Which front hubs are correct for a 1915 Model T? Do they have the narrow band just behind the hubcap? Is one supposed to have the ring outside the inner bearing for a speedometer gear? I'm getting ready to have a set re-wooded and would like to make sure I install the correct hubs.
I learn something new about every day from this forum. I appreciate the people who contribute with what they have found to be correct on their cars.
Verne, my '15 Touring has the narrow band behind the hubcap, but I don't have a speedo so I can't help you there. Seemed to me by then speedometers were optional equipment by '15 so it's doubtful that they all would have. Obviously mine has no such ring. Nice looking runabout there!
Here are picture to help. Courtesy of Royce Peterson.
1915 on right, long threaded area for hub cap, 3 holes drilled to mount speedometer road gear, and recess machined on inside of hub for that road gear to fit flush.
According to the MTFCI Judging Guidelines, speedometers became a factory supplied option beginning Oct/Nov 1914. However, as stated above, the hubs continued to be the early type, capable of accepting the speedometer gear.
Verne, your car is almost a twin of mine. I've been studying front hubs for some new wheels too. There are a few easy ID clues.
This is the hub used from 3-14-17 to 6-25-18, but it has two of the clues you're after. That's the raised ring, which supports the speedometer gear, and the three holes for speedometer gear screws. The speedometer was dropped for 1915, but the ring and the holes remained.
How do you know if a hub is this 17-18 or 14-16? The encyclopedia says: HERE IS THE BIG DATE – 3-14-17 – On this date they Redesigned the small end changing the depth of the pocket for the ball race from 19/32 to 3/4” Distance between end of shoulder which supports the spokes and end of hub from 1- 25/32 to 1-15/16. Over all length from 5-3/32” to 5-1/4”. So the outer bearing pocket will be 19/32" deep and the overall length 5-3/32".
All these hubs used ball bearings, which didn't need outer notches for driving them out. The inner removal notches weren't as deep as the later ones for Timkens. When Ford changed to roller bearings in 1919, outer notches were added. As far as I know, there's no way to remove a Timken cup from a ball bearing hub without destroying it. If the cup is good and you want to reuse it, too bad. So I used a die grinder to deepen the inner notches and add outer ones.
I've seen hubs with the flange for the speedometer gear AND the later style hub.
I have another question. The machined and tapped hub was used to mount the small gear setup for the Ford Special speedometer setup on the right front. Was the same machined/tapped hub used on the left front wheel also or a plain hub used on that side in 1915?
I've seen them on both sides.
Larry is correct - both front hubs match one another. Also, the 1915 hubs do not have the marking "Ford", they have a cartouche from the maker of the hub.
Larry & Royce -- thank you. I know you guys would have the answer. In all my "T" years I had never seen a really original 1915. I figured that Ford probably wouldn't machine the one hub and not the other but couldn't confirm it. Now have to check my "stash" and make sure I have 2 matching ones.