I was given these today and plan on putting the hubcaps on my car. Could you tell me some info on them, I'm not sure what year they are and how to tell if they are reproductions or originals. Also, what can you tell me about this mosco hub puller? Thanks ahead of time.
The MOSCO hub puller is, of course, an aftermarket tool. Having only a small screw to clamp the puller to the hub I wonder if it would tighten enough to not strip out the hub threads when the "pushing" bolt is tightened against the axle shaft. I have never used one as I am fortunate to have a Ford puller. They may be perfectly fine.
The hub caps, well, it's hard to be sure from the small picture but I think that they "smell" like reproduction. I could be wrong. My two cents worth. Bill
The hub caps are surprisingly thick. A lot thicker than the reproduction nickel plated ones that I have.
Hmmmmmm. I'm still leaning towards Repro. I have seen some known to be repro heavy caps. I have Never seen or hefted a heavy genuine Ford cap.
Thanks, for future reference how do you tell the difference between reproduction and original hub caps?
All of the reproduction hubcaps I have ever looked closely at are/were thicker and heavier than any/all of the the original caps I have seen. Reversely, all originals are thinner and lighter than the repros.
Your caps being brass would be most appropriate for a 1916 or earlier T. They will fit and work fine on almost any good model T wood wheel hub. The photo isn't large enough for me to see precisely what year before 1916 they appear to be. There were a few variations there. Royce and several others would know better than I do. But I think that basic script came out in 1911 without the USA. The USA was added about '12 and there were some changes in the size of the script and periods were added within the USA.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
The thicker repro hubcaps can be an un-intentional life saver!
Descending from a lookout, one of our members had the flange on a rear hub break free. The spokes and outer flange plate migrated out towards the end of the hub, only to come up against the thicker repro hubcap, which stopped the whole assembly from coming off. With no brakes, he was able to ride the car to the bottom of the hill with no damage other than the need for an underwear change.
I had come across a couple of hubs which had been welded up. This incident showed what can happen when such a break occurs.
Allan from down under.
The MOSCO is a very good puller though the bolt seems to have been changed on yours. Originally there would have been a plunger through the bolt to strike with the hammer. KGB
1912-1916. For full coverage of hubcaps see pages 695-698 in Bruce's encyclopedia.