New guy again. My late '23 coupe has been restored years ago and apparently the window regulators were bad. The restorer went with lift straps as in earlier cars. I opened the door this weekend thinking I would see the old mounting for the regulator to figure out which one it used. I was surprised; there is no indication of any. I have never seen the inside of a T door so not sure what I should see. Does this look like it was re-wooded and that's why there is no holes or mounting? Does anyone have a picture of the inside of a door for me to compare with mine and figure out what I would need to put regulators in? I assume from all I have read that there is not a chance a forward hinged late "23 would not have had regulators? The wood sure seemed old - getting the screws in and out was like working on my 1927 house, the wood has turned to "iron wood."
These are 2 variations of the screw type regulator I used on n my '25 Tudor. If yours used that you may find holes in these locations.
These might be helpful too.
The radius in the cutouts for the board that holds the door latch looks like original wood or a good kit. The board itself may have been replaced. It should have several holes for the regulator plate in it if it used the type my Tudor did.
If yours used the 17200AX and 17201AX regulators above there should have been 3 holes in the lower door board for them.
Also, the referenced Ford book in the 2nd link says "*17200-AX, 17201-AX, 17200-CX and 17201-CX are obsolete and replaced by 17200-DX. which would lead me to believe the AX and CX were what they used first in 1923.
The holes in my door seem to line up with the regulator you have pictured.
What was the metal piece on the bottom of the window? Mine has the clamp for holding the strap.
I believe these are from my T.
Correction: The above channels did not fit my regulator roller. They may be Model A or something else. Below is a 3rd version of the screw type regulator plate with a channel that may be more correct for a T.
The regulator you depict above is the style which is in my model year 1924 coupe (click on my profile) built in the first week of November 1923; so sayeth Dave Sosnoski the Coupe Guru. Bill
Bill, this is all good information to have. Most of the closed '24 and 25's I have seen have had this screw type regulator. The mounting plate was revised several times as shown. It probably was in attempt to stiffen them.
I think the clock spring type was used mostly in steel doors and '26-'27.
This is a little late for this now but I still have some of the gear cases that the gears fit in but no gears. I use these gears shown for final fit checks. I also have some of the window cranks and the center screws along with their escutcheons that fit behind the cranks. When these are gone I don't plan to make more and also because they are slow movers and the main T vendors don't want to invest in a large number at one time and so doing a couple at a time or setting on a bunch myself gets old fast. The cranks, screws and escutcheons have all been nickel plated. At one time I reproduced all these items but then found several original cranks and escutcheons at Hershey years back except for the center screws which I did make and all I did then was polish and nickel plated them. Bob
Ron - have you found any window regulators ? I've recently picked up a pair of the "serpentine" style - 17200AX & 17201AX that appear to be in good condition. Included are the original cranks & escutcheons but no attachment screws.
Bob, I would like to buy a set of the cranks, screws and escutcheons.
Yes, I got your PM for the crank handles and the center screws plus the escutcheons but I have to finish making some more steel washers that must go with the cranks to have them work correctly.
There are actually 5 parts that go with this assembly. To the left is the steel washer with a square center that fit down to the square shaft stopping the crank from going down any farther. There may have been a E clip or snap ring placed on the gear's shaft in the groove below the square section but this washer will stop it at this point without it.
Then a rubber washer that creates a steady force on the star lock washer from having the crank coming loose after tightening down the center screw. If these pieces aren't in place the crank will remain loose after bottoming out the center screw plus making it press up against the escutcheon often times bending it.
This is an old picture showing an unplated crank and screw.
I also reproduced the lock handle if you are in need and these are now nickel plated too. Bob