My 1927 Roadster Turtle Deck side panels are full of holes on the lower rear. Are patch panels available for the lower 24 inches of the two side panels? My wheel wells are rust free but there are rust holes above the wheel wells. The rain gutters are in good shape. What. Sheet metal is available? I have two lower corner patch panels from Howells but the rust is above these two patch panels.
I'm not aware of any patch panels that extend that high. 24" doesn't leave much of the original quarter panel. The panel has only a slight curve before it starts into the top radius. Is there enough of that area left to weld to? You can put a slight arch in a piece over a welding tank then cut it to fit. If rust goes into the upper radius, you'd be better off finding a complete quarter.
The inner fender panels are available from Howell's plus the trunk floor and the center panel below the trunk lid.
I would love to learn how to shape complicated patch panels with an english wheel and a shrinker..
Dan you'd half to make a forming wooden buck. Joe Zimney had one made for the 26-7 turtle. Joe's dead now and his wife would gladly sell it I believe. She lives in Missouri almost to Ava (Antlers)?
You take apart your deck and lay the sides down where you can lay craft paper or clean news print on the panel. Fold darts in it to overlap everywhere it needs to take the form. get each piece to lay comfortably flat and tape it all down. Cut where the darts are on one side only removing one of the overlays (double) to where it is all only one layer of paper. When you have finished laying out all of the places you need to make then remove the paper pattern and untape it folding it flat onto a piece of 20 ga. plain sheet steel (clean) no coatings. Using a magic marker, fine point, trace around the edges. Cut it out with aviation snips or however you are comfortable with. Form it on a couple of stumps. I use one that is rounded on top and another separate stump which I cut out concave with a grinder. Best to use a hardwood stump. Using a couple of body hammers start working the metal into shape on the stumps. you could use just the buck if you had it. Go gently closing the gaps. Soon you'll start to see the shape forming. I gas weld the places where you made those darts using 1/16th steel rod . Using an Oxy/acet torch. Smallest you can find. Jewler's torch works well. I have a Victor jewlers with the pilot on the stand that I relite the torch each time I lift it off of the stand. Use a 00 or 0 tip orifice and a neutral flame. You'll need a way to hold the torch safely while you quench often with a rag with water ( I use a gallon peach can 1/4th full of cool ambient water) but NOT all at once just do a quick quench and then let the steam rise immediately stop and disappear before using the rag again. A little at a time. shrinks the metal and removing the warping. First few times you do it you will swear you'll never learn it but if you keep at it it will start to come to you. If this interests you then call me for more instructions. You'll have to pm me. If not then thanks for my taking up everyone's time here. There is much more to learn but I am not teaching any more in the evening classes where I taught restoration courses. You'll have to learn how to shrink with a hammer, carefully working the metal bumps out, careful grinding just the welds and not the sheetmetal. It is easy but it takes concentration. You'll be proud of what you accomplished too.
Joe in Mo.
Enjoyed reading that panel forming lesson.
kep, I agree, Joseph is a man who knows what restoration really means! KGB
I agree too. Not many know, to wit: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/518153.html?1424005494