I have a stuck headlight ring. I have used the tool that is sold for removal and it won't budge. Any suggestions?
Once it is off, and I clean everything up real good, is there something I can put on it like beeswax or some type of lube so it will come off easier next time?
I had one that was really difficult to get off. They need to be pushed in toward the rear of the car a little to get out of the detent in the slots, and it wouldn't budge. I had to really lean into it and rock the car. You might try turning it a little bit clockwise first and then push in hard while turning counter clockwise.
You want a foam pad on the floor in case the thing suddenly pops off. You can probably guess how I know this.
Tom- I sent you a PM.
Tom I've had a couple I had to take the light off the car lay it lens down and push hard on the back of the bucket while on a rubber mat on the floor, you can take both palms and push down to get it to move inward it's easier if a buddy can get hold of the mounting bracket and give it a twist while you hold pressure on it...
What a pain.....! After I got them loose cleaned painted I put a dab of grease at each latch / locking point, I can take them off any time now with little effort.
Is it a stock ring or a re-pop? Re-pops can be a real pain to get off on some years. I found that the pins on some of the re-pops are too long and hard to get out of the retaining grooves. I had to gingerly get behind the edge of the rim and pull the headlight rim out a little while twisting to get the first side free, then repeated the procedure with the second until I could pop the headlight rim off. To solve the issue I just took the trusty Dremel tool and cut maybe 1/16" off the pins. Goes on and comes off very easy now.
Steve, knowing my luck the ring and lens would miss the foam pad.
Spray, spray and more spray! Breaking that rust lock can be a pain, I used a large size filter strap wrench to break one free but I was sure of the "off" direction. The strap wrench is only good for one direction at a time. You have to remove and flip it to go the other way so it's not so hot to use for this but I did eventually get it. After a day or so.
Use an old, well-worn leather belt - in the same manner you would a filter strap. Read about it first in Tinkerin Tips and it has never failed me - no matter how stuck the rim was (and I work with REALLY marginal parts).
Tried everything, WD 40, belts, and brute strength to no avail. Could not remove headlight rims. Finally got a suggestion from the PO who had a magnificent belly. Seems that the whole removal solution lies in the absolutely even pressure provided by putting ones belly against the headlight lens firmly while rotating the rim with both hands. Worked wonderfully and easily for both rims although my belly is not near so grand as his it still worked great!
Any idea on the length of the orig. pins are. I'll be needing to trim mine back a little of my '26
Geo n L.A.
Measuring a few headlight rims.. First a black early 20's rim, the rivets sticks in between 5/32" to 3/16" from the inside of the rim, measuring from the rim metal, not the glass holding brackets that is held by the rivets.
Then two 26/27 nickeled brass rims. The first varies from 9/64" to 5/32", the second from 5/32 to 3/16".
Last one is chromed and appears to be a repro. No variation that can be measured with a caliper, all rivets sticks in about 5/32" from the rim.
I had the problem with one of mine. Soon as I enlisted my wife to twist while I pushed it came off.
My grandfather (born 1903) used to say:
"If you can't fix it with the hammer you've got, get a bigger hammer !"
Tom I put NAPA Door Ease on mine it comes in a solid stick and helps with water intrusion it is a "waxy" stick I hope this answers your question.
My '26 lights are on a bar and pushing them in and turning at the same time works pretty well. On my earlier models, I'd remove the light, spray a little WD-40 on the rim, put them in a black and decker work mate, and put them in the sun for an hour. Never was a problem.