The other thread on "What did you do Today" was getting rather lengthy so I'm starting this one. Did a pan this morning.
This an "A" crank, full pressure job - that's why the "holes" in the pan.
That's a nice Jay-One-Gee !!!
How about a photo of just the fixture and the alignment shafts.
Beings that original KRW pan jigs are somewhat hard to come by or if one is found, quite high prices are demanded, I had this built by a friend and the "critical" measurements were courtesy of my old friend Herman Khonke. I used T-1 steel and had both sides surface ground to .0001 - it's flippin flat !
I might add that I'm more of a "pressure" guy, as in hydraulics, than an "impact" guy so other than the gasket surfaces being hammered flat, I use jacks & chains where need be.
Addendum: the random "holes" in the plate's surface are for removable hardened dowels for corresponding c.c. bolt holes.
Nice job Steve, I assume you reinforced the concrete under the jig if you leave it set in the same spot, or do you have the wife carry it to the storage shed when not in use?
i like your $4000.00 pan jig.but hot roll is flat enough for a t ha ha .charley
Thanks for the additional details. We are planning to make one this summer. We may have to come and visit for a Looky Loo.
Thanks Herman ! Notice the threaded hole in the center ? That's for the big lifting eye to use the crane to move it - it's a might heavy !
Only have about $1200 in material, machining & labor costs, Charley - a lot cheaper than the one listed for sale right now !
You're welcome, Bob and you're over-due for a shop tour, Bob.
It appears to have been ground on a Blanchard style Machine. The reason I say that is because I use to do business with a guy with large Blanchard grinders in Minneapolis. And I guess after thinking about it very few KRW pan jigs are probably even close to .0001" flat.
Yup, Looks good Steve.
steve i was comparing yours to the 4000.00 one on ebay!! i am gong to make one out of 1/2"i think thats thick enough if you bend it hot.
There is one on the club classifieds right now in CA - asking $4500. There is another KRW jig I've been try to purchase at a marina near Seattle for over 20 years - was used as a "flat platform" to surface outboard motor cylinder heads with crocus cloth !
Steve ; I made also a straightening jig by myself. But I am missing one thing and that is the bar from left to right between the ears. I know that the distance of the holes is 21.5 inch.
But do you know where the holes are in relation to the front or the back of the pan .
I can probably get quite close measuring as all the index scribes were remove during the surface grinding - give me a couple days, unless Herm or Jack P. or someone has them written down.
Steve, I have been thinking about making one myself. I just acquired a nice set of legs for mine. It is a KR Wilson combination machine base. Since it is missing the gear head, and I already have a complete combination machine, I going to use it for my legs. The top of the combination machine is already a machined surface. Im going to get a 3/4 to one inch plate and cut it for my surface plate. Ill have it machined on both sides like you did. Then Ill just bolt it to the combination machine base with the existing holes. So I will not be altering the Combination Machine any. I would think all the measurements can be figured out and based off a center scribe line. Everything should be true 90 degree angles based off the center line and working to a vertical or horizontal plane. The hard ones to figure out, may be the small holes that bolt the pan to the block or hogs head. I also have what I hope is a NOS oil pan. Im going to take it to a KR Wilson pan jig owned by a member of our local club and check my pan for straightness. Then use it for final check of my layout. Im hoping the only thing I need to buy is the piece of plate and have it machined ... Thanks for the posting as it has me motivated to finish mine ...
That's a great start, Donnie. With the plate and proper attachments, you'll have a very useful tool !
Anthonie: I don't have the exact number written down, but I can tell you that if you were to draw a line perpendicular to the center line that would pass directly under the center of the oil drain pan hole you would have the location of the bar that is used to straighten the pan arms. The oil drain center and the hole center in the pan arms should be in alignment.
Jack ; Yes I understand that, but now the line of the panarm holes to the back or to the front.I think the best way is from the back, where the 4th main bearing in mount.
Anthonie: All holes would be centered on the line.
I sent you the drawing tonight
Mike ; Thank you for sending me the drawing of the pan. I hope that I can finished the pan now.