Before I install my new radiator, it would seem to make good sense to thoroughly flush out the engine block, so that loose crud doesn't end up in the new radiator.
In another thread, folks have discussed using diluted molasses to remove rust from inside the water passages of the block. Is this a good idea? How long should the molasses mixture be allowed to soak inside the water passages?
Thank you for your comments.
I'm not a big fan of any simple block flush as preparation for a new radiator. You've already spent the big money on the new radiator. Why not go the extra inch and pull the head? This way you can be sure to get the bulk of the crud out and be sure all the passages are open and free.
Just my $0.02 worth.
I was astounded when I pulled a head. A very thick amount of yellow brown crud every surface inside the block water passages . I tool a wire brush on a flexible drill cable and high pressure air to blow out way too much crud. Glad I did
I agree. I just pulled the head off the Fordor and there was stuff in there you would not have been able to get out otherwise. Head gaskets are cheap.
I would say that if you flush the block without pulling the head your only half done.
Pulling the head and cleaning out the water passage ways in the block is the best way.
Carefully use a 1/4" drill and clean out the passage ways in the block and head. It will surprise you how much those small 1/4" holes get clogged.
A trick I learned is to let the block dry out over night. The thick flakes of rust come out easier when they are dry. Clean them out using a stiff wire or with an old speedometer cable with an electric drill. Follow up with air pressure. LOTS of crud will come out.
If you can't or don't want to pull the head,I used Crl 1qt per gallon, let it set overnight was amazed how much rust and crud came out before I put my new Berg in. Flush a lot after your done. Good luck Dan
What is it???
He means CLR, per the video links posted near the bottom of this recent thread:
That's nice, but I'm in the boonies on dial up, and cannot access u-tube or any videos, for that matter. So what is this product?
Too many folks use abbreviations nowadays, and we have to figure it out, sometimes with very few clues, like ads that say "BOGO!!" huh? Oh, Buy One, Get One Free" (where'd the "F" go???) I suspect it's originating with all the texting shortcuts.
Sorry, ranting off-subject; just please, someone, tell me what CLR is!
Calcium Lime and Rust remover. Liquid that comes in a small bottle. Often used to clean bathrooms and drains.
(Message edited by kep610 on April 20, 2015)
CLR is the name, get it at a hardware store. It comes in a plastic container. It removes Calcium, Lime, Rust (CLR)
Thank you! Now I know what yer all talkin' 'bout! And where to look for it.
What's the thoughts on using Muratic Acid (Swimming pool chemical)?
Use a bottle of CLR to 1 1/2 gallons of HOT water. Put the CLR in the same bucket and stir it.
Leave it in 20 to 30 minutes ONLY! No need to run the engine, but stir it good first.
You're taking a risk leaving it in over night.
You've got to remove the bottom hose and flush the hell out of it with clear water afterwards.
Put the hose in the side water inlet and block it with your fingers so the water goes up through the engine and comes out down through the radiator.
Make sure you get all the CLR out.
I use this system at least 6 times a year on customers car that have been neglected.
I just did a model A Town Car a week ago Thursday.
Looked like brown paint coming out after letting the CLR soak for 25 minutes..
I have used muratic acid, it was a number of years ago. I don't remember how much we diluted it.
The engine was in the car and it would run but poorly.
The radiator was removed and pieces of PVC pipe were attached to the hoses on the head and side of block. The pipe attached to the hose on the side of the block was propped up so the block could be filled with the diluted acid. Lowering the pipe would drain the block.
When the acid was put in the block not much happened, so we started the engine. With a little heat things happened and the cooling jacket was reasonably clean.
IF YOU DO THIS BE CAREFUL! TAKE ALL THE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS YOU CAN THINK OF!!!!
Some of the problem with crud in the cooling water passages is due to filling the radiator with tap water.
I think this is something we all got from our Dad's, but its a poor idea. ALL water public water systems have dissolved solids in them and over time these will come out of solution and coat the water passages in your engine.
The absolute cheapest and best thing you can do for your T's cooling is to fill the system with a gallon of antifreeze and the remainder with DISTILLED water. My Walmart carries distilled water for $ .89 a gallon. For preventative maintenance you can't beat the price.
BTW demineralized water is also available and its probably better than tapwater, but the gold standard is distilled,
if you have a dehumidifier that is good distilled water for radiators and batteries