Figured the other thread was getting long again, Seemed to be a Monthly change over, so here is the March edition.
I started getting my billet aluminum wheel adapters attached to my TT hubs. These are so I can run a more "modern" drop center rim for my agricultural tractor tires on my doodlebug. Not period correct by any means, but you won't see them once painted black.
So today was spent dial indicating the adapters to center, then clamped them in place. I think .005" run out is pretty good.
Plowed snow at my place and my 88 y.o. neighbors, he has a horseshoe drive in front and a 250' long stone driveway leading back to his barn behind the place. Twice. Kept me busy! Oh yeah, I did look in on the cars out in my barn!
Chad, Do you think that .005 run-out is too much. Could it cause a "high speed wobble" ....
Ha Ha. Actually I have measured modern car wheels and find if they are within .030-.050" max they are pretty good--you can start to see the wheel move around at about .035-.040". Of course the tolerances do stack up when separate pieces get involved and bolted together. I wonder what most wood T wheels run out at........
Next step is to use a couple of roll pins to mate the parts together so they always go back on in the same spot. Then I will drill the hubs for the bolts for the adapter.
Removed all 4 wheels from my original 1912 touring today. Removed all the old fellows and spokes to get the rims and hubs shipped to Ohio.
Sending them to Mel's for new fellows and spokes. I tried to keep it local and use the wheel guy in Washington state, but his price is out of site at $450 per wheel, where Mel's price is $200 each.
I thought I must have heard wrong so I called him to confirm and yes his price for t wheels is $450. Not only that but he got real pissy when I had the nerve to question his price.
So my wheels are off to Mel tomorrow and they will be waiting for me at Bakersfield. I will have them back on the touring in plenty of time for the national tour in Calgary.
Spent some time photographing and measuring the aftermarket pickup bed I got from Donnie Brown this weekend.
I made sketches and notes, and put a lumber materials list together. I'll salvage and re-use the steel parts and replicate all the wood using the old pieces as a pattern.
Spent a good part of today making temporary shims to get SOME drag on the ring gear in a Ruckstell I am doing. Right now I have 4 layers of bond paper between the carrier and thrust washer on the passenger side (= about .018) and two thickness of copper between the thrust bearing and lock plate (=.010). Tomorrow I will get brass or steel shim stock and make correct ones. Needs just a little more so when I put the gasket between the half's it will be about right. I wondered why there were shims behind the thrust bearing but I don't want to keep taking the thrust bearing off and on for fitting.
Sat. I spent putting a REAL door into my shop.
I took the roadster out for pictures, readjusted the reverse band, and filled the side lamps and tail light.
Looks and sounds great Steve, and your dog didn't seem too upset you using his run line for a little added traction..
Mike, Hope to see the bed redone and on your roadster soon. Keep us posted on your progress. Chad Im not sure where I read it but I think the wobble on a T wheel was considered OK at 3/8 inch. That's a lot of those little bitty thousandths .
Mike, that is a cool box!! Kind of a shame to replace that wood with new but I understand the deal. Good find.
Put this hooter-dotter together to remove and install field coils, the little press came from the scrap yard. The 1/2 square stock makes if easy to set the gear pin. Could not find a straight bit socket, ended up grinding a 1/2 Allen socket for the driver.
I pulled the motor from my shooting brake, with some modifications to the firewall to allow the pan ears to clear. The break in the crankshaft is just in front of no2 rod journal. Fortunately, the block is undamaged but I was surprised to see a small piece broken out of the timing cover, partially exposing the rope seal. The reason became obvious on the teardown. Two, maybe three loud clunks before I could kill the motor and coast to a stop, were probably the two pieces of the crankshaft getting past one another at the break. This resulted in the short front piece of the shaft taking such a hammering that the front main bearing has been wallowed out so much that the shaft rocks in the journal. I am up for a reground EE crankshaft and new main bearings.
Son Anthony is not exactly crowing, but his two breaks did no bearing damage and both just needed replacement shafts.
Now is a good time to fix the leaking radiator!!
Allan from down under.
Somehow I think that the ancient wooden pickup bed should be preserved *as is* and instead build a new one using new *reproduced* irons.
Just can't get real antique, original stuff anymore...don't destroy it.
John & Stan -- The wood looks better in the pictures than it actually is. I'm all for preservation when possible, but this wood is pretty far gone. It's soft and crumbly. BTW, that's the tail gate you see at the far end of the pics. The front end of the bed is MIA.
I know I'm crazy, but I just can't part out this TT. I'm going to preserve it because I love the old junk wood seats and bed. Probably *improve* it with adding more *antique* wood to complete the seat and bed maintaining the style.
In defense of Mike and the wood bed. The wood is just too far gone. It is very soft and brittle. It was falling apart just loading it to take it to Mike. It has the strength of "cork". The sad thing is I went to an auction in Neb about 20 or more years ago with another T collector. He bought this bed out of a barn in what looked to be NOS condition. We brought it back to Arkansas and he just let it sit outside and uncovered all those year It sat on a T chassis till I bought it about 5 years ago from the property owner who made the T guy move. Mike please post a pic of the tail gate and latches. That is the neat end. I have only seen one other bed with that type of latches. And does anyone know what the small triangle (somewhat triangle) shaped block on the sides of the bed are for. I never figured out what they were for. I thought it may have something to do with fenders, ???
Was thinking the same thing about that bed, but if Donnie says it was that bad, it must have been beyond saving. I LOVE that TT and what you are planning on doing with it.
John -- That truck will make some interesting "yard art," and I'm all for what you're going to do with it.
But this pickup bed is destined for use on my restored '21 Runabout, and its condition needs to be comparable to the rest of the car's.
Here are a couple of pics of the latches for Donnie. You can see that about 4" of both ends of the tailgate are beveled to fit the latches.
With regard to my *yard art*...no, it is going to be a running orchard truck...buckboard seat and all....made from rustic parts.
Mike, if you use a torch to heat the nuts to a "dull red" and then "quench them with water" you may be able to save most of the bolts if the stems of the bolt are not too rusty. . By "quenching" them they do not soften up and loose there "temper" Quench them just as they lose their "red glow" I make a shield from a piece of thin metal with a hole in it to fit around the nut and somewhat protect the wood from flareing up too bad. Since this wood is real bad it probably does not matter much anyway. I have not had very good luck with penetrating oil on carriage bolts ... But you may be better at it than I am ...
John - I knew exactly where you were going with it when you said "preserve it." Am looking to do the same thing you are (only as a "yard vehicle TT" - I don't have an orchard).
Is there supposed to be some kind of lever/handle to raise the latch, or do you just pull it up?
The best way to find a problem !
If you can't find it then go to the MTFCA Forum.
I LIKE that latch. Very clever. It appears that there is a turned extension above the area of the spring, is that where one would push down to release the latch, instead of pulling up on the "point" of the latch? Or is the turned extension there to limit upward movement of the spring and to keep it captured?
I trailered my 1915 to AZ and spent nearly a month down there driving the heck out of it.
I took the A out for a drive to town yesterday. It'd needed gas. ;)
Ill answer for Mike, since I owned it longer than he has . To open the tail gate you "grasp" both ends of the tail gate with each hand, and "push" the latches "up" with your thumbs, then pull the tailgate open. They are lightly spring loaded to always be "latched" They are a very neat and simple design...
John McG -- Sorry, I misunderstood your intentions. No offense meant.
Toon, reading "Prutswenken"?
I didn't feel any offense at all...it will just be functional yard art. Now I need a rusty engine to match...shouldn't be hard to find. Today's project.
Nice picture Toon.
I worked in the shop for the first day since last Fall. 30 to 40 degrees but doable. It is a whole different set of demons and misplaced tools out there than in the basement where I've been working all winter.
I disassembled 3 door latches for cleaning and new springs as necessary. I will replace the handles with some that look like '14's until I can get the right latches squared away.
Last Friday at the Elementary school where I work we celebrated the 100th day of school. As part of the celebration, the staff was encouraged to dress as if we were 100 years old. So I found a old cardigan, an ugly polyester tie and dressed up. Of course before dressing I put on some Ben-Gay to add to the kids olfactory enjoyment.
I also decided to bring a 100 year old car as well.
It was fun to use a strained voice and say things like, "You young whippersnappers..." and "Hey, you kids, get off my lawn!"
Here I am with the Attendance Secretary.
: ^ )
Damm Keith, you have aged well!
I fixed some ineptly installed tacks in my top.
Then I did some polishing.
Finished up the work on my homemade "Fatman" steering wheel. The center is made from 2 stock spiders and the rim is mahogany.
Nice! Any details on how you made it?
Bob, nice job. how about some closer pics of the latch and hinge. Some of us may want to "borrow" your idea.
Wow, Bob, that's just the right kind of inspiration for us with more tinkering time than money
Got he big crank stuffed into the Gemsa race engine.
Today I removed all the steel hardware from the aftermarket pickup bed I got from Donnie Brown and sandblasted most of it.
I still need to blast the tailgate hinge parts, which I'll do tomorrow. I'll also pick up the lumber (Poplar) from the hardwood company tomorrow which I'll use to replace all the old rotten stuff.
Dang Erik. Will that little T block generate enough juice to turn that monster?
Here are some more pictures of the steering wheel. The latch is a 5/16 bolt running through 2 heavy washers into another washer welded to the base that bolts to the steering shaft. The hinge is made of a piece of 1/2" round stock with a 1/4" hole drilled in it welded to the upper spider and a U shaped piece of channel welded to the base. I trimmed the bolt and acorn nut so when tight they provide enough friction to hold the wheel in the upright position. A 1 1/4" hole saw fits just right to remove the center from the top spider. I welded the spokes to the centers for strength, and wherever I had to remove a rivet, I countersunk the hole and filled it with weld, then ground it flush. I had to elongate the center hole to clear the steering wheel nut, so I brazed a reinforcement to the bottom of the center hole cut from cutoff pieces of the base spider. The closeups are a little blurry, sorry, but my camera won't focus well that close.
Nice work Bob, Thanks for the photos. Just for information, If your camera does not do very good close-up Macro shots, there is another way to get extreme close-ups. Go ahead and take your photos as normal, but stay far enough away to be in focus. (take several as they do not cost anything) Then if you have a means to crop your photos on your computer or whatever you use. Just crop the photo down to what you were wanting to zoom in on in the first place. A lot of times the cropped version is better than a macro version because the "depth of field" is larger than a macro/zoom, and everything stays in focus. Your mileage may vary, but it works for me ... (submitted with respect, Donnie Brown)
That is slick Bob, Thank You for the photos and explanation.
Henry, we are expecting to turn that crank quite rapidly. The block is bored to the outer limits. The engine will have displacement equal to a model A. Upstairs there will be a Joe Gemsa eight port cross flow overhead at 9.5:1 compression and a brace of Stromberg 97's. Using a C4 Ford automatic trans, so removal of the heavy T trans will bring the rotating mass back down closer to T specs. It will not be a touring engine, but a high strung brute will a short life expectancy, though an exciting one it will be. Can post pics of the build as it happens if there is interest. I should mention that no otherwise usable T parts will used on this project. In fact, it is likely that the only T parts on this car will be the block and frame rails.
Did a bit of carburetor cleaning.
Uncovering the vent
Removing the spray nozzle
Cleaning out passages
I found that the plastic (rubber?) tipped needle didn't want to drop, no matter how hard I blew. This is the second carburetor I've found with this problem lately. So I looked through my little stash of needles and found some metal tipped ones. I think I'll use the third or fourth type (three-sided) because it will be easy to put it in a drill chuck and turn it smooth.
That's cool Erik. If you can please post a video of it running when you get to that point.
Will certainly give it a try. Just now getting comfortable with posting pics from iPad.
I tried smoothing an old valve needle.
The finest abrasive I had was some 800 grit sandpaper. I hope that got it smooth enough to seat.
Steve, I have heard of and used a trick the old timers did. It is to "tap" The needle "into the seat". I have done it several times and I rotate the needle to 3 or 4 different locations as I "tap" it. Has always worked for me. but Im just a poor hillbilly from Arkansas, so no guarantees
Steve, Judging by the old threads about bad needles, I would say that is good. Especially seeing how the "new" ones still had machining marks in them.
Still working on my rear hubs for my doodle bug. I have only been spending about 20-30 minutes a night so I don't get very far.
Just finished up my magnet charger, now I can charge the magnets for my coil tester project.
I think I would put a lot longer battery leads on and put the battery's in a different room in case they pull too many amps, over heat and go boom. Even when I use the coil ring to do em, I make sure the battery's are a good distance away and covered loosely with a sheet of plywood.
What size is the coil inside the windings? About how much/lbs and what size wire? How did you come up with the single coil setup?
For sure let us know how it works.
you can smooth the needle up by using an "oil stone" the stone carpenters use to sharp their chisels but for me it should work as it is.
Andre, i had the same thought. never done it but i would try to get the stone onto the tool post on the lathe
Mark, I started with a coil of wire from a transformer but could not get it to work. I then used the iron from my first attempt and some #12 machine wire I had bought off of Craigs list several years ago and wound a total of 330 wraps around the core. The core is about 2" X 3" X 5" with just a 12V battery and three to four zaps of about 5 seconds it will pick 3# from the side. The idea for the single core I found in the 2010 forum it was posted by Anthonie Boer. Jim
Last night my very good friend Ken LeBlanc at Merrimack Valley Tire , 45 Hilldale Ave, Haverhill, MA 01832, who has been helping me all winter in rebuilding the entire drive train of my 1926 Model T Ford coupe started reassembling the engine. Already we have completely rebuild the rear end and transmission.You would be hard-pressed to find a friend or mechanic who has the same level of expertise that Ken at Merrimack Valley Tire provide for any vehicle, especially Model T Fords.
Today, i decided to dig out my little shed where my T resides for the winter, and check in on the old girl. After over 100 inches of snow this winter and record low temps, i think we have finally turned the corner. I know that there are lots of folks here on the forum that have been suffering through this miserable winter too, especially here in New England, but happy days will soon be here again.
machined old gen. gear for generator tester.
The threads were mostly gone on my new Anderson manifold so I borrowed an idea and made a flange to securely attach the tail pipe. I threaded the flange what good thread was left and used a set screw to stop rotation. PK
Painted a running board tool box;
blasted top parts;
painted top parts.
For the last 3 or 4 days, I've been working on the pickup bed for my '21 Runabout. I showed some pics of the bed I bought from Donnie Brown on another thread. A Model T buddy here has a '21 with an original aftermarket bed on it, so I looked at both designs and combined some features from both. I really like the way it turned out. Here are some pics:
The framework for the one from Donnie was nailed together and rather crude. Since I've been a woodworker for more than 40 years, I couldn't bring myself to nail this one.
I mortised the pieces together and secured them with brass screws (slotted, of course). The guy at my local old-time bolt and screw supply store says I'm about the only one who still buys slotted screws.
Sometimes it's hip to be square.
Here it is with the floor added.
And with the sides and front board.
Yesterday I made and fitted the flare boards but didn't take any pics at that point. Today I made the tailgate and cleaned up and painted all the hardware for that. I'll get it all fitted tomorrow and post some more pics then.
Mike, Looking real good. I always felt like the lower framework may have been owner built years ago. Possibly for use on a cut off touring or whatever. I feel like the factory parts of the bed just sat on top of the stock model T roadster deck. But I never knew for sure how all the stuff works together. Yours looks really nice. Will you be able to go back and forth between pickup and roadster fairly easily . ?? I also like your use of Popular Lumber instead of Oak. I think it is more correct that way. And if you paint it, the Popular Lumber takes paint very well. See ya at Chickasha.
I wish I had your woodworking skills! I hope you are planning to drive that to Petit Jean so I can see it in person.
Finally got off my lazy arse and went to get the paperwork squared away for the 26 TT.
I have my correct, truck specific year-of-mfr plate and everything in order, and was told
by the very helpful DOL clerk that we need to determine the weight of the vehicle from
an online or printed source. And it had to be for the exact truck, as outfitted. "Chassis"
listings (easy to find) were not acceptable. My other option is to take the truck to a scale
and get it weighed ... no small feat with the hours I am working. Since I mothballed it in
the back of the shop for the winter, I put it on a trickle charger so I can troubleshoot a non-
working starter/switch to ensure an easier start, should I have to shut it off. Maybe by
next week I can have this old dog all legal and back on the road ?
Need to find a proper rearview mirror and a spare tire carrier for those long road trips.
Does your bed use the turtle deck mounting holes? I have the remains of a Perry P/U bed I'm thinking of putting on Barney (my '25 roadster), as the turtle deck is in pretty sorry shape compared to the rest of him. I was gong to put a Ford P/U bed on him, but that one requires a number of holes drilled into the body & I don't want to do that! (In case I go back to the turtle deck)
David -- I drilled holes vertically through the long side pieces of the framework down into the main sills of the body. Then I put 6" lag bolts in there to secure the bed. The other holes for the turtle are still there, whenever I want to put it back on. But I must say, I'm liking the bed more all the time. I might not switch it back to the turtle.
Paul & Donnie -- Yes, the Pickup will be making the drive to PJ in June. I'll see you both there. I was initially going to paint the wood black, but then decided it wouldn't look good that way since the paint will be a different kind than the rest of the car. So I'm going with gray instead. Green was the most popular color for truck bodies and beds "back in the day," but I don't care for the green color. I think gray probably was the second-most popular color for them, and I like the contrast with the black car parts and bed hardware. And as my wife said, "Gray will pick up on the color of the wheel rims."
Mike, great wood work! Coach Butler would be proud of you.
A little OT. I finish making the Woodruff key that holds the small timing gear onto the crank shaft of the Model N Engine I am rebuilding.
Today I had a little fun driving the doodlebug around and I adjusted the rod between the carb and steering column so that when the carb was closed, the lever by the steering wheel would also be all the way up in the closed position. Before it was about a third way down when the carb was closed, and made for some confusing moments.
Mike, I am soooo jealous of that fantastic wood working your doing. It looks great!!
Mike, you have done some beautiful work on your pickup box. Well done. That said, I am hesitant to offer the following advice. An old time carpenter insisted that I leave a gap between the floorboards in my timber bodies to allow swelling when the bed gets wet. Commercial bodies use a gap between each straight sided board. He suggested for a neater job a half lap joint is better. This means that if your boards are 1" thick then a rebate of just more than 1/2" is taken out of each edge. When the boards are fitted with the recommended gap, there is a gap top and bottom between the boards and a similar gap on the horizontal between them, allowing water to run through the floor.
Your wide boards would need a wider gap, perhaps as much as 1/8". However, given that you intend to paint the box, if the timber is sealed well, all you may need is a drain hole in each corner.
Hope this helps. I have seen a tray made with tongue and grooved hardwood boards clamped hard up as in a house floor, and when it got wet it tore itself apart when it got really wet.
Burger - You mention above that you need a proper rearview mirror for your TT closed cab.
On my TT C Cab I used a Depot Hack outside mirror (available from the vendors) on the left side, mounted up high just below the roof covering. By mounting it high like that I don't hit it with my head getting in & out & it works great.
Allan -- Thanks for your concern. I intend to seal up the boards well enough that the wood itself will never get wet. I finished fitting the rest of the boards today, so now my next task is to take everything apart and paint it, edges and ends and all.
Here is a pic taken yesterday with the flare boards installed. I mentioned earlier that I combined features of two different beds. The one on my buddy's pickup had flare boards which fitted down onto the side boards, and I liked that so I did mine that way.
Another feature of that bed was that the sides extended a bit past the front and echoed the curve of the Runabout body. I liked that too.
I fitted the tailgate today. Here are some pics of it and the latches.
The latches are taller than the sides, and they originally fit into the gap between the flare boards and the sides. You can imagine my surprise when I tried to put them in place. It took a bit of head scratching to figure out how to make them work. I had to inlay the bottoms of the latches into the tail board and into the flare boards. It's always something!
So, now that I have it all built, all I have left to do is take it completely apart so I can "ease" the sharp edges, then prime and paint using oil-based primer and enamel. Then put it all back together. And I still have 3 months until I need it for the drive to Petit Jean, so I'm way ahead of schedule!
Thanks to all for your compliments. I don't get to do much woodworking any more, so it was a lot of fun for me, making some sawdust again.
I thought the same thing. I've seen house floors arch up like a cats back due to seasonal humidity changes. All were sealed front, back, edges and ends. The old flooring guys knew to let the Kiln dried lumber "season" a while to normalize the woods moisture content before laying it.
I'm sure Mike knows what he's doing. Poplar is pretty stable wood.
Don't forget to strip and paint the nuts & bolts.
But Steve, don't you think they look pretty being all shiny?
Um .... no. They look as appropriate as hex nuts and philips screws.
Mike that's beautiful. The only thing I'd do different is have a gap between the flare boards and the side boards but that's just me. I've always like the way that looks with the gap.
I"m with Seth on the gap between the flare boards and the sides. The flare board then acts as a tie rail if you have a load to restrain.
Allan from down under.
Today I caught up on lubrication, changed the awl last week. Today it was the axle/steering/springs/ujoint/drained n filled pumpkin/and anything else that looked like it needed it,linkage and stuff.
Then took it for a 6 mile spin.
The sides of my Perry bed are curved like that, maybe your friend's bed is a Perry. Mine is missing the bottom base wood, so I'm looking at yours pretty closely!
That bed is a work of art. The only thing you may want to consider is to inlay two small pieces if steel plate where the tailgate latch contacts the tail board to prevent the steel latch from rubbing a hole or groove in the board. Again this bed is beautiful.
I came later so I'm sure other folks would label me Seth #2 or #3, but Dennis! Lol, check out the last two picks again. Exactly what you are talking about is there. Two metal pieces at an angle on the tailgate - it's easier to see in the picture from behind the car than the close up.
Mike, once you get everything painted you need one of those Ford radiator emblems on the tailgate. =)
While you all were sleeping with the help of friends Ken, Paul and Chet I was busy installing my transmission, pistons and rings! Now I'm looking forward to:
I was getting this obnoxious slow drip from my radiator inlet hose where it connects to the head outlet. I had moved the hose around and clamped it - screwed it tight to the point of expecting the clamp to bust. Still drips.
So! When I recently had the radiator off while scraping the carbon off the pistons/head I decided to look at what was up with that drip. The casting on my outlet neck was really rough - especially on the bottom side the raised ring, it had a big bump and then a dip. I figured that was my culprit. But the whole ring was pretty rough.
I took a file to whole ring and didn't remove it but filed it nice and smooth all the way around. No more valleys for the fluid to sneak through. Worked like a charm! No more drips. =)
David D. -- I can take some pics of that other bed if they would be useful to you. It would be a few days, but I'd be happy to do it. That bed is a few inches narrower than this one, so the curves on it look really nice mirroring the shape of the body.
David -- I re-read your post and now think you were referring to the framework portion of the bed which I made up of 2x4's. His doesn't have that framework. There are some 2x3's (approx.) which fit crosswise on the rear portion of the car body, but that's all. The floor boards attach to those. That makes his bed lighter weight and lower than mine. It really is a nice, efficient design. It uses latches similar to those which Lang's sells.
For John McGinnis
I know where the is a TT in worse condition that what you brought home. And it was the last
Vehicle to come off the line 31 July 1923. It is here on the east coast about 800 to 1000 miles from my house. My brother says it has worm gear rear end. Not ever having looked at a TT, I would not know if that was normal or not.
Finally finished my speedster project and took it out on the road. All went well except for the jerks trying to take pictures with their cell phones while driving. God must really like stupid people because he sure made a lot of them!
MTFCA.com to the rescue ! Looked in the encyclopedia section and found a weight
detail that the DOL would buy off on, so today I helped fund my State politicians'
favorite projects to the tune of eight and a half fun tickets, and walked out all legal.
From there, I went out to Antique Auto Ranch to discuss issues with the truck, buy
some bubs, and rifle through a lot of rusty bits to find parts to build an appropriately
unsexy mirror for the truck. I seem to have power on both sides of my starter switch,
so that is tonight's troubleshooting project. Time to go plug up traffic with this old dog.
Took the Touring and Roadster out for a run yesterday. About 40 miles worth and both ran beautifully!
Worked on some HCCT (Hand Cranked Coil Tester) meters. I have two Westons and one Jewell in progress for stock.
Troubleshot the no werkum starter and found the starter no respondum to
direct juice. Coils stop buzzing when starter switch is depressed, and things
got to smelling hot in a hurry when I jumped the switch posts, so I went through
the paces to pull the starter. Got it in a tray, ready for further dissection as
soon as I can get to it.
I know these T's are pretty simple in terms of tech, but my inexperience has
me a little concerned about damaging things when I go taking stuff apart.
Worked hard on getting my covered trailer ready for the trip to Chickasha OK. Had a trailer brake light out and the rest was just checking tires and a general inspection for problems.
Next I put some temporary rugs on the floor and a fold up bed.
This will be my HOTEL for about 4 days. Chickasha has had showers, toilet and other facilities enough to keep me happy. Also food vendors during most of the day.
Finished 5 coils for a friend in Evergem.
Had a helping hand from my grand daughter.
Attempted to brave some cold today and went into the garage and outside for a little bit.
My auxiliary Buick transmission on my doodlebug was missing a inspection cover. I picked up a small piece of galvanized sheet from the local metal supply that was already cut the right width. I trimmed and rounded the edges, a couple of bolt holes and done. Chased the holes in the trans, added anti seize to the bolts and tightened it down.
I resembled (:0)) my '14 body outside and in the garage and tried out some patterns and textures for the paint. You may recall the sheet metal was poor on this car. The T frame dolly has been used on most of my T projects.
Spent about two hours looking for a wheel bearing I knew I had for a Ford tractor. Could have bought a new one in 30 minutes for less than ten bucks but I KNEW I had one in a box of parts somewhere. As soon as I saw the box I knew it was in there. Good to go now.
Serviced the timer, cleaned and gaped the plugs on the 14 and then went for a drive.
Re-lining shoes for the TT. I've never done this before but I think they'll do the job.
Painted some Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer on the inside of some wheels I have for the doodlebug to hopefully seal the rust up a little. I want to keep the patina on the outside so I have to do what I can so the tubes hopefully will last.
I'll paint the topcoat in a couple days.
Polished brass all day. This torpedoes going to kill me.
Took the 26 out for a very long drive today.
Dug up some lodgepole pines and early blooming wildflowers for my yard
along the way. Got the truck good and muddy, as it should be (no polishing
brass for this guy), and when the wife came home, took her out to dinner in
the old dog.
I see a real problem with these T's .... how can you tell which vehicle is
Repaired my first generator today,it came with some other parts I bought,it would motor but no charge,ended up some one didn't cross field wires.
Built this tester to check Mdl. A's also.
Yesterday I painted the wheels for the front of my T doodlebug.
Today I squared up the back of the cut off frame so I can weld on a new rear crossmember maybe this weekend.
We are coming to the end of the big fix. After 54 years I broke the crank so for the past year and a bit we have changed the crank and cam, installed a new rebuilt front axle. new doubled wish bone. Re worked the turn signals, made a new set of floor boards,revarnish the wheels, install brass valve stems on the tubes, and working on the side curtains. We have had one last bast of winter so it's almost time to cruise here. Cheers Colin
Mike Walker, here's a suggestion for your beautiful truck bed.:
Install (imbed?) metal striker plates where your latches hit the tailgate when you close it....and maybe even on the outside where the hooks hold the gate shut.
Hal -- The top of the tailgate has steel striker plates where the latches contact it. I've been considering adding a small plate on the outside where the latch holds the gate as you suggest, and also a strip along the top edges of the flare boards.
I put it all back together yesterday and will attend to a couple of details and post pics later today.
Okie Dokie -- Here's the finished product, ready for the road!
I think it's ready for a load of rocks.
Nice job, Mike !
Mike, That looks great! Could you send me some detail pics of the tailgate hinges and how they are attached? You can email them to me if you wish: crazydart400 AT yahoo.com
As far as me today, I had a long day at work, so I came home to watch the paint finish drying on my wheels for the front of the doodlebug. Hopefully this weekend will get some tires mounted up.
It got to a sizzling 46 degrees here today, so i took advantage, and installed the rear-end i rebuilt over the winter.
Mike thanks for the posts on your truck bed and some inspiration, it is a very fine job. I think you were wise to dado the frame together it adds quite a bit of rigidity. Where the front follows the body is an excellent touch.
I built a trailer a few years ago not so nice as yours, but I don't have a nice T' to put it on either. So far it has not gotten a tailgate, I had thought I might make/find some more typical forged hooks but the sheet metal parts of yours might be easier to make and are obviously a period correct look so this might be a project for the Easter weekend.
Sorry I no pictures with out kids or adults that look like kids... the bench looks unsupported but runs on top of the rail right to the front and even with multiple adults off road has proven to be quite tough
Looks great Mike!!
John N, That rear end looks fantastic. Are your seal retainers home made or a vendor purchase? Jim
Thanks James, i initially pulled it apart to see if i had the proper thrust washers, and realized it needed a complete overhaul. The seal retainers are available from Lang's or Snyders..a little pricey, but well worth it in my opinion.
I drove the 14 Touring to Golden CO and had lunch at Sonic.
Bored my first forth main today.
Nice to be able to fit transmission.
Did the unthinkable today. Worked on something of mine! Rebuilt the generator on my dump truck and put on a fun projects regulator. Have to run to the dump, and pick up some gravel on the way home. If this pic is upside down, could someone repost it right side up for me? If it happens that way, I'll just invert every pic I post in the future. Still learning new iPad.
Went to the market for some vittles, Let a guy take pics with his three kids in the car.
Did my posted photo appear inverted to you? Both my original posting and yours are right side up on my iPad.
Can you post a close up shot of the mirror bracket as
it attaches to the door hinge ? That is my next project.
Will post a shot of the mirror in the sunlight tomorrow.
Today I attacked a number of problems.
Untangled a wire "nest" with a new block.
Then I replaced the wiper blade (no photo).
Then I removed the handbrake assembly and replaced the ratchet pall.
Interesting, in that it appeared the right side had never been disturbed
since new. The left side was missing the cotter pins, and as I could not
locate my jar of them, I used the classic twisted tie wire in a way that
would make Henry proud.
With my clodhopper feet (size 13), it will be a real joy to not have "Henry's
Helper" in my way getting in every time !
Next was the big task. Riding in this thing is a tad noisy. Like being rolled
around a gravel pit inside a 55 gallon steel drum. The worst offender is the
rattling doors. I explored replacing the rubber bumpers, but it appears these
are TT only and not reproduced. So, I am experimenting with cut polyfoam
blocks and seem to have found a decent stand in. Trouble is, the latches and
strikes are terribly worn. After some discussion with the guys at Antique Auto
Ranch, I decided to do some weld build ups and reforming to get both pieces
back into original shape. As I had guests drop by, I forgot to take pix of the
"after" product, but the right side turned out solid and very rattle-free. The
driver's door required a lot more work and will need some machine screws
replaced in the AM to finish the job, but all-in-all, I got all my projects done
and can start looking for more to get dialed in !
Deeply worn latch tongue:
Weld filled and ready for shaping back to proper form:
Naturally, I took the opportunity to clean and lube the mechanisms and give
the black parts a fresh coat of paint.
Steve, don't know about that grit, but if you want something finer, try taking two pieces of 600 wet/dry and rubbing them together, to break it. That'll give you the equivalent of 1000 grit...it's an old body and fender trick that my father taught me, I use all the time (mostly on paint, but it works on metal too, great way to take out surface scars from a straightening or dent removal job on a stainless steel Model A headlight bucket before the finish buffing).
Mike, the bed looks nice. Hope to se it at Petitt Jean in June.
Mounted up my tires for the front of the '22 doodlebug. I used cheap, but new space saver spare tires and they are mounted on 17" 1935 Chevy 1/2 ton wheels. I have about $130 into the pair of wheels, tires, and tubes. Still pretty cheap for a set of rolling stock I think.
Another thing on mounting, I picked up some Napa RuGlyde tire lubricant. It works Infinitely WAY better than Silicone spray or WD40. A gallon is $15, which will probably outlast you, it really doesn't take much and makes a huge difference in ease of mounting.
I took about a 150-mile ride with 2 other T buddies. (Rob, one of them was in a '24 Tudor. ) The third one had no working lights, so he was getting a little nervous late in the day. We didn't get back until nearly 7:00, but it was still light enough.
We had a lovely tour through the hills and dales of NW Arkansas. Even stopped for a break at Frog Bayou. Beautiful!
Here is a closeup of the mirror
Link to April:
Eric -- You're upside-down again.
Oh boy, .... that's not a piece I can beat into shape from flat
metal ! :-P I was imagining something more square and flat sided.
I would prefer not to drill any holes in the sheetmetal to mount
this dude, but it may be the simplest route.
Thanks for posting that.
Somewhere west of Laramie .... or perhaps east of Laramie ? ...
.... someone decided to use the radiator cap as a pulling point
to help load my truck during shipment. Bad idea, Mr. Obvious !
Been a leaking dog ever since arrival. So, I decided last night
was the night to pull the radiator and run it out to a local shop for
some diagnostics and repair. It still cools fine, but I'd like to lose
the water pump and not have coolant to clean up in the shop all
Gents this thread is getting really long with lots of photos, we've started a new one "What did you do today #4 April" so we can keep it going but without making the folks with slower internet have to load so many pics.
Burger, this is what I did on my TT. I got the mirror at the Auto Ranch. I milled a wedge shaped mount to cut down on wind drag, more speed. Mounting it up high also keeps me from knocking my hat off while working on that side. PK
Mike Walker - Looking at that picture in Zac Carrico's 3/27 09:55 post above with that load of little kids, that big guy riding with the kids makes me think of something:
As much as I like the looks of that beautiful pick-up bed you built, I think I'd consider adding one more piece of strap iron from each top bolt of the flare boards, down to the each bolt on the cross beams, to sort of "triangulate" your hardware. Six of them would be a snap to make with a hacksaw, a hole and slight bend at each end. Those would add a lot of strength to those support irons in case some big guy (or big kid) decided to sit on top of one of the flare boards. (.....that would add six tie-down points too.....) Just a thought,..........harold