The pin holding the crankshaft fan belt pulley in place sheared. How weird is that.

My thought is I must pull the engine and pan from the engine to change this out.

True? Some one PLEASE say it isn't so!

Just the radiator to give you some room, that sheared pin should just punch out with a drift.

If there is still a piece of it in there,you can drive it out with a long drift punch. You will have to remove radiator to get to it. The pulley should be able to be removed from the front.Good luck.

There is a cotter pin on one end of the pin. The opening in the pulley is smaller than the pin on that end. So if the cotter pin is still in place, it must be removed and the pin driven out from that end toward the larger hole in the pulley. Turn the crankshaft so that the large hole in the pulley is directly at the bottom over the hole in the crankcase. Then drive the pin out. Rotate the crankshaft one half turn so that the larger hole is at the top and drive in the new pin cotter key end first. Then place the cotter pin and you should be ready to go.
Norm

Right on Norm.

Thanks. I'll give it a shot!

Just want to throw this out there John - why did the pin shear?

It's definitely pretty easy to get the rad off and then punch out the old pin and get the new one in, but, I'm really curious about why/how the old one sheared.

Some other folks may have a better idea of what caused this but you may want to make sure that your fan spins easily and that you don't have too much front-to-back play in your crankshaft. It may be nothing, but, I'd be leery of just replacing the pin without some extra poking and prodding.

Seth,

No idea why the pin sheared. this has been a good running car that I purchased about 3 years ago and was already rebuilt.

Used a puller and finally got the old pulley off. Cleaned up the burs on the crank shaft (couple very small ones).

Installed a new pulley but had to trim a rivet head in the pan to get the new pulley past it. Used a Dremel and just shaved it down a tad. Shouldn't be an issue.

The new pulley went on "OK" but I had to use a wood block to tap it on. I wasn't happy about that but short of drilling out the pulley or sanding down the crank shaft there was little I could do. It went on straight thank gawd and I installed a roll (spring) pin.

The new pulley is about a 1/4 inch wider than the one I removed necessitating the work on the rivet head.

Don't know why the old pulley/pin went bad. Have had no incidents since I've owned the car that could even remotely cause this to happen.

It'll be done tomorrow. Thanks for the guidance as I am REALLY happy I didn't have to pull the engine!

John, Do you have a good spring in your hand crank. If you don't every time you go up hill your hand crank will be destroying your new pin.

I'm working on a T which the ratchet on the crank is all worn out. It is so bad I can't turn the crankshaft with it. The spring was missing. I replaced both the spring and the ratchet. You need a good spring to keep the crank ratchet away from the pin.
Norm