon ($3.00 per oz.)
Having used most of what's available, I eventually discovered two products which (in my opinion) work so well, they stand head and shoulders above the rest: English Custom Polish brand's "Metal Polish and Restorer Brass Polish" and "Prism Polish." _While English Custom's product works extremely well and recovers seriously tarnished brass, it is toxic, requires positive ventilation and very, very flammable—to the point where the user need be concerned about spontaneous combustion and used cloths really should be disposed of carefully.
Prism Polish suffers no such disadvantages. _It's non-toxic (I apply the paste with a finger), non-flammable and doesn't have a caustic smell. _And the stuff works like crazy. _On normal, dull brass, it requires about as much effort as cleaning glass with Windex—in other words, not much. _For heavily tarnished brass, a bit more effort is required, but nowhere near as much as with the Brand-X stuff.
At about sixteen bucks a pop, Prism Polish is relatively cheap because a little goes a very long way. _I've polished all my '15 Touring's brass at least four times, done touch-ups year-round, and after two years, my original, 7 oz. jar is still about half-full. _Expensive, it ain't.
People needle me a little because I push this stuff like I own the company or hold stock in it. _I don't. _I'm impressed with Prism Polish because even with three spine surgeries and two artificial knees written up in my personal log, I can do the post-winter, tarnish-removing polish-up of all the brass on my car and the next morning, not feel like it ran me over six times.
$7.00 shipping on Prism, is it available anywhere else other than the website?
From the looks of this post i'm the only one still using Wenol.Bud.
Maas Metal Polish. Non-toxic, no elbow grease, wipes right off, superior results.
Half the price on T-bay ($7.95 for 4 oz tube) as their web-site, free shipping. Also comes in 1.1 lb cans. Lasts forever, great results!
I'll start off by saying I've not used Prism YET but maybe like Bob C I'll try it.
Here's what I've found to be the easiest to bring back some very tarnished brass here close to the coast with that salty afternoon fog.
A product called Brite Boy metal polish from Olde Tyme products in Garland, Tx. 1-800-527-5722. I bought a gallon from the local janitorial supply a couple of years ago and have donated samples to friends and still have quite a bit left.
In my experience this has been the easiest product to use to get a good shine on very dirty brass with not too much work. It does not give me that deep lustre that we like on our brass. For that I use a second polishing with the Mothers Billet or the Blue Magic which is what Brass Works uses. These both leave a coating that keeps the brass good for quite a long time.
Some many of the products we grew up with like the BrassO is no where near the same stuff. The new brasso is like using some mineral sprits or less compared to the original.
This is like what kind of oil but I think I will try some of the Prism just because I have never used it and Bob says so. Hope he's right...
I got aquainted with Brasso while working for the US Govt. (Army) and found that it contains an abrasive, therefore a "scratchless" shine is not achievable.
I have since been using Wenol, with excellent results. When doing heavy, aged (barn fresh) tarnish, I employed my Dremel with small buffer wheel. Good results.
During the present "off season" I'll try jeweler's rouge, and then spray with satin band instrument lacquer.
How do you polish your brass if it has been covered with lacquer? Do you have to remove it or does the simple act of polishing remove the lacquer? Why not polish and put more lacquer on?
Dave you can polish it off with a buffing wheel but the easiest thing is to dip it in lacquer thinner because it is hard to get out of all the nooks and crannies. Some of my lamps were lacquered by a prior owner and I dipped them all. I do not like to lacquer lamps because if you get any breaks in the finish the brass tarnishes and it is impossible to polish plus brass never looks as good when it is coated. There is nothing better than freshly polished brass.
If it has been coated with a clear you Don't Polish, that's the idea the extra cost to coat.
Many of the clear coatings don't quite have the lustre we like to see on freshly polished brass. Then the other problem is when it get dull underneath you must use a paint type remover to get the clear off.
I think the clear coated ones that done by a professional do look pretty good and last quite a long time.
I was talking to Don Boulton once after touring his amazing collection of brass-era cars. We got on the subject of polishing brass. He said with all the cars in his collection, he'd be polishing forever and a day and still be behind. He said he buys a clearcoat made for brass instruments, like trumpets. Keeps the brass shiny for a long time.
let me start by saying,I would never put any clear coating on any brass that I can polish. I do coat
bolts and screws with Brass Lacquer. It will last
about three years,then all you have to do is put them in Lacquer thinner and do them again.
For barn fresh brass,I use a brass and copper cleaner sold by (www.kwick kleen.com). Brush or dip for `10-30 seconds and rinse with cold water.
Be sure to wear rubber gloves and don't let it get
near steel or tin.
AS far as polishing brass that has been cleaned.
I was using Simichrome Polish and finishing it with Cape Cod Polish.
Since I heard about Prism Polish, I have been using it and Putting Cape Cod on after. Cape Cod helps the brass to stay bright longer.I never cover the brass on my 1911 T.
Prism polish is not Abrasive. I do not like to buff my brass on a buffing wheel. That is hard on any letters on the brass.
So after reading Bob's pitch for Prism (don't lie Bob, I know you must own that company. LOL =) I figured I'd try it. I have an Amazon Prime membership - free 2 day shipping on everything, so the Prism polish was less than $10 after tax.
I've been using Blue magic, and that does a good job and leaves a nice film that protects for a long time. But it isn't in the same league as Prism. I have a lot of brass, especially for a speedster (see profile pic where I have long trim pieces down around whole car). I just did the entire car in less than 2 hours. It requires less elbow grease than anything I've ever used. I haven't polished anything since August or so. I've also put sweaty arms and hands all on the trim pieces when I've been working under the car, so I have some stuff that was really dark brown and almost crusty.
I used a paper towel to apply it, and it just goes and goes. A little goes a long way is a monster understatement. I didn't even use all of what was just stuck to the lid. I could feel the junk rubbing off like loose paint. It is amazing. Buy a bigger jar and share it with your friends! I'm a convert.
If you never used Simichrome polish you're in for a surprise.
They do not give it away but it REALLY works.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=simichrome+polishing+paste&tag=googhyd r-20&index=aps&hvadid=33845115715&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=265475971162 8996736&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_kzpe0102r_b
This might be of interest. It didn't seem to take too much elbow grease! As for lasting, I only used it a month ago I will check back in 5 years. I got it for $10.00 www.met-all.com
Craig, I just tried some of the Simichrome that came with came with the '13 I just bought, on a couple of hub caps, and frankly I wasn't that impressed with it. I'd say it worked about the same as the Blue Magic. I think I'll stick with Blue and also Prism.
There is no substitute for lots of elbow grease!
The way I do it is with sandpaper! Start with large grit, e.g., 320 or even 80 on particularly rough brass. Go to 500, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. By that time the brass is just about polished. Then buff it out with Mother's Polish.
Prism gets my vote!
This morning I tried some of the Brasso I had sitting on the shelf. Egad, what a mess! This can't be the same stuff we used when I was in the army. The old Brasso used to wipe off with a polishing cloth. This new version set up and formed such a stubborn coating that I had to wipe it off with lacquer thinner to get rid of it. No more of that for me.
I am a dealer for Prism and will have some at Chickasha. Bring a piece of your tarnished brass to my spaces (NF 9-12) and try it for free.
Went out and bought Blue Magic Metal Polish. Best I have tried so far. Haven't tried Prism and some others mentioned but the BMMP really does a great job. I used it on an original brass radiator on my 1914 roadster.
For brass that hasn't been polished in years, I soak overnight with a good coat of kechup--it's a good start.
I have been using Wenol for several years and it leaves a protective film....
Going on Bob's recommendation, I tried Prism. I like it very much. It removes an even, light tarnish easily, and with more rubbing removes spots. I'm going to use just Prism on one side lamp and finish up with Cape Cod on the other, and see if there's any difference in how long the polish lasts.