There is an ever so slight seam separation at the bead at the back of the touring only when I push it in.
Do you think I can put something on it now to prevent future separation, like JB Weld?
Oops, sorry. forgot to put a heading to this thread. I was on the phone while I put this threat together.
Guess I should not talk and type.
I think something that is a little flexible rather than JB weld.
If it is the nailed on corner trim, I'd suggest you replace the offending nails with slightly larger body nails that are ring shank or twisted.
Another option to possibly consider if the wood is still solid, you can remove the nails, use waterproof wood glue and wooden round toothpicks to fill the nail holes. Then you can put a new same size nail back in recommend one that will not rust if they are available. I have used the waterproof wood glue and tooth picks successfully on my Model A Ford top. Of course the tacks for a top made smaller holes than the nails you are talking about.
If the wood is not solid, then something similar to Kwik-Poly [see: https://www.modeltford.com/item/KWIK-POLY.aspx ] could stabilize the wood. Note Kwik-Poly might work for filling the nail holes – I have not used it so I do not know if that would or would not work as well as the wooden toothpicks.
I would recommend taking some type of action as most things will not start getting better on their own.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Robert, I am unfamiliar with the construction of your body type, but I presume the plywood is nailed to some kind of internal frame. Rather than nail the ply, I would suggest you use fine countersunk brass or stainless screws, and fill over the heads once they are driven. You could even use phillips head screws! Screws should stay the journey better than nails.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under
You can get to the back side of this panel via the tool compartment under the seat. I recommend installing shim medium secured with a good wood glue behind the flexing panel. Then replace the fasteners with longer, as described above. My Touring body has countersunk screws holding this corner trim in place.
If it is plywood then I would consider using a 3M product called 5200. It can be cleaned up with acetone. The 5200 will take about a week to cure but when its cured you would have a VERY strong grip on the wood, providing you can get behind the surface with it. Just my 2 cents. It remains flexible and any moisture in the wood will actually make the 5200 saturate in to it.
Don, Good call on the 5200. It's used on aluminum boats and is paintable after it cures.
i have rebuilt some 11 or 12 bodies for Jim finney and others they have always had tin panels not plywood. this car has a 11 or 12 rear axle.so is that what it is??.charley