Steering: Going from 4:1 to 5:1

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Steering: Going from 4:1 to 5:1
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:24 pm:

I changed out the steering system today in my 15 touring and ran into a few small problems.

1. The pins on the old steering shaft were all of the same length. The new (5:1) steering shaft has 2 pins the same length, but one stands proud of the other 2 by about 3/16". I am able to screw the brass cover on tightly and the protruding pin doesn't seem to interfere with it. Any problem here ?

2. The new 5:1 gears fit snugly into the steering case. When turning the steering wheel (steering arm disconnected) there is definitely some resistance, but nothing binds. Taking the car on the road for a test drive I thought I could feel some resistance from the steering gears, but it really didn't seem like much. Not annoying at all. Will it free up with wear ??

I think I remember someone else with this problem using timesaver to make the gears wear in quicker. Feasible? Would you use the yellow or the green and how would you use it ??

Thanks for any suggestions


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:39 pm:

Bud,
The later steering cases were had a slot machined into the case for the third pin to engage with. That modification was to help with the chance of the steering going over center. ( Which happened sometimes.) You could run the risk of a problem the way you have the new shaft mounted.

Best regards, John Page Australia.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:46 pm:

I would try the yellow grade timesaver. It would grind the case only - and very little unless you renew the timesaver (mixed with a little oil) a lot of times. Maybe you can chuck the steering wheel shaft in some type of large drill so it could be ground around and around with the pitman arm disconnected?

I would clean out the remaining timesave and put grease there instead after grinding


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:46 pm:

Thanks to Dan Treace for this Image


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 07:52 pm:

The tightness may be the gear set itself and either live with the tightness or give it a shot with timesaver.

Before you do that, what condition was the detent slot in? Not the arc...but the width! Everybody forgets that and often gets away with it...but the 5::1 'pins' are on a different 'pitch circle' than the 4::1 'pins'...small difference, but enough that a good lower box has binding where a well worn sloppy one doesn't!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 08:16 pm:

There is no slot in the bottom of my brass steering gear case, its just a smooth bottom. The single pin that is longer than the rest, protrudes higher (towards the driver and not lower). I guess it has been moved (I think its just a press fit). As I said, it doesn't seem to be dragging on the case cover, so I'm not sure its worth cutting down.

I'm pretty sure its the gears rubbing against the side of the case. I tried the whole assembly before installing in the case and it seemed pretty free.

If I do use the timesaver, do I mix it with the grease already in the case, or clean the grease out of the case and use the timesaver alone, or with oil ?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 08:55 pm:

I used the Timersaver Yellow, mixed with oil, did easy 10min job of getting the new gears running free in the gear housing.

Here is Timesaver info:

http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/time.htm#yellow





As for that longer pinion shaft, perhaps better to remove it and replace with the short style since your gear housing has no stop slot. That pin could migrate up and impinge on the gear case, Murphy's Law, if an object can get into a bad position, it will. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 09:35 pm:

Dan

The 10 minutes you mention -did you disconnect the steering arm and turn the wheel for 10 minutes?

After you were done did you flush out the timesaver or just add the grease ?

PS I downloaded the book on timesaver on newman's site - worth it!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 09:38 am:

Bud

Here is an older post that covers how I lapped.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/202753.html?1302106072

Did clean out the lapping oil stuff, and assembled the parts again.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 09:47 am:

Dan

Thanks for the reference - sorry I should have searched and found it myself. Older post explained everything well .. thanks again.


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