In summary, this 1926 car has not run in decades, but engine is free
I did jack up one rear wheel
I Put in a new 6 volt battery but starter would not work. Very poor wiring from the 6 volt battery to the starter motor so this I know how to correct
The 6 volt battery does give good spark to the 4 coils and plugs
I then hooked a 12 volt battery with jumper cables directly to the starter. It draws a heavy amp load ( heat in jumper cables quickly) but starter motor barley turns the engine over 1 piston or 2 up then stops and stalls. Not at all nearly normal and not enough to start the car
I had put acetone, atf fluid and some oil in each cylinder a day ago.
So my question to all of you is not where should I start to replace and repair all the electrical circuit to the starter motor but where should I be trouble shooting to correct the very high torque drag on the engine ?? Thanks
Check all cables, clean til metal is bright ,that includes ground strap to the frame and starter switch.
How stiff is it to turn with the crank? If it turns reasonably easy with the crank, then the problem is isolated to the starter.
If it is stiff to crank, then if it was mine, I would try towing it with the plugs out for a mile or so in high gear (preferably with a tow bar on deserted roads, or round and around a deserted parking lot). Ideally at about 10-15 mph.
See if it loosens up.
If it loosens up then tow it a bit more with the transmission in neutral (brake lever half back.
Then tow it a bit slowly and put it in low.
This is what I would do if it was mine.
I LIKE the side lights!! Are the head lights "post mounted"? Could be a early production '26. The windshield posts might be a bit different and might be a "notch" in the cowl edge by the tops of the front doors
Change the oil for say a 5w-30.
So perhaps tomorrow drain the old oil out
perhaps pour gasoline over the high speed clutch plates ?
put in new oil and tow it ?
what are the most common causes of excessive drag ? tight rusted piston rings ? old oil seizing the high speed clutch plates /
not in neutral and brake dragging the engine brake ?
I would NOT pour gasoline on the clutch plates, kero or just oil.
Heavy old oil.
Change the oil, then check these adjustments:
Often the link is worn, and the holes in the clutch pedal and clutch arm are worn, necessitating a longer link be made to take out the excess play.
See the method here to fix that:
I agree with Rick. I flushed my 19 that had been in storage for 45 years with kerosene before trying to start it (crank only - no starter)
It started after a few pulls on the crank with a 12 volt battery connected to the coils.
Warning if you have soaked the motor with MMO you need to be outside because you will kill every mosquito in the neighborhood .
Fred what is MMO? Making smoke in my neighborhood for a few minutes may be fun. i will NOT use gas on the clutch assembly
Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO)
Marvel Mystery Oil.
The ingredients are a mystery but it is wonderful stuff.
I use it for everything.
It makes a good laxitative but is best for soaking rust.
I rub it on the barn fresh T to stop the rust from going further.
The only thing that is better is auto trans oil and acetone, but I haven't tried to use it as a laxitative because the acetone is a bit harsh.
Somebody else already mentioned it but I will pound on it again. Check the the ground connection!
I had lots of trouble with slow turning over and hard starting. I thought I had replaced all of the wires & cables but on reflection had only inspected the ground and not replaced it. A new 6v ground cable and tight clean connections transformed the car from a real bitch into a sweetheart.