I took my rocky mountain brakes off of my 1918 centerdoor and in the process of installing Texas T Parts disc brakes. I want to sell the rockys but how much should I ask? The rockys have been on the T roughly five hundred miles and in nearly new condition.
Curious why are you switching to a different type.
Dan, the discs are much better. They work going forward or backward, and if wet etc.
Frank, I might be interested at the right price.
I would think 50% of the new price would be a good start....
So my recently acquired '13 has rockies, and as I live in some of the longest winters/coldest springs in the region, I really haven't had time to get out and "try 'em out"...so a question I have is, why don't they work in reverse? Would seem to me if they squeeze the drum going forward when you push the brake pedal, the same would happen when going backwards. Apparently I'm missing something here. Also, what if anything needs to be done in order to pull a real wheel off? Thanks for any info!
I'll try, buy it's early and I've had just 1 cup of coffee.
The reason Rockie's work well forward and poorly in reverse is due to how the band is anchored. The Rockie band is anchored at its end, located to the front of the drum, at about the horizontal center. Just above this is the actuating mechanism. When applied while moving forward the entire length of the band tightens around the drum and the drum motion itself tends to tighten it even more. It works very well.
Conversely, when moving in reverse and the Rockie is applied the reverse motion of the drum tends to loosen the band, which significantly reduces it's stopping power (friction).
By way of comparison the original Rockie's (not the modern reproductions), Bennetts, and others had the band anchored at the center rear of the drum. This causes the drum motion effect to be equal when moving forward or in reverse because half the band wants to tighten forward and the other half wants to tighten in reverse.
Pulling a rear wheel is theoretically easy. Just jack up and support the car, remove the hub cap, remove the cotter pin, and remove the nut. The wheel should just come off. Of course, as Yogi Berra once sad, "In theory there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Or words to that effect. In the case of removing a T rear wheel this means they can be stuck and a bugger to pop off.
OK. There's my effort, good or bad. Anybody else?
Henry; in a nut shell that is correct as I have come to understand. In the back of my brain I have been thinking how to redo the RM's to give them that anchor point to do the job as they should. The 1925 and earlier, even with the larger drums installed would not be so bad to fix. They at least have a mounting point using the rear brake shoe bolt in the backing plate. The 26/27 you would almost need to redo the casting as the thin backing plate is only held on by the 4 small rivets so I don't think bolting an anchor to it would be a good idea.
I would certainly be interested in them IF THEY ARE ORIGINAL BRAKES MADE IN THE TWENTIES, with cables and no rods.
Thanks for all of the responses but one of the members in our club wanted the rockys. Thank you MTFCA