When setting up the 3rd brush, is there some reason why one working alone, can't hook up a spare ammeter to the #1 and #3 posts on the connection block in the engine compartment, therefore seeing the settings as they occur instead of ducking back and forth to the "cockpit"?
I made this tool just for that task using a FunProjects dash ammeter.
You hang it on the radiator support rod. Remove the yellow wire from the starter switch to terminal three of the terminal block and connect one tool wire to it and the other to terminal three with correct polarity.
It makes the job much easier and far more accurate. P.S. Be sure to keep clear of terminal two or you can discharge the magneto magnets.
What a great idea!!!
Might know Ron would know.
Should make it a lot easier, but just wanted to check for any horror stories. Ron, one question, why disconnect the starter wire?
And it looks period correct with that cloth covered wire. But the box is too clean and new.
Bill, the gauge needs to be in-line with the power feed from the battery. The "starter wire" is the yellow wire that goes to the battery side of the starter switch. Disconnect it from the terminal block and attach the black lead of the gauge to that wire. The red wire from gauge would then be attached at the terminal block. (In place of the starter wire.)
Agree with Ken. I would have cut a piece of wood from a barn beam.
The ammeter must be in series with the load wire (yellow) from the switch to the ammeter.
Ron the Coilman
Suggest using #10 wire to limit the amount of additional resistance being added to the circuit.
Thanks to all. Will have a "Ron" tester on my equipment shelf by the end of the week for my use as the use of our club members. Very handy idea since most often working on these kinds of things is a solo job.
You can add a Volt meter to the test box so you have it all, the current and the tension of your generator. Amp-meter must be is series in you charging circuit and the Volt-meter should be in parallel between the cut out terminal and the engine ground.
I inspired mine on Ron's exemplary.
Let me revise one of my posts above which is ambiguous:
The ammeter must be in series with the load yellow wire from the starter switch to the ammeter (via terminal three on the terminal block).
Seems to be that the ammeter would be best hooked up between the cutout and the yellow/black wire. That way you're seeing the generator output, not just the portion that's going to the battery.
Talk slow, think fast.
That then involves 2 measurements since you really are trying to set the charge rate to the lowest setting that still results in a bit of charge with the lights on. You could take a reading of the generator output and then move the ammeter connection to then allow you to subtract a reading of the lights but it is way easier and more accurate for what you are trying to do by having the ammeter measure the current to the battery. The idea here is to have a known accurate ammeter used to monitor the current in the line to the battery or simply put to have an ammeter that you can see which is doing the same thing as the dash ammeter.