It sure seemed like fuel starvation, but I checked my plugs, ignition timing, and timer anyway. All that checked out OK. Still, it took lots of choking and turning the needle toward rich and multiple pulls of the crank to get going. I changed carburetors, cleaned out the one that I put on the car, and made sure there was plenty of fuel flow from the tank and into the carb. No matter what I did it took lots of cranking to get started. Tuesday being rather mild outside I took the car out for a run, and when I was stopping at the corner I noticed this.
Before coming to a stop you use engine braking to slow down, meaning the throttle lever goes all the way up. But it won't go all the way up. With the throttle fully closed, the lever is still three or four notches down. Without noticing that, I've been raising the lever to three or four notches down when I start, just by sight, without realizing that doing so was fully closing the throttle. Could that be a problem in starting? Yep. I started the car several times today with the lever farther down. It didn't fire on the first pull every time, but usually did by the third pull. Much better. Now I need to experiment and find what combination of throttle setting and needle adjustment makes for the easiest starting.
How did the throttle control get this way? Beats me. Before I had the engine out for a rebuild, and to repair the frame, the lever went all the way up. I suspect I may have accidentally installed a longer rod when I put the engine back in. That should be easy to correct. Anyway, I'm glad to have easier starting on both BAT and MAG, even if it took forever to find out how.
You changed carburetors. The lever on the carburetor is bent just a little differently than the old one was.
I had the same thing when dad tried a diff carb bent the lever to fit carb rod. and I had to get another one.
George n L.A.
Both of mine are off a little bit, but not THAT much. I try to remember to bring both levers all the way up when shutting down. Not for this reason, but since you bring it up, I can see where it would minimize the chances of this happening.
On a similar note, I have a fair amount of slop in my spark advance. I have it set to where I get the proper amount of retard when bringing the lever to the top, but when I move it down, it goes 3-4 notches before the timer begins to move. I should probably fix it, but I seem to get enough advance, so I don't let it bother me.
On my doodlebug, I made a new throttle rod from the column to carb. It fit great. What I failed to take into account was that I had never fired up the engine with the new carb on it, so once I got the idle speed corrected, I noticed the same thing as you Steve. I will be making a new rod when the weather gets warmer. It is something that annoys me a lot--and I too initially had some hard starting issues---although I don't think nearly as bad as you were having and posting about.
Holley NH throttle arms come in two flavors - early = long & later = short.
Hand-cranking seems to require equal parts of caution, conservatism and knack. -
Caution, because you're standing directly in front of a car that's about to roar to life and is known for moving forward when that happens. -Conservatism, because anybody acquainted with machinery realizes that high RPMs on startup won't do good things for an engine, particularly a splash-lubricated one — and, in this case, the throttle won't be immediately accessible. -Knack, because... well, that's what's required when starting an engine with as little throttle as possible. -Heck, it'd be a whole lot easier if we could just open the throttle two-thirds of the way and let 'er rip.
Like Steve, I prefer the throttle to close before hitting the stop for the same reason I like the pedals to run out of travel before hitting the floorboards.