Is there a led highlight that would work in a 15 headlight bucket with out major change to the inside of the bucket?
I confess to being ignorant about LED headlamps. What are the advantages compared to incandescent bulbs? Bill
They use less electricity and tend to be brighter.
Bill - Less current draw. Whiter light.
I'm not aware of any bayonet base LED bulbs suitable for headlights. There's plenty of the modern style but they're all 12v and all will be DC. So you will need a battery.
I asked the same question (or one similar) a while back. A quick search for headlight led
gave these 2 hits and many others.
Here are a couple of LED sources that were provided.
A couple of sources given but the general discussion is, there isn't anything available for our application... yet
Ralph wants LED HEADLIGHTS.
Just a reminder to keep this thread from drifting off to tail lights again.
(Message edited by ccwken on January 25, 2015)
Don't think with today's types of LED that headlamp bulbs can be made to work.
The LED sends out a straight beam of light, only directly forward. That won't allow a parabolic refector to gather any light and throw broad rays of scattered light needed to illuminate a roadway.
Until an LED can be made with a filament light design, then none can be made into headlamp bulbs.
The tail lamp LED sends out straight beams, and the brand of 6v LEDbI use for the tail also has circle of little LED on the circumference, so some white light hits the license plate. If that wasn't done on the lamp design, then the plate would be in the dark!
"Straight beam" ???
Each of the yellowish patches in the image below is a LED. These are a direct replacement for modern halogen bulbs.
i believe someone put LED tail lamp bulbs in headlamps of a magneto lit car with decent results.
I think Dan's observation about the light charistics of LED's is correct.
My son and I were recently privileged to observe a light show put on by a local LED guru. His work is geared mainly for law enforcement "super flash lights", but he is "thinking" about an application for old car/motorcycle/tractor headlights.
It was amazing to see a football field sized area light up like daylight from his converted Maglite standard issue Police flashlight!
His prototypes fall into two classes; Projectors, where the LED light source is focused through a specially shaped lens (costly), and Reflectors which use a shaped LED array to bounce light off a standard Parabolic reflector (less costly but also less efficient).
I showed him a Model T headlight which he thought would be a very good candidate for development of his shaped LED IF I had the $2-3K to fund his development costs.
Maybe next year.
I did this conversion to my '15 when I got it a few years back. The LED's put out 220 lumens each, which makes the headlights bright enough for both lit and unlit roads. (I've been flashed for high-beams a couple of times.) They also come in warm-white, so your Model T won't look like it has Lexus-color headlights. The only downside is that they do not look at all like original light bulbs, so for show, just replace them with regular incandescent lamps.
There's no modification to the headlight buckets, but you will need to change the headlight wiring from series to parallel. The two battery layout gives 12V to the LED's and 6V to the coils. Alternately, you could get one 6V and one 12V battery and run them in parallel rather than series. In either case, the current draw is so low that the batteries only need topping off every week or two depending on how much night driving you do. The tail lamp is a neat combination that includes tail, stop, and license plate lights. Here are the part numbers and prices:
Batteries: WKA6-12F2 (Batteries Plus: $26.99 ea.)
Headlights: 1156-WW45-T (SuperbrightLEDs.com: $22.95 ea.)
Tail/Stop Lamp: 1157-R19W6 (SuperbrightLEDs.com: $12.99)
Tail/Stop Socket: BA15S-SW (SuperbrightLEDs.com: $.99)
Why not just run one 12V Bat to the coils?
A bit of a correction: I didn't mean to say "batteries in parallel". I meant to say, hook up the batteries with a common ground and two separate circuits, one 12V and one 6V.
And why not run 12V throughout? That's been covered pretty well in the forum. My reason not to do that is a brand new set of John Regan coils. For the cost of a second gel-cell battery and a length of wire (under $30), the coils get their design voltage and therefore, the proper current ramp when running on battery. Cheap insurance in my book.
I bought some LED's from a light supplier they are 3.5 volt I planed to run these in a set of brass 666 by wiring them in parallel to accept 6 volts from a small rechargeable 6v battery.
They are flat aprox the size of a button on a shirt, these are so bright you can't look at them when lit.... I was going to run the wires back through the gas holes in a set of old burners down through the rubber tube back to the brass generator where I planed to use a 6v gel-cell battery inside the bucket from a kids toy ride on power wheels truck, I figured I could use a dab of epoxy or other glue to attach the led to the burner itself facing the reflector where it couldn't be seen. And still be adjustable.. I think I still have these some where in a box.... I no longer have the car.
Sorry I quit to soon, you might be able to rig these up with an old bulb base, with an L bracelet attach the led to the L facing the reflector solder the wires back to the bulb base for your contact points. Someone else may have a better idea...
Thanks fellows,this good stuff. Thanks for share your knowledge.
Ralph: One final detail on the info I posted - A previous owner had changed the sockets on my '15 to single contact. The part number for the headlight LED is for that version. They do offer a double-contact version, but the wiring is different than on an original '15. Send me a pm if you get into it that far.
Steve: LED's are current-operated devices. They all require some form of current limiting. Ready-to-use LED's (like the ones I mentioned) have built in resistors to allow you to connect them directly to a battery. High-power single LED's do not. They require a constant-current power supply. Hooking them up without one will burn them out instantly. Commercial LED drivers are in the $15 range and can be tucked into a circuit anywhere between the battery and LED. If you want to make your own, here's an article on how.
Thanks for the link....and info.
Compared to what I have that looks totally different, Mine only have 2 wires no resistor built it, and are sealed in a metal housing I'm sure that's for heat dissipation, but they are polarized they have a positive and ground and only hook one way. I've had others I've tinkered around with, that light either way no matter which wire you put to + or -, I tested mine with a battery and charger as well the 3.5 v battery will only burn one bulb if you add a bulb you have to add another 3.5 v battery. For a total of 7 v I'd say 8v wouldn't hurt these either as they operate fine on 7v or 6v with no problems.
I'm sure someone will come up with a good solid led for us soon.
Super Bright LED's offer replacements for tail light bulbs in "RED". They are very bright....I use them for safety reasons. They also offer LED driving lamp replacements which provide bright lights with low current draw. I am using 12 VDC in my model T.