Best Way to Clean the Gunk out of my Engine's Water Jacket

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Best Way to Clean the Gunk out of my Engine's Water Jacket
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Tipton on Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 11:55 am:

What are the best chemicals to use to clean/clear the gunk out of my engine's water jacket and radiator?

Thanks, Dave TiptonCylinder Head InletBlock InletHead & Block Inlets


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 12:11 pm:

This fine gentleman used CLR, then flushed profusely with water and compressed air:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnOZ2MZt5FY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ3nkPm87X0

:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Tipton on Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 03:13 pm:

Has anyone use Evapo-Rust to clean rust from their cooling system?
Thanks, Dave TiptonEvapo Rust 1Evapo Rust 2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nathan Bright from Central NC on Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 04:23 pm:

x2 on CLR. I boiled mine in an acidic solution... cant remember what it was for the life of me. i have not tried your solution but id give it a shot!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 07:03 pm:

I have used Evapo-rust in a Model A engine. Block off the inlet fill it up and let it sit, we let it sit a week or two while did other work on the car. Only attacks the rust. Drain and save for other rust removal projects. Then flush the sediment out.
Did ok. Molasses might do about the same thing and both are environmentally safe.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Myers_____Pittsburgh, PA on Sunday, March 29, 2015 - 11:51 am:

I've used the chemicals "1831" and "1852" from Ultrasonics Direct to clean my block. The 1831 is very strong and will eat the rust AND metal if left inside too long. The 1852 is not as strong and will keep the metal protected from rust as long as it not washed out with water. Both of the chemicals work much better if warm- so I heated the head and block with a heat gun. I plugged the freeze plug holes with rubber corks, and attached clear tubing from the inlet to the outlet, and circulated it with a water pump powered with a cordless drill. When the block was hot, I'd circulate the chemicals until a fair amount of rust was seen in the tubing and placed a strong magnet against the tubing to collect it. I repeated the process 3-4 times and the passages look like new. Also, I'm not affiliated with Ultrasonics Direct, just think they have good chemicals.


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