My '14 touring's rear wheels are canted inwards about 1/2" at the top on each. It's not much but it bugs me and is noticeable (maybe just because I am looking for it) when following the car on the road. Possible solutions are:
A. Disassemble axle and bend housing tubes a bit; going a tad over so it settles straight.
B. Mill the housing mating surfaces so the bottom is 1/16" thinner to allow the assembly to be pulled straight when assembled. Use Grade 8 bolts when assembling to resist stretching.
C. Use a truss rod.
D. Whatever brilliance you guys come up with.
As this is a bit outside my experience I would welcome someone to supply solution D and/or comment on A-C.
If your rear end is relatively quiet, I would not try A or B. You will probably regret it. I would live with the cosmetics issue, personally, but don't see any harm in trying a truss rod. Thing is, if it creates a problem, you can always remove it.
If it bothers you that much, I'd suggest making up a new rear end with straight housings. If you were talking about a 1912 or earlier rear end, I might suggest straightening the tubes or cast center pieces, if you can detect where the bends are.
Don't do any maching MR. R.V..
Sprung housings on a 13-14, and others, are very common.
I have seen many of truss rods on the 13-14's.
I wouldn't run with out one.
I will have one on mine.
It is normally sprung where the pips go in to the carriage housings.
1/2 inch looks like a lot, but it is not when alignment bending, takes very little.
But you have to go by axle alignment, or you will have many other problems.
You can do it, Mr. R.V.
I say start jacking it up with a floor jack under the differential when you need to work underneath. Let us know if it bends back. If not, maybe we can all quit worrying about how to jack them up at the end of the axle and still have room for a jack stand.
R V , I had the same problem and, and did it this way.