You have to love this guy, i hope to be still driving my T at his ripe old age, God love him.. Check out the way he adjusts his coils by the sound of the motor and drives away like its nothing. That's old school!, it may not run great, but he seems very happy, and i think that's all that really matters.
I don't know what part was 1917, for what you can see of the T, she's a real bitts'a.
Yep It's a bitts'a mate !!! 26/27 engine. I'm thinking it's some sorta hack.
George n L.A.
My grandfather told me once he used to drive his T down the street tuning the coils as he went. He said back then the goal was to get and keep them running, and they weren't all that particular how well they ran either, not like we are now. He also told me that back then the dealer (if they had an HCCT) would charge 5 cents a coil, being as cheap as most folks were then just about everybody tuned the coils as they drove and saved the 20 cents for something special, like a movie or supper in town at Pop Hicks.
Tuning coils on the fly would be a hell of a ride in an improved car...
OK, he goofs a bit with the coils when he first starts it up. "Adjusting" or just tapping the points to get it going? Or is it just for show? Plenty of guys did it by ear and/or buzz box and still do. Maybe they do it on the road too (kind of like texting/driving ain't it?). You'll never convince this character about HCCTing unless you install a set of done coils in his car and maybe not even then. The rest of us know better. I agree about not spending the cash back then no matter how small the sum appears today. It runs good. It's OK.
Martin's comment gave a smile, thank you. Yesterday our club had a coil tuning work day. As you would expect, there were "sceptics" there. Last summer I was on a five day tour in the mountains and I averaged just under 30 mpg on my '13 (about 24 to the US gallon). And my car has plenty of power and I can pass about any T on the hills. Yes that car has a "tru-fire", but only because the Heinz coils never were any good. My '27 runs just as well using properly tuned buzz coils on mag. So if you don't mind wasting gas, then don't bother properly tuning your coils.
Consider that back in the day every dealership also sold gas.
We've all heard the expression "penny wise, pound foolish" I think.
It will be interesting to see if coils set on Mike's ECCT will be yet another step above the ones set on a HCCT.
Honestly I've never checked mileage but simply engine performance where set up coils are concerned. There's quite a performance difference and it, of course, depends on the condition of the coils you are running now. Obviously the worse your existing coils are the greater the performance change will be.
I've reconditioned about 25 coils and out of them I believe 2 didn't need further adjusting on an HCC tester so it's possible to hit the mark but not likely. I had a '23 that started hand cranked/ stone cold on mag after installing a set of HCCT'd coils. First time ever (for me any way). Penny wise pound foolish aside if you don't have it to spend your going to look for an out + if it started & ran good that was it.
I like Tim's comment. Couldn't help but chuckle.
Just for conservation I bought a set of rebuilt coils from a well known rebuilder that were adjusted on a hand crank coil tester. They checked and worked fine.
I got them home and installed them in my 24 and had to 'retune' and adjust them to get my car to run smoothly. Never had a problem since.
Woof. Any body else ever hear of having to reset rebuilt HCCT'd coils once installed? No arguing John but that's a first hear for me.
You should have contacted that rebuilder to discuss your problem with his work, and he would have asked you to return the coils so he could determine the defect, if any.
John - You say,....."I got them home and installed them......"
Could it be that in the "getting them home process", one or more of them might have been dropped, bumped or jostled in some manner as to render one or more of them "out of adjustment"?
Just a thought, as I have never heard of a problem like this before,.......harold
Coil troubles are often self induced. Once they have a known good condensor and the point adjustment set to provide only single sparks at the correct current, they just don't go out. I do check mine once a year and only seldom is any tweaking required.
Years ago I had a guy tell me that he swapped to a distributor because "you always have to fool with coils". The reason he had to "fool" with them constantly was because he never had a set correctly set. Even if he would have, he would have fooled with them to start the cycle over.
I thought it could have been a bump or something. It was 2 of them that seemed to have an occasional miss. Its been over a year ago with no other problems. Yes I thought it could have been the coil box, or timer.
After moving them to another cylinder the same thing occurred so I slightly moved the points on the coils a little wider and that was it. Just about a turn was all it took. There is probably several different things that it could have been. All I know its fine now and I didn't think any more about it till I saw the thread.
If he had the lid on the coil box, he might not need to tap them. The lid presses them down and keeps the contact in the right place.
The 17 didn't come with the wide pedals or a starter. Anyway, most people who see that car wouldn't know any difference, and he enjoys driving it.
"Check out the way he adjusts his coils by the sound of the motor and drives away like its nothing. That's old school!"
Back in the '50s I was a teenager w/a model T and that's the advice I got then, "just adjust them until it runs good". Ran OK on battery but wouldn't run on mag. Couldn't find anyone that really knew a lot about Ts at that time.
Unfortunately, there are still plenty of folks out there that don't believe a coil has to be set up with any special equipment, or that a battery and a ammeter are all it takes. There are plenty who think they should take a newly rebuilt coil and make DANG sure the point gap is EXACTLY .031, not understanding that changing the "Adjusting nut" will affect the cushion spring tension and ruin the adjustment of the coil.
I wonder how many people buy a set of points and install them themselves or buy some used coils at a swap meet that 'buzz' but refuse to pay to have them rebuilt, then if their car won't run right, they put a distributor (Or some other system) on it and tell the world what a POS the Model T ignition system is?
Back in 04 I think on the international tour in WI a buddy of mine and I witness a guy in a coupe that was running like crap. He kept messing with the coils until it finally ran "less crappy". We had about seven complete sets of coils that we had rebuilt and set up on the HCCT with us. I told him $100 plus his old coils would fix that. He shot me one of those looks and continued to fight the car for the rest of the week.
I never understood why anyone would spend what he spent to attend that event but wouldn't spend $100 to make the car drivable. I even loaned a set out to one guy and he bought them at the end of the week saying it ran better than it ever had. That guy also bought another set to take home with him.
When I first bought my coils they buzzed. Got them from an old timer who set them up with a "buzz box" Engine ran. I sent them to Ron, who informed me that two of them were unsaveable, even though they buzzed. I bought five from him so I would have a spare, and never regretted it. it ran amazing. Ron even took about an hour on the phone to explain the nuances of the coils and the T ignition system. Proved to me that they need to be properly set up!
When I got my T running, I adjusted the coils to buzz but it didn't run well. I even added a condensor across the top of one of them as the condensor tested poor. The car drove fair then. I finally broke down and sent 5 to Ron 5-6 years ago. Now it runs like I added a cylinder. he also magnetized a set of magnets for me before I learned how to do it myself. THANK YOU, RON.