Quick chage band question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Quick chage band question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 05:45 pm:

I am putting the quick change bands on my rebuilt trans. witch side should the removable ear be on. Left or right. PS. If you are thinking of using a scat crank be ready for a lot of grinding.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 06:03 pm:

Removable ears on LH side. Did you have to grind on more than the nut bracket for the inspection lid in the oil pan?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 06:21 pm:

Oh yeah. Had to relieve the insp. cover, the pan, the rod cap bolts, they touched the pan, and the 3rd main cap in two places, one to install the trans bolts and two, those same bolts would touch the main cap as it rotated. oh and had to work the oil tube for clearance.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 06:43 pm:

Is it a stroker crank with 4.25" stroke and larger journals?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker, Ramona, CA on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:20 pm:

I am just rebuilding the speedster engine which uses a Scat crank and a three dip pan. When I put the Scat crank in I had to cut the rear U shaped bolt holder in half and use a very thin headed bolt at the center rear. I noticed all this as I was putting it back together as I had to make sure the grind marks were in the correct position and I thought I had lost the special bolt.
I didn't have any problems with the oil dippers. If the crank throw is unchanged, I don't see why there would be interference!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:37 pm:

Yes it is Roger


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:40 pm:

Still less work than fitting a Model A crank, I think,
And hopefully even better durability :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 07:49 pm:

That's what I was looking for Roger. I only want to do this one time. I had the engine done at a shop that specializes in flatheads and the trans done by a T shop. I had to sell my shovelhead to do this rebuild and I am looking for durability above all.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 08:21 pm:

The first question. The removable ears go on the side toward the pedals. You put the bands around starting with the side opposite the pedals and pull them around to the side pedal side. Then snap on the removable ear and slide the band back around so the ear is against the shaft on the pedal side. Then tie the ends together so that you can install the washer and nut. Note be very careful to stuff rags inside the transmission before you install the washers and nuts. You want the rags to catch any part which you might accidentally drop so it won't fall down inside.

Second question. I used a standard stroke SCAT crankshaft in my 26 with the 4 dip pan and didn't need to grind anything. I think it is only the stroker shaft which has interference. However you might find a difference with a 3 dip pan.
Norm


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