The other thread was getting pretty long, so I'll kick off a new one. I started up the roadster and took it for a spin around the block (2 miles), and it did OK so I went around again. The fresh engine still takes a lot of pulls to get it going, but it's getting better. Once it was warmed up I even started it on MAG a few times. Before I put it away I took advantage of the current meteorological anomaly (73º this afternoon) and performed a dustectomy.
14 degrees F and snowing here - maybe 14" on the ground now and forecast is for 10-18" more before the weather system goes elsewhere by Tuesday AM.
Shoveled and plowed snow today! Will be a couple months before the salt is off the roads in my area.
Sure like your uniform of the day Steve!
It was easier to shed the shirt than to roll up the sleeves.
I was just thinking of starting a new thread, Thanks Steve!
Not so much today, because I am in the same boat as Dave with the weather. But yesterday I dismounted the old dried tires and tubes off these mid 30's Chevy truck wire wheels for the front of my doodlebug---no easy task when they are that old and hard.
Need to figure out the best way to clean the rust off the inside part of the wheel where the tube goes and paint it.
I probably wont touch the outsides much, maybe a little dusting of paint on the worse looking one to make the two match---maybe not. Not sure on how I feel about it yet.
Awwww Dave. A little snow is beautiful.
A lot of snow is -- well you know!
Yesterday I pushed the snow banks back to make room for the next big snowfall and cleared a place for my daughter's Mini Cooper S to be parked because she has given up trying to get thru anything deeper than 3 inches.
Today I moved an additional 6 inches of snow from the driveway after my son got stuck in the plow-pile at the end of the driveway and filled the snowblower with gas so we are ready for the next 12 inches.
A 70-degree day in February is too good to pass up! I got one of my Model T buddies and a Model A one rounded up, and we took a spin on some of my favorite Model T roads. They hadn't been on most of them before and thoroughly enjoyed the trip. Just a 3-car mini-tour for about 5 hours. We made a 95-mile loop through lovely valleys alongside creeks, through woods and farmland, and up and down hills through Devil's Den State Park. There were lots of folks out enjoying the abnormally warm weather, in all sorts of antique cars and lots of motorcycles. What a great day and great roads for a Model T drive!
Today was another day working on the engine assembly. Install the thrust kit for the cam, double check everything again and then again. Next up is the pan, need to replace the crank bushing.
Engine is pretty tight when I spin it by the flywheel but it's already loosened up some.
Good news, Ray Wells called me and my wood pieces for the coupelet are done. Will pick them up at the Sand Diego swap meet.
I noticed how nice and warm it was up through Tornado Alley! Well heck, we had a balmy 47 today in N.Ohio cesspool of winter weather, so I'm not complaining. Got lotsa stuff done, even putzed on a couple of cars. Was tempted to get the '20 out of the garage and at least park it at the end of my long driveway out by the street to stir up the neighbors making them think I was brave (or dumb) enough to drive it out on the salt roads, but opted not to. (too lazy to hook the battery back up!)
Philip -- Be sure to have someone with a pan-straightening fixture check the pan before putting it on the engine. Pretty much all of them are bent. If the 4th main doesn't line up correctly, it can break your crankshaft over time.
I started the engine my new doodlebug for the first time today. That felt good.
Yesterday, we finally got to start mocking things up. Here it is going together next to our Beetle.
Worked on the drive shaft for my Ruckstell. The project has gone on for to long, it will be done before spring!
Everyday I have all the best intentions of going out to the shop and accomplishing something. But something happens around here in January and February that makes getting motivated very difficult.
But now I've invested some money into having my speedster seats upholstered. The man has ordered the material and I have about half the money paid down. The seat buckets need to be painted before I can take them to his shop. Tomorrow I'll be on the road headed North but hopefully I'll get a coat of primer on before I leave.
I'm also about halfway finished restoring a Sunstrand static balancer and I'm waiting on parts.
I've been spending a lot of time scraping and fitting bearings on a '26 T engine. I don't really have a need for the motor but I'm learning some of the processes involved with rebuilding it.
One other project I need to start before the winter goes much farther is to get the motor out of my touring car and have the block bored to cleanup a scored cylinder. And that's where I should be spending my time!
I'm seriously considering it's time to cut back on the number of cars around here. My problem is that each of the cars are good examples of vehicles I've wanted for most of my life. How would I ever get rid of one of them.
Maybe that's not entirely true. I've got a strong hankering to get rid of the Corvette and put a Model A roadster with a built flathead in its place.
I removed some old clear coating on my brass side lamps with a product called "SOY GEL Professional Paint Stripper". You simply brush it on and after 20 minutes, I was able to easily remove the old coating using a hand scrub brush and water. A friend loaned me his bottle to try it out. It worked great.....I was amazed how easy it worked!
Several years prior to this, had tried soaking with Lacquer thinner and that did nothing. The old coating was on the lamps when I bought our 13 model T approx. 16 years ago. Do not know what the coating was....however do not think it was clear Lacquer.
After using this product, I was able to buff the brass, looks great now. Used a buffing wheel for most areas and Prism for areas that are too scary using the buffing wheel.
On the bottle...it is written that SOY GEL is "made with 100% American Grown Soybeans". Does not have a strong smell and did not burn my hands.
Franmar Chemical, Inc. is listed on the plastic bottle. www.franmar.com
There is a warning listed..."This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm".
Beings I am 75 yrs. old....don't think I have much to worry about at this point in my life.
It's been real warm here, high thirties! I noticed the bees were flying so we went out and put some pollen cakes in the hives. One mean little SOB stung me through my glove. I separated a heifer and went to the dump, our Sunday social event. To muddy and icy for the T. PK
Well, I FINALLY got my rear axle rebuilt and all back together! Many thanks to all the T forum friends for their invaluable advice and help, especially Jerry Van and his magnificent riveting skills! The original 12 rivet pumpkin housings were definitely worth the effort to salvage. Now if only Spring would arrive here in the frozen North like it did in Steve Jelf's world! I guess I should have thought twice about building it in my basement - I may have a slight challenge getting out!
Bill your rear axle assembly (notice I politically correctly avoided "rear end"!!LOL)...looks nice. I did the same thing with my '15 and just about re-blew out a previous hernia getting it out of the basement, and I even have those outside Bilco door/steps! Never do that again, trust me!
P.S....you're sure up early posting!!!
Thanks for the "plug" on the soybean paint stripper. I have some soybeans I need to sell and the price is down. Maybe your good review will cause the price to skyrocket. It never fails...the price of soybeans is high until I have some to sell!!!
Got the coil box rebuilt, mounted to the test fire wall and started the starter re build.
Upholstery came in today for the 1912 slab side touring. I told the Mrs. that if got leather it would be better for resale. I do not know if that is true but it sounded good.
Now that I have a roadworthy T ready to drive when the weather gets good enough, I've gone back to work on my five dollar tool box so I can carry tools and other necessaries without taking up limited trunk space.
I got the box cheap because it had a split in one corner of the lid. A few minutes at a local body shop fixed that. You can see the seam and the inside welds here, but none of that shows on the outside.
I've hammered out the worst of the dings, and now I'm in the priming/sanding phase. This won't be car show perfect, but it will be pretty good, especially considering what it cost.
Looked in on the '13 to be sure she was resting comfortably in her trailer, in the barn, with a heater for her as we're going below zero again for two days! Then hauled two wheelbarrow loads of firewood up to the house garage for the same reason.
Life is exciting around here this time of year.
Cleaned the drivers side AC brakes, back side of wheel, pushed in 2 more seals, greased the bearing and used new outer seal. Drained the pumpkin and put fresh 600W in. Noticed more up down movement in axle then I would like. Time for rebuilding rear end (next year). At least I know it has bronze thrust washers.
Three done, three to go.
Get six coils to make working from a German friend, a few weeks ago. Three have bad secondary coils. Cleaned the other three and rebuild the wooden boxes and build the three coils to good working coils with new capacitors and contact points.
Will joint a fourth coil and send them back to Germany this afternoon.
Dang Andre - I don't think I have seen a coil on here completely cleaned out with zero tar. What did you do and how did you do it?
In the attachment a two photos of the coil box that came with three other coils from Germany to be rebuild. The coil box and the four coils I showed before are going back to Germany. Photos of the three other coils and what is left of it in attachment.
How clean it?
I took the coils out of the box and clean them with White Spirit and Cellulose Thinner. The hardware is cleaned with a soft steel brush in a static drill.
As all is clean and dry I start to disassemble the coil. First all the top hardware. For the wood I use a sharp knife to cut it loose from the tar. For the contacts I use a hot solder iron to disconnect them from the wires.
What is left is a block of tar with the coils, the capacitor and the glass insulation in it. Most of the time the tar is falling in pieces and can take of easy. What is left I put on an old pie support over and old cooking pan. With a hot air paint stripper I heat up the tar till it melt and drop in the pan. Finally I clean the rest of the tar with Paint Thinner and leave to dry.
As all is clean the reassemble can start. Finished and working coils are sanded and treated with furniture wax to protect the old wood.
To rebuild the coils I didn't find it myself I had to learn it. Thanks to Ron Patterson and Toon Boer who showed me how it should be done and took there time to answer all my questions.
Nice work, Andre.
Bob, please keep us up to date with your upholstery project.
: ^ )
I worked on my lighting this weekend. Took the Red Spot spotlight off and mounted one of the Victor driving lights I have. Some of you have the Red Spot and they are neat but the bulb is only a headlight bulb. Looks nice but is not a driving light.
I was fortunate to get a pair of these Victors. They appear to be NOS and have 3/4 cfh burners in them. I just needed to make a shaft extension.
I moved my rear view mirror up on the windshield and set a clean 3/4 cfh burner in the Victor.
The Victor and two John Browns work well with the Prest-O-Lite B tank. I imagine the acetylene required to run this three lamp setup is well beyond the Victor gas generator I have. I have spent too much time getting lime deposits out of burners I have to go that route.
Except for a single 3/4 cfh burner, the withdrawal rate is exceeded on a MC tank that was intended to be used on a single light motorcycle.
Acetylene is a safe fuel gas if handled correctly.
However, I have reviewed about 100 old forum threads regarding acetylene gas lights and failed to see a single reference to the 1/7 tank rule. Most of you folks are aware of the 1/7th but I add it for others since I am showing a setup almost four times beyond MC tank use.
There was, and still is, a very good reason Ford and other manufacturers used the Prest-O-Lite B tank on their automobiles. It satisfies the 1/7 withdrawal limits for acetylene tanks established over 100 years ago.
Currently, the American Compressed Gas Association (CGA) has established a 1/15 rule for continuous withdrawal out of an acetylene tank, Ref 29 CFR 1910.
I add this comment because there seems to be a tendency to want to use an MC tank in our cars with more than a single burner. You are pulling acetone into your regulator which will ruin it. Just my 2c worth.
The three light setup above meets the 1/15 B tank withdrawal rule with 3/4 cfh burners (3/4 x 3 x 15 = 33.75 capacity tank req. vs. 40 cubic foot Prest-O-Lite B tank).
Ken in Texas
(Message edited by drkbp on February 19, 2015)
Harvey C. was kind & generous to share some 'specs' of a body cart shown in a photo he'd posted on the Forum. Have now built one of my own with some alterations ('pinned' the top crossmembers for tip-up storage in my space-deprived shop.) Now to roll the gantry crane into position and do some lifting!
Sorry about the double post. The heat must be getting to me.
Looken good Steve, with the help of CNHMTC members Ken, Paul & Steve I have been going through my '26 coupe Seabiscuit this winter. Started with the rear end, then the transmission and now the engine. If it stops snowing we're ready to start putting it all back together.
I made the mounting brackets today, for the headlights on the speedster project, and now I have the headlights mounted .. . Im not sure what they came off of but I liked them. The tie bar between the headlights is a neat item. They are labeled Auto-Lite System LB-1001 Toledo O. Would like to know what they came off of if anyone knows. The buckets and lens are bigger than a T. The lens is 9 inch in diameter, and are "Violet Ray" lens
Worked on painting my running board tool box and making mounting hardware for it. I hope to have it ready to use by spring.
Steve, hope you share picks of your mountings, I have a box I got From RDRicks that needs Paint and mount.
George n L.A.
Converted a starter to 12 volt. Working on rebuilding a generator today. At ZERO for a high today any work will be done in the house. I'm tired of winter and can't to get back out in the garage and get the T out of mothballs.
Installing AC brakes on my 15 Roadster
Up in Wa state, it's about 50 degrees, with slight overcast. No rain, which is nice for a change. Way too nice to work in the shop, so I fired up the '13 and went for a short spin. Feels really good to be behind the wheel of an early car again. Everything is in bloom way early this year, so I stopped by the plum tree for a quick photo shoot, then infront of the house for another photo. If the weather stays like this, looks like I'll be mowing the lawn very soon.
Today I shoveled snow...
I drove to San Diego yesterday to pickup my new wood pieces from Ray Wells for my 16 coupelet. Slowly but surely she's coming together.
Les -- You're going to have to paint your house a different color. It clashes with your Model T.
Today I finished rebuilding a Ruckstell for a fellow near Kansas City. (I think it's OK to show this, since Uncle Stan has retired from doing Ruckstells. )
I have a set of acetylene headlights I picked up last year. They have forks that appear to be like your speedster forks. Each fork still had the cross shaft support but it had been cut. It was about 9/16 inch in diameter.
I will post a couple of pictures and maybe someone will tell us what they came off of.
The forks are about 8-1/4 inch center to center. They are threaded with 1/2 inch-13 and have a brass finial on each fork post.
The lamps themselves are acetylene but there is no maker's mark anywhere I can see.
They had a beautiful set of Lancaster 6-inch Mangin mirrors in them. Also, there was a complete elbow, stand and burner for each.
I don't know what they came off but the headlight doors are brass too.
Ken in Texas
Ken, the stems on mine were also cut off. They were about one inch longer than they are now, and had a 90 degree bend in the stem. So I do not know how the rest of the mount looked. I just made a "socket" for the stem to fit in and added a "set bolt" to hold them in place. I also added a cotter pin hole "just in case". I bet my lights came with a "high head" acorn nut like yours has ... Nice lights ....
A buddy and I took an 8 hour road trip today to buy a 1951 Delta surface e grinder. This will make a nice addition to my small home shop.
I pulled the front off the roadster to get some rust off the fenders and some paint on them. I also have to patch the radiator and put my new Anderson manifold on. I think I'll clean up the wiring while I'm at it. PK
I bought a used 28' enclosed trailer with an 8' high ceiling to haul my T around this summer. Looking forward to going on some tours for the first time. http://www.trailertraders.com/2115418-28ft-enclosed-gator-trailer/details.html
I spent the weekend patching the quarters and replacing the door sills on the roadster
Spent the day as usual, working on stuff that belongs to other people. First, replaced the struts, shocks and lower control arms on my mom's PT Cruiser. Then, line bored main bearings for a 26 coupe, poured mains for another late coupe. Reamed out tappet bores for two blocks to use 292 Ford Y-block tappets with overhead valves. One with Rajo BBR head and one for an all out race engine with 8 port Gemsa head. Honed cylinders to size for the race engine. Finally gave up. Long day. Someday I hope to work on some of my T's.
Busy day today...
This morning I removed the brake pedal from a chassis I am building, tack welded a Rocky Mountain extension to check the fit, then gave it a more sold weld. Then I drilled the hole for the clevis and then re-installed, all without dropping a nut or washer into the transmission.
Then this afternoon we went to the Annual Meeting of the HCFI Library in La Mesa, check out their on-line library of early periodicals at www.hcfi.org
Got the okd shoo motor to pop after 10+ years storage
Timer was 1/4" offset took awhile figure why it was so advance at the standard 2.5 measurement
Hooked up horn today before the rain. Horn just barely made noise, think its internal so I'll disassemble it to see whats up. Got new wires properly soldered.
got the starter disassembled and ready for paint, doing some research on the best field coil to purchase and waiting for some questions to be answered from Lang's before I order for re-assembly.
Got my block and crank back form machine shop after having them magnafluxed, the block was milled .006 and cylinders were honed, crank was polished and now with the help of my very good friends Ken, Paul and Steve we can start putting it back together.
I drove my 14 T Roadster and gassed it up. Them I went and picked up my new trifocals. Now I keep falling down, not used to them yet.
Wasn't actually today....but today I moved pictures over from my phone to computer. This was this past Saturday, maybe but 2 hours before the weekend white-out arrived.
National Park Service owns Edison's New Jersey estate and in the carriage house is the Model T. (Along with an early Locomobile and 2 Detroit Electrics). The museum curator actually uses it throughout the year on the estate and for parades through town, but when it comes to maintenance and adjustment he relies on a couple of T guys to go through it now and then (and they actually get to drive it too!) The car has linoleum aftermarket running boards, Firestone wheels in perfect condition, and a replacement top that has a glass window in the rear. Mechanically, Edison spark plugs and wood bands have been added in recent years by Bob J. and myself. The odo shows 12K and from what we see 'underneath' it is probably a good correct original number!
One day we'll do a write up for Vintage Ford as this is really a remarkable car. Had to laugh and chuckle Saturday, had oil for the tilt up oilers...but no oil can. Bob J. had something that would have worked but there on the shelf was an original oil can, empty and with an asset number on it...the curator said....'go for it' and we did!
I have not been doing a thing to the 1927 Roadster, way too cold in an unheated garage. I need a smaller house with much more property......Steve, you have a beautiful Roadster !
Yesterday morning I rotated the tires on my 1924 cut-off touring (now a pickup) and then took it for a 12 mile drive along one of my local loops. The temperature was about 25 degrees F, but the top and side curtains keep most of the drafts out. I can be comfortable in a sweatshirt with a light jacket, jeans, a stocking cap and a pair of light "grippy" gloves (they have a pattern of little rubber dots bonded to the fingers and palms to give a better grip on the steering wheel).
Put in a new gas tank on my 24 Touring....
Got it in two days from Chaffins on a Wednesday and installed it that weekend; no problem!
No leaks now!
Going back to Ken P's question about the lamps, I bought a set of them for my YPC bus and believe they are one of the
correct ones used on those and several other late teen's early 20's truck applications. Those forks and the
crossbrace shown in these photos are what they used in 1923. Our friend Mr. Butler had some for sale a few months back.
Started fitting the new fenders on the Hack.
Today I decided to play..... I have so really worn out Model T Universal Joints and over the weekend found some needle bearing wit 1 inch outside diameter. So I pulled the UJ apart, machined the pins down to 0.548" on the lathe.
Then I started to install the UJ.
Hopefully I will be able to rivet the whole assembly back together without a problem. I did this on the speedster UJ a number of years ago, seemed to work just fine.
Tony, what set up are you going to use to grease it? PK
It's running in grease, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I think there have been needle bearing conversions that have failed in the past.. maybe the rollers shouldn't run on unhardened steel? Don't know if it's possible to machine down the pins so much so a thin hardened inner race can be fitted?
Finished the wood in the last door after taking a break from the '14 project. I cut the notch for the upholstery panel strainer in the wrong side and had to glue a piece in. Things don't always go as planned.
Did a check fit of my new Anderson manifold to make sure everything lined up. It fit good. PK
Opened the garage door and made sure the T was still there. The operating mechanics on my snow removal machine was not able to get under the packed snow let alone lift it to move it our of the way. Happens when we get older. Oh well, spring is on the way (I hope). NMS will be fine with us.
I worked on the 1919-1925 and the 22 Tie Rod/Shackles assemblies, before you start thinking I've got lots of cars...drawings, I worked on the isometric drawing assemblies for these years.
Cant decide which is more fun, drawing them or working on one. One things sure, one is a whole hell of a lot cleaner than the other, but then with the other, you can drive it when you're done.
Today I shoveled snow again.
Line bored a T block for stroker crank. Rebuilding a Joe Gemsa hill climb engine.
Finished this week, a Model T Cane.........
Finished a Weston and a Jewell HCCT meter for a customer. Below is the BEFORE picture of the Jewell meter.