Has anyone used Model A outer bearings in there front wheels. I was going to check my bearings when I noticed the first one I pulled was not a screw in bearing and the other side was. In checking the non screw on bearing I found out the other was a model A front bearing. My screw in bearing was bad so I bought a couple of A bearings and they seem to work great so far. A big plus is they are about a fourth of the price of the screw in's.
Richard -- It's not a good idea to use the Model A bearings on T spindles. The bearings will run on just the tops of the threads in the threaded area of the spindle, which doesn't give them much support.
Many have used '28-'48 outer front wheel bearings back in the day to keep old T's rolling, but they aren't a good fit - the outer diameter of the threads on the T spindle is smaller than the inside diameter in a late unthreaded bearing, so it'll tend to wobble and rotate where it shouldn't rotate.. You could probably make some kind of threaded bushing to tighten up the assembly - Lang's sells bearings with threaded inserts as a cheapo alternative to the expensive original style Timkens:
Do not use the wrong parts in your car, especially in areas that can endanger yourself and others. Those bearings can turn on the T spindles and wear into them. Furthermore, you're counting on only the spindle nut to hold the wheel on. True, that's how Model A's work but, is an A spindle nut heavier and stronger than a T's? The T spindle nut is designed only as a lock nut and expected to do no more than that.
The problem is getting a Model A bearing to stay tight in the race.
The Model T bearing threads up snug with the wrench and then you adjust the tightness for free rotation without wheel wobble. Then apply the toothed washer, and then the lock nut is snugged while you hold the flats on the T bearing to keep it in the position you set it, and the inner race can't turn, its locked with threads on the spindle.
See this picture, that A bearing was used on a T, and you can see how much wear on its face, can hardly read the script. The A bearing inner race is free to turn, wear, and maintain slop in the bearing, leading to front wheel wobble. Plus it can turn on the threaded spindle and wear out the threads rendering the spindle ruined.
There is also a kit which Vintage Ford has which has a sleeve for the A bearing or similar to be used instead of the outrageous price people get for the threaded bearing. I think the cheapest I have seen the threaded bearing was around 80 or 90 bucks each.
Two outer bearings do cost $75 (L) and $67 (R) (Snyder's 2015 catalog), but that $142 will be well spent, lifetime bearing, if greased and adj. regularly. Small $ for safe touring.
Wouldn't ever want a front wheel to lock up on me.
p.s. Current front bearing prices aren't all that far away in cost, and these are for cars made today in much greater quantity that what our little Model T can support in the market place. Just glad we can get new quality parts for the T
Ford Edge front wheel bearing : $49
Ford Tarus front wheel bearing : $47
My only question is where are these[lifetime] bearings made?? Bud.
As Dan states, "Just glad we can get new quality parts for the T" !!
Remember how we all complained when, for several months, the Timken bearings were not available? Now we're going to complain about the price? Fine, buy the Chinese conversion junk or better yet, stuff the wrong bearing in there. My gosh people...
Was the discussion about the roller bearings or ball bearings? Lang's list Timkin bearings for replacement buy does not state who makes the modern bearings with inserts.
Again,I don't care what they cost if your getting the [Lifetime Quality] Are the real thing usa made or Chinese quality? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.