I'm going to try something...before I do my usual plow into it...and spending weeks getting something right...
Will be working on a car that has an Atwater Kent timing gear cover. Since original A-K parts are near impossible to find or expensive as heck when you do find them...owner wants to go to a Texas T replacement distributor.
I have the proper timer style cover to change it out to...got it from a forum member on the other coast...
Now my question to the forum guru's...
I only want to do this ONCE...I don't want to get 1/2 way through and need to go buy silly parts...or find myself going 'oops' and needing to reverse something...it's cold, the workshop is unheated, and the owner wants it running for the first warm day.
Walk me through it in a bullet-proof way, please? Like do I really need the alignment jig since the cam is already in place? What and where to add seal/sealants...felt or modern seals...etc...
Thanks in advance...
You don't need the alignment jig since you're installing a distributor. That's only needed to accurately align a timer concentric to the camshaft. True, you would like the dist. gears to align accurately too, but it's not as critical as timer location.
That said, I'm sure some folks would use it for this anyway, but that's my take on it.
George, a new dist setup or one used before? If new it should have all the parts and a instruction sheet. If used so if you can get the packing sheet from Texas T Parts to use to check that you have all the parts. Use a rope style crankshaft seal and repaint the cover, install a neoprene oil seat for the camshaft and install the cover using black RTV.
George, just a couple of tips which may help. If the seal in the pan is a felt seal, you can use a pin punch to compress it on each side and add some extra felt from a new seal. This will help to maintain the seal. If you use a rope seal on the cover, seat it well and use an appropriate socket to make the seal conform to the cover.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
One tip is to remove the pulley from the crankshaft to allow the timing cover to tip off past the end of the cam shaft.
This will work if you have a split seal such as the original felt or the Model A rope seal, but if you have a modern seal which goes all the way around the crankshaft, you will have a problem. In the latter case you will need to pull the engine and remove the crankcase to get the cover off.
I have a modern crank shaft seal, and I was able to get the front cover off with out removing the pan.
The Texas T distributor instructions state the front cover must be accurately located to prevent premature gear wear. I bought the $13 centering tool, and was surprised how easy it is to mount the cover off center. If you are in a T club, check around, somebody may have one to loan you.
George; worst case if you don't find one post a note and someone will loan one. I've got one of the inexpensive Texas T Parts ones I loan out.... I just don't let me KRW one get out of site
How were you able to remove it? You need to move the cover forward to clear the camshaft at the same time removing it from the seal which is a complete circle. How did you move the cover forward with the seal in the groove? Did you have to cut the seal and if so, how?
thank you all for the advice and comments...
See..I would have never thought the lower pulley was possibly going to give issue...this forum is great!
There are two centering devices available...one for about 15 bucks, one for closer to 50. Think the suggestion is to go with the higher priced one? Price isn't the issue...I work dirt cheap and sometimes for the cost of a lunch...but if I need a new tool? No questions asked, too bad, you buy, I keep (Has worked so far anyway...lol) I do guard the bucks of folks whose car I work on but...
Norman, it took a lot of mumbling, and cursing, but I have had it off twice. Both times the radiator was off, and I removed the crank pulley. I have a Chaffins Driver's regrind cam if that would make any difference. I just pulled up and out, and a lot of wiggling and finesse and it does come off. The first time I figured I had nothing to lose if I buggered it, I would not have to pull the engine if it worked. I just put RTV on the top when I put it back together. It does not appear to leak any since.
You don't need to slide it straight off. Once you remove the pulley, just tip at the top past the end of the cam shaft and lift up. Unless the full circle seal is glued hell for stout it should come out of the cover.