I'm about to start building the rear axle for my speedster. All the parts I need are on their way to me now and I intend to use this 1913-14 housing.
As you can see its obviously been a problem for a previous owner who removed all the rivets and replaced them with nuts and bolts. Amongst the parts I have coming is a set of new rivets.
Having rebuilt a rear end before, I'm confident about rebuilding the axle itself, but I would appreciate any advice from anyone already experienced in replacing rivets. I will have help from a farm machinery mechanic mate who says its not a problem, but he has also said that he hasn't done much of that sort of work before.
So, anyone got any good tips.
Thanks & cheers,
Rob, I have rebuilt 3 early diffs without using rivets. I use 1/4" unf nuts and bolts. The bolt head is turned to the appearance of the standard rivet head. The inside end of the bolt is slotted with a hacksaw so the bolt can be held with a screwdriver. The nuts are loctited on assembly. None have given any problems and leaks are a thing of the past. I use a loctite flange sealant between the housings and the axle tubes to provide an oil proof seal. This is a sealant which does not harden.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I've used these before for rivet look fasteners in the bed of the pickup, for the rivets that go into the hump plate to bed strip, '26-'27.
Thank You Gents. Much appreciated.
Alan, I remember converting bolts into rivets for the fenders.....what a tedious task that was, but it worked. So I suppose I'll be going down that path if I cant find what Dan's suggesting.
Whatever fasteners you use, you might want to lay a bead of silicon around the joint before joining it together as the joint is prone to leaking, especially if there is the slightest bit of distortion in the axle housings. Close housing to center section while the silicon is still wet. Any member with differing suggestion, feel free to correct me.
Rob, I wouldn't be smacking rivets in until that axle housing is checked out, it's already got a serious crack in it and has most likely got very brittle in it's old age, could break up like a dry cracker!!
Frank, Thanks for pointing that out to me. On closer inspection it most certainly does have a crack in it.
I'll check it out and see if its repairable. If so I'll continue with it, but of not, I'll resort to using one of the "newer" (but stronger) rear ends I have here.
I'd like to thank John for his personal message to me with comprehensive and detailed instructions on the process.
He suggests RedKote as a flexible sealant, used on both surfaces and brought together while still wet.
I've never rebuilt a regular T rear end, just a TT worm set up, and then I never separated the clam shells from the axle tubes. In reading this thread I begin to wonder just how much play there is between the clam shell and the axle tube before the fasteners (rivets or bolts) are installed and cinched up. Specifically, is there any reason to think you'd need to take steps to assure that both axle tubes are trued up to a common enter line? It's hard for me to believe that once it's all apart it will just fall exactly into place on its own when re-assembled.
Or, as long as the holes are not damaged and the fasteners are exactly the right diameter does it all fit together so tightly that this is not a problem?