With a front license plate the crank when engaged bends the top of the plate. Bend the crank or re drill the hole for the ratchet? The license bracket is close as can be to the cross member.
Perhaps you have an aftermarket bracket? I have a '13, and I don't use a license plate at all, because I'm concerned I might cut my finger on the plate while cranking.
You could use one of these radiator neck license plate holders instead. They are relatively easy to come by.
If you absolutely have to use the front plate (some states don't), I'd make a bracket that gets it out of the way.
Not the greatest picture, but on my '24, the front license plate sits over an inch in front of the front axle and the crank is over an inch in front of the license plate when the crank is at rest. Even with the crank fully engaged with the pulley pin, there is 1/2 inch clearance between the crank and the license plate.
Perhaps the shaft on your crank was shortened at some time in the past?
I'd just remove the plate. If you ever would get hassled over it, explain that parts are extremely hard to find for these old cars (who's going to know the difference?) and that you've been looking for a correct mounting bracket for 2 years.
I have H & D shocks on my '14 and some of the spring hardware come quite close to the crank, leaving no room for the license plate.
As Jay posted, I resorted to a neck mounted plate.
Sometimes you just want to have a front plate even though it's not required. My front plate is a repo of an original Florida plate.
I use the aftermarket bracket the vendors sell and the problem on mine was hitting the front axle when the springs compressed on a bump. A slight outwards bend on the lower edge of the plate fixed the problem.
David: if you could post a picture I'm sure someone else has had the same problem.
It looks like the later cranks had a longer shaft to the ratchet. Another club member has the same year and problem as mine.(1915)
If so, I need to locate the later version.
Go old school.
The problem is not the crank, it's the brackets sold by the vendors.
The main problem is that the license plate does not hang low enough so it will clear the bend in the crank. Brackets from the period allow the plate to hang lower - even better ones have a dog leg.
Compare the photo of the brackets from Langs with the photos of period brackets below. Note that the period brackets allow the plate to hang lower and there is a dog leg.
I mounted the license plate in behind the bracket using a #10 flat head machine screw and it fixed the rubbing problem on my '14
Canadian cars had a clamp-on plate bracket that mounted to the headlamp post on the mid 20's cars - not easy to find but put the plate well out of the way
I'd just make a bracket for the plate to sit in front of the front axle, or do like the picture in Gary's post. I mean you can use zip ties if you hang it under the fender bracket. David can you post a picture of your problem? There may be a simple/elegant solution if folks can see what you have going on. Would also help to know if you're just satisfying a DOT requirement or have something that you just want on the front of the car.
If you look at David Holland's photo, the interference is along the radius (the bend) of the crank. The problem is not that the plate sticks out too far forward, the problem is the plate is sitting too high.
In my opinion, if the plate were simply lowered an inch or two, the problem would be solved. Utilizing the same brackets, this could be accomplished by attaching two strips of sheet metal - one piece per bracket - with machine screws and then attaching the plate to those pieces of metal.
You can use two short leather strap to hang it from the front axle. With todays roads there should be no clearance issue. I had a cow bell hanging that way and it never hit anything.
Whoops, I just missed where he had posted a picture. Should read the whole thread.
I had three issues with my starting crank, firstly the cross member was slightly twisted, the bushing was warn and the crank was slightly bent. All of the issues together caused the crank to be too close to the licence plate. They were hard to see because they were very suttle. With all the issues corrected there is ample clearance. It appeared that sometime in it's life the crank (hanging down) came in contact with the ground and bent the crank and the cross member and the bushing was generally warn out. However starting on a battery and pulling over center the licence plate shouldn't be an issue.
My friend George has a really nice '14 Roadster. When finally got it restored, the last touch was to put the 1914, perfect condition, porcelain license plate on it. He had the plate since he was a kid and dreamt of the day he could use it on a Model T. With it installed, it was time to crank up the old Ford. One time around with the crank and wham, porcelain chips flying everywhere. (And probably some four letter words too...)
And you have problems?
""I read on the Tesla Motors forum that the front license plate mount is not installed at the factory. It seems that if you live in a state that requires a front license plate the delivery technician will drill holes in your car to accommodate the installation of the front license plate mount. Here is the description of how the front license plate holder was installed:
A technician installed the front license plate frame on July 30 at our house. He said he thought the current design was slightly different from the design used at the June 22 delivery event, but still required drilling holes into the front part of the Model S. He was not aware of any design effort at Tesla to create a front license plate holder that did not require drilling holes.
I can't imagine a high dollar car not being finished with a front license plate holder when required. I must say that this irks me a bit.""
Seth, Not zip ties. Need to use baling wire to stay period correct. Is it still available? OK, then a chunk of fence wire. ;>)
Fixed! Made lowering brackets and mounted plate inside the brackets. Crank misses plate by 1/2 inch. Plate is 1/2 inch below top of front axle.
More good advice from the MTFCA forum