Can this wheel with cracks around the stud hole be used or is it junk?
I've never decided whether cracks like those were there from the day it was made, or from overtightening. I think some of each. I have some wheels like that too that I use on my car. My take is, that as long as the cracks don't progress out past the countersink bevels and into the flange of the hub, it's o.k. If that's a good criteria, I would say yours looks o.k. too, although you don't show the front face.
Every so often, I walk around my car and check each wheel for cracks. I have also found cracks that run concentric to the hub, in the radius just below the bolts holes. I've had these welded with good results after years of additional use.
The concentric cracks I mention above would be as marked below. In my observations, this is the more common crack;
Maybe use the stud washers to better support the lug nuts.
Don't over tighten the nuts, it pulls the hole ring down to the hub and cracks the lip like above. Nice and tight, then check them every so often.
The washers Mark suggests are very good. They also help prevent paint chipping when tightening the lug nut.
I routinely Braze around those lug holes. So far I have had no problems.
I would TIG weld those cracks, but that's just me.
Thank you guys for the good advice.
Brazing does not add much strength, while a good TIG weld can be very strong, so I would go along with Bill.
What about welding those washers on the back ?
Good idea ? I need to figure out how do the same thing to my wires and spoke straighten.
I have never had anyone break one of my braze welds. Never.The only thing it does is prevent further cracking,and provides a stronger base .
Some of mine are ovaled.
With my Lincoln flux core wire welder I welded up a wire wheel that had all the lug bolt holes cracked severely and the hub cracked somewhat like Jerry's picture but much more extreme with the crack more than 180 degrees. I welded the hub from both sides, then ground the outside to the original contour. To my amazement I mounted the wheel on the front axle and the wheel ran true within plus or minus about an 1/8".
I returned it to the original owner, I don't know what he did with it. I know it would have made a good spare, I don't think I would have run it on the front axle. I welded it to see if it could be done satisfactorily and for the enjoyment of doing it. I now have a pacemaker/defribillator and really miss being able to use my arc welder.
They might be OK as is, but I would weld 'em up.
I was in no way disparaging brazing repairs and certainly not disparaging YOU. I have had the opportunity to make some repairs with a TIG unit and it can be just the ticket for cracks of the sort shown on Albert's wheel.
The circle of cracks around the centre of the hub is not uncommon. A neat fix involves die grinding the cracks from the inside until almost right through. Then a MIG weld to re-fill the ground out trench. Done carefully, there is nothing to grind on the outer side of the hub, and the inside need not be ground at all.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.