My brother said his mag quit working.
Holy canoly Tom. That could cause your engine to misfire on one or even two cylinders. But, what the heck, a little duct tape and some bailing wire and you'll have 'er running in no time.
Tom from Scatt was at the Bakersfield swap meet & had a "swap meet only special" T crank that was undersize for less than 1K.
Hope the rest of the engine made it. Was the original crank an EE???
OUCH! A pre-generator block, too. Pity.
Bill, no starter or generator but has the bolt on block off on the front so a late T block.
Block is now boat anchor material Les! Check out that rear main section! It has just been ripped out by the rampant transmission. A sad end to an early block. My 26' block cracked very badly across the same section but did not break it away like that one. Wonder which piece broke first?
Anxiously awaiting the suspected cause(s).
Also, type of cam, head, any other "unusual" features you or your brother care to share?
Thanks in advance for the autopsy results.
That looks a lot like the Model A block we have in the shop that was doing about 5000 rpm when it came apart.
WoW I've never seen one where the crank broke completely in Three pieces!
Sorry to hear the bad news
I have a block where the rear main web also broke out when the crank went. It was weld repaired with high nickel rod and was ran after the repair. I would not trust the weld repair.
I'm assuming or course the crank broke first. Not sure how one can prove which happened first, however.....numerous T cranks have broke and not damaged the rear main/web.
If it was a pre-'16 block, I would consider repairing it. But otherwise, about all I can say is "OOH, nasty!"
Les and Tom
I took home the Scat crank from Bakersfield. It was a very good deal. Putting it into a 12 engine block.
Les, I hope Tom takes a close look at the rear web in the block. As Warwick says, blocks do crack at the rear web, and when they let go, the crank goes with it. close inspection may show that a cracked block will have 'polished' surfaces where the pieces have been working against one another before it finally lets go.
Tom, you may well be the only current member of the Three Piece Club!!! No doubt it has happened in the past, but I have never seen or heard of it before.
Allan from down under.
Is that metal filings on the magnets? What year is the block? Looks like a very fresh rebuild was the crank magnafluxed? Don't mean to sound like an ass with the questions, just trying to ease what little brain I have, that this may not happen the next time I crank a T.
Montana 500 car?
I am also a member of the two piece crank club and I hope to never join that three piece club.
I think it has all the makings of a fine 2 cylinder "pump engine".
Just clean up the back end and install a flywheel etc on the front end.
Hey when life gives you lemons, then make lemonaid!!
Wow! Looks like #3 hydro-locked or someone dropped a ball bearing through the plug hole. That's an unusual break.
Yep, Montana 500 car. Last year my brother borrowed a crankshaft from a friend at the last minute before the Montana 500. It made it through the 500. I don't know if it was magnafluxed or whether it was an EE. I will try to find out. I think Ken has the right idea. I think the crank broke at number two main, the break in the crank forced the piston above the bore, the rings caught and the flywheel and momentum of the car tore the number three rod off. I haven't seen it in person, this is just my thoughts based on this picture.
Cast Iron Mike in Washington could weld/save the block. He does fantastic work! He saved a front cylinder for a 1 or 2 cylinder REO that I have. It was badly cracked in the outside water jacket and inside the combustion chamber. He cut/removed the outside water jacket in order to properly weld the cracks inside the combustion chamber. After that, he welded the water jacket back in place. Looking at his work, the weld repaired areas do not look any different compared to those areas that were not cracked. It cost me $500.00 to have my cylinder repaired.
It may not be cost effective to have a badly damaged model T block repaired unless it was a 1913 or earlier block. I have seen other rare cast iron items that He has repaired and can not say enough about his great work.