Long counterbore pilot

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Long counterbore pilot
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 05:35 am:

Does anybody know where I can get a long counterbore pilot, 5/8" diameter with a 1/4" shank? I need one about 8" long. I want to install bushings in an aluminum hogshead and I want to use this to keep the clutch shaft pilots aligned. I know it would be easy to make if I had a lathe, but I don't have one. All I've been able to find are the standard short ones. I have the counterbore and a standard pilot which is fine for the pedal shafts but not the clutch shaft.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 03:08 pm:

Use a 1/4" extension shank. I've seen them in sleeve style so you would need a rod for the extension or the drill bit extension style with the rod built in. The tool is locked in place with set screws. These usually aren't very precision though.

Are you counterboring from outside of one side to the inside bore of the other side? I'm confused. But that's not new. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 03:13 pm:

This is the sleeve style.




This is the drill style.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 03:45 pm:

I want to counterbore from the outside towards the inside and install a bronze bushing; this was done on one of my aluminum hogsheads before and it worked great. But it's important that the counterbore (and new bushing) is inline with the opposite end of the shaft. Then insert the first bushing and counterbore from the other side. I think it needs to be precise but I'm not a machinist. Seems like if it's not I may end up with a bore that is loose for the bushing. When I saw this done it used a piece of 3/4" rod turned down to 5/8 for about 7 or 8", then stepped down to 1/4", then cut off. The rod was long enough to enter the far side of the hogs head before the first counterbore was cut. It was very simple, effective and accurate.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 07:28 pm:

We have 5/8" stock at work, not sure if it's on the plus side or not. Are you going to bore from the outside in or vice versa? Not completely understanding your methodology.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 07:41 pm:

Why are you counterboring the holes? It will be hard for someone to change the bushing in the future.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 09:10 pm:

Hi Phil. Yes, from the outside on each side, but not all the way through. I have a hogshead that had this done and it works out great.. Ken is correct, it would not be easy to remove them, but the bronze bushings will last a whole lot longer than the aluminum and that car will never be driven like it once was back in the day so I don't see it as an issue.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Monday, February 02, 2015 - 10:56 pm:

I have a similar issue with my hogshead but was lucky to find a good set of shafts in my grandpa's stash of parts. Instead of repairing the hogshead (it's not that bad to begin with) I'm inserting a narrow bushing inside the cam housings. To do this I'm holding the housing with an i.d. collet and boring it out. I will machine the narrow bushing either out of aluminum bronze or stainless steel and press it in.


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