New exhaust gaskets

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: New exhaust gaskets
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By wayne johnson on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 09:16 am:

This question seems to be exhausting. Not sure if manifold is flat or warped, but going directly back on same engine it has been on for years. I bought bought both the flange and copper rings as well as flat gaskets. I cleaned all the surfaces. Is there a trick to getting it all together? A sequence for tightening such as center out and repeating several times after it gets hot? I have not tried it yet but thought I'd ask for tips. Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Calvin Watts on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 10:43 am:

Start with exhaust manifold. Put gland rings in block then take a little permatex sealer and use a few small dabs to hold gasket rings in place. Carefully install manifold to block making sure all lines up and fits together. If it doesn't manifold is warped. Then take the two end hold down lugs and put them on studs turned up on down instead of side to side. Like an I instead of an - if that makes sense. Then
Snug them up to hold exhaust while you put on intake. Once again put rings in block but this time use permatex sealer on both sides of gasket ring. Then install intake. Use the remainng hold down lugs in normal way to hold intake and manifold then turn other two to hold ends correctly and tighten down. Really easy and simple and it works. Doesn't take 3 hands.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Milton,WA on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 11:11 am:

First step is to "straight edge" your exhaust manifold - place straight edge on the bottoms of ports 1 & 4 then check 2 & 3 - they have to perfect if you intend on using the original style ring & glands. I use a pair of cut-off manifold clamps to hold the intake in place first THEN you can install the exhaust manifold looking down over the top making sure all the steel rings stayed in place. Have the original clamps nearby that you can grab easy then install a clamp opposite the cut-off ones, just tighten enough to hold position then remove the cut-offs one at a time replacing both with the original clamps - tighten front to back several times then run to operating temperature, let cool and re-tighten.

Everyone has their own approach to this task. I install the steel ring just part way into the manifolds just to stay put then place the copper gland (or whatever this piece is called) over the ring - one can do it either way - whatever.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By wayne johnson on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 12:58 pm:

Thank you Steve and Calvin. Exactly what I needed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Wells, Hamilton Ontario on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 07:19 pm:

And after that, I find it pays to torque and regularly retorque to 30 ft lbs. Considering how accessible those four nuts are, it doesn't make sense to skip that step.


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