I am installing a later motor with a starter and generator in an earlier car where the switch is on the coil box. I also want to add a ammeter and electric horn and am unsure about how to wire everything. Does anyone have a diagram that would show that set up. I have Ford wiring diagrams but am electrically challenged, to say the least, and am afraid of doing something that might affect the magneto.
Exactly what year car is the host for the later motor setup?
The car is a '14. The battery is in a battery box on the running board and I installed a standard Ford starter switch. I have the original coil box and switch that I am using and I added an ammeter that is mounted on the dash next to the coil box.
I've been rewiring my late 26. These have helped.
The only useful purpose of the bottom diagram is for use in a bathroom once printed out on soft paper. Any engine wired up according to it will not run very good.
Garnet, do you mean the discrepancy between the correct numbering on the timer symbol while the drawn connections to coil #3 and 4 goes to the wrong one?
What Garnet said reminded me. My wife is vice president of the national toilet paper raper association. We go into mc donalds she goes to bath room. Little black girl comes in with new rolls, My wife said mam can I have the rapper off one of them? Black girl rolls them big black eyes around and said Lady if you use the inside it is a lot softer. Do not argue with people who know what they are talking about.
I have the wiring diagram for the later cars but since I do not have a separate switch or a terminal block I am not certain how to proceed. Should I run the wire from the generator directly to one side of the ammeter and then from the other terminal of the ammeter to the battery terminal on the coil box and run another wire from the starter switch to the same terminal on the coil box? I also assume that the hot wire for the horn would also come from the battery post on the coil box as that should be hot all the time. I plan to fuse the line from the starter switch so I would want everything to be powered after that fuse. Thanks
Might I suggest leaving the mag wire off until your 100% sure everything's correct?
I still have a few questions. Is the battery box on the passenger side or driver side and where did you mount the ammeter? Hopefully the ammeter is NOT the small chrome ring one. Slow down and make a wiring diagram so you know what goes where and what gauge of wire is needed for each path. Then you can estimate how much wire you need and its gauge. The actual work on the car then is the easy part. If you try to figure it out as you go you will waste a lot of wire and have a lot of mistakes. Mistakes are very cheap and easy to fix when they are on paper. My further advice would be to get ONE person to help you because designing something by committee will take at least twice as long and you will have twice the errors. A camel is a horse designed by a committee.
Val, that sounds good except for the horn. If you're still using the Mag horn, it won't work on DC. It should be connected to the Mag terminal on the coil box.
Sorry. Crude drawing but fast.
Thanks Ken, the diagram is just what I needed. I am not using a mag horn so I think the only thing running to the mag terminal on the coil box will be the red wire from the mag pick-up.
John, the battery box is on the drivers side and I am running 1/0 cables for the 6 volt system. The longest run is less than 3' from the battery to the starter switch. The rest of the wiring is standard Ford gauge stuff that I cannibalized from old harnesses and I am trying to keep the color code the same as well so it will be easier for someone to figure out what I did. The ammeter is an original Ford large style that I had in my parts stash.
Sounds like you're good to go. Pay particular attention to the horn and horn switch connections. The early 1-wire horn button is to complete ground on a 2-terminal horn. The later 2-wire horn button is to complete the positive feed to a 1-terminal horn. (The mounting is the ground.)
Thanks Ken. I believe the horn is a later one with a single wire but I have to get it out of storage to check. I may go without an electric horn at this point as my bulb horn is just as loud and sounds better. Thanks again for the help.
Yes Roger - the firing order would be 1-2-3-4 because of that. Credit for catching this is goes to Ron Patterson.
I am installing a 1920 engine and transmission into a 1915.
The owner has driven the fifteen for many years with no battery.
I intend to put in a starter switch on the floor to turn the engine over and let it start on mag.
Why should I need to start it on battery?
A generator can have the wire go straight to a hot wire on the junction block to keep the car looking like a fifteen.
The diagram on the bottom is an old one from Texas T Parts, and is indeed wrong. It was corrected about two years ago or three years ago. The one that was last on their website, was correct.