My T is a 1926 Coupe (13952805). My carburetor does not have a swivel top adjustment. The adjustment is a flat pate with holes at either end. Does someone have any pictures or drawings of how the rod sets up on the carb and where and how it attaches to the firewall?
Adam -- You can get an adjustment needle with the swivel, as well as the linkage parts, from any of the vendors (Lang's, Snyder's, Birdhaven).
this is the linkage
and this is the needle
Dag nab it my fingers are ahead of my brain again!
You can convert that to the swivel linkage too just swap out the needle also available at the above vendors
You may or may not be able to use the early style forked adjusting rod in your coupe. The angle it would mate at carburetor might be lower and cause binding at the carb end. Also might be a good reach over and under from the drivers seat as the early style just sticks out the firewall on the cab side. The suggestion to get the correct parts is good. In addition to the other parts suggested above you will need the correct brass nut the needle valve screws into for the carb.
Adam ; When you change your adjusting rod, think about to do it this way.
Thanks for all the suggestions. The angle of the rod under the gas tank has me concerned. I will check to see if there are holes in the firewall for the rod to pass through. Thanks for the pics!!
Here is the stock Ford set-up for 1926-27. The dual adj swivel for the carb in Aug. 1925.
Here is the rod installed in a coupe. The rod is pulled for choke, and turned to adj. The rod came in many lengths depending on body style.
I see how it goes under the tank through the firewall. Do you happen to have a picture of that car under the hood? It looks like I need to replace my tee type adjustment to a swivel type. Do I need to measure the length of the needle before I buy a new one?
No need to measure the needle; just get the correct one for the type of carb you have.
The new parts can be purchased from Lang's.
The new spray needle assembly with square ended sleeve and u-joint 6213B. (assume NH carb on your car). And new clamp nut 6208B. Then get the 4591 choke rod sleeve.
Then you need the choke rod, proper length, Lang's 4129B, it comes long 32" and you cut it to suit your fancy, the knob comes off for you to shorten as needed. This rod has a square end to fit into the spray needle square opening end, so sometimes with repro parts you have to file the rod back to square flats to engage in the spray needle sleeve opening. The square is needed, as that is what allows the spray needle to twist for adjustment.
The slip sleeve, 4591 moves over the rod when you pull the rod for choke.
Make your own pull wire, ( and supply a cotter pin to slip thru the choke rod that acts as the lift to pull the 4591 choke sleeve)
Pictures from Service Bulletin
'D' is the choke rod. 'C' is the cotter pin in the rod.
All I need to know now is which carb I have and I will be ready to get this all hooked up. Thanks for all the help!
Looks like a regular NH. There should be a name plate on the far side (toward the engine) to ID it.
Usually it says Holley Model NH.
Sometimes it says Ford Model F. Same carb.
Sometime along the time period 1966-70, when my Dad and I were restoring my Grandfather's 27 coupe (which should have had a vaporizer that was long discarded), We tried several different carbs. The one that gave the least trouble, was an iron body Holley G. Somewhere we picked up an unusual swivel adapter that was made for converting 26-27 that was square on the upper end for the stock 26-27 choke/carb adjustment rod that goes through the dash and two tangs on the bottom of the u joint to fit the needle valve on a pre 26 carb. It seems to work with any brand side draft carb with a flat plate on top of the needle valve that has two holes in it for the 25 or earlier adjustment rod. I think I still have it attached to the Holley G, but don't have a picture of it.
BTW, if you need a "u joint" in the rod, a piece of Volkswagen fuel line works real well.