I have a friend who has a 26 tudor the motor runs like a top still standard bore. Radiator has been rodded and cleaned its a flat tube with just 3 tubes that could not be cleared. Driving the car there is no gurgling in the radiator how ever the motometer pegs the top. when you stop and shut the motor down she boils in the radiator and pukes some water. she boils for about 4 mins the settles down. while all this is going on you can lay your hand on the head and leave it, the radiator at the bottom is warm and some what hotter at the top. you can leave your hand on the radiator at the top with out burning your self. Have a good neutral and no drag at the wheels when jacked up the turn free. water level is about center of the ford script on the shell. any ideas whats going on?
I wonder if the radiator is one of the early flat tube radiators that Ford used in the 26-27 T's.
I have read or heard somewhere that they didn't cool all that better.
I have one and it seems like it wouldn't cool good enough because of the lack of heat transfer. Just my opinion. I used it for a while until I finally bought a new Bergs and that ended any boil over.
A new radiator does wonders. If the cooling fins break away from the tubes, the radiator will not do it's job; this is what happens to most old radiators..
is your timing lever in the right place? this could make her run hot also
Checked the timing at different levels. tried at full advance and at 3/4 with the same results. it has a roller timer and is set per the little tool to set the spark. I have a new honey comb radiator I am going to let him try and see if the out come is different.
Get a Berg radiator. My 26 Tudor runs cool with one. Temperature only gets to the bottom of the window (the round one that is a see through) on my moto meter on very hot days after a stop.
I agree with Hal. My '27 had the round-tube radiator. It would overheat in 15 minutes no matter what. I bought a new flat-tube radiator from Berg Radiator, and now you can't make it overheat.
Does the car have a water pump? My car boiled over only once in a parade when it had a water pump. I switched back to Ford's thermosyphon system and never had another problem, even with a tired old rad. Now I have a new Brassworks rad and it is perfect in every way.
No water pump that was the first thing to go.
Does your motometer read correctly? Check it against a candy thermometer in hot water.
How lean are they running it? Too lean will cause the engine to over heat. Some T's will gurgle some after shutting down. Could be something to do with the temp difference between the HOT cast iron block and the quicker to cool brass radiator. Before you jump on that, most all radiators were made out of brass.
As mentioned, I had a round tube and mine would run warm on hot days. I installed a Bergs flat core five years ago and solved the problem. Yesterday I drove 50 miles in 90 degree heat here in Florida and she ran with no overheating at all. The only time it started to get a little warm was if I was stuck at a long stop light but after I got moving with in a mile it was back down to where it needed to be. I do not have a water pump.
UPDATE: Let my friend try my Honey comb radiator today he filled it with water and drove it. all was well until he came back home. with temp checker on upper hose it is at 190 deg. as soon as the car is shut off it gurgles and spits out some steam and water, not much tho. it stayed under 200 on the gauge. it starts easy and runs great. no slow starter spin like a car will do when to hot. I had him run it parked for about 5 min at a idle temp still under 200 then he went to about half throttle. or about 5 mins temp dropped some but this is with hood off too. car never hits 200 deg. and the meter we are using is hook just above the upper hose on the radiator neck. what do you all think?
Things that would cause the engine to run hot may be:
Running the mixture too lean or maybe a partial blockage of the main jet.
Running with timing retarded.
Water level below the top of the radiator core.
Blockage of water flow.
Working the engine hard and low speed, in other words lugging the engine.
Restriction in the exhaust system.
Lack of air flow through the radiator.
Old radiator and poor heat transfer from the core tubes to the fins.
Too much friction in the engine. Maybe tight bearings or pistons/rings.
Running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze will make an engine run hotter and more likely to overheat then running less antifreeze.
Air temperature very hot, like 120°F+.
Exhaust valves not opening far enough.
Sounds like its operating normally. However it doesn't indicate why your motometer is pegging out
First off 190 is not to hot for a T. If you are filling the radiator to full it will perk out at some point and seek its own level. Fill just above the flues. The moto meter is made to read steam temp and not supposed to be down in the water. KGB
Can you hold your hand on the lower pipe from radiator to engine? If so, sounds like it is running fine. I have a motometer on my Model A that has the opposite problem. It shows no red whatsoever until it begins to overheat. It is useless to monitor normal operating temperature. Sounds like yours is just too full. Let it seek it's own level and see how it does.
Has the head been pulled and the steam holes cleaned out?
Yes Hal and Ken...... it did good with my Honey comb on it. he is buying a new one from berg.
He won't be sorry. I have a Berg's on both of ours. Money well spent.