I remember there was a forum on using molasses to clean parts and I was just told to use agricultural molasses to clean the gas tank. Trouble is no one around Tractor Supply, Feldman's have heard of it.
Does anyone know where to get it and how much it cost. I have to clean a 20 gal. tank.
Hi Joe, So I also looked for molasses and found out that Smart and Final has it in one gallon bottles for around 12 dollars. Save your gas money and get it local. Scott
I got feed grade molasses in a 5 gallon container at the local feed store. Works great diluted 1 gallon molasses to 10 gallons water.
I leave stuff soaking for weeks sometimes months.
If you can't get feed grade molasses at your local farm supply or feed store, sporting goods stores that cater to deer hunters usually have it in gallon jugs.
Got a 1 gal jug at my TSC for $10
Mixed it with 4 gal of water, and in 4 days parts were rust free!
Thank you for all the help, that is what is good about this forum. Dan, thanks for the info, now I know what to look for and tell the young man that he does have it in stock.
Thanks again all.
TSC in California doesnt have it, Scott
Probably causes cancer in CA.
Buy it from Walmart and have it delivered free to your local store:
It's the same brand I buy at Mills Fleet Farm in Minnesota (Herd Life aka Evolved Habits, 82 Brix, etc.) - deer on the front label, cows on the back label:
Will it cause pitting if parts are left to long?
What about a T block any damage to Babbitt?
One of several info pages on the web about molasses for rust removal. Pot metal can't take the treatment, but pot metal isn't so good anyway!
It's cheap, and works. This is photo from several years ago, a guy who owns a custom car shop about 50 miles east of me. He has big outdoors area and built him a big pot of molasses and water....sure does the work of making sheet metal clean of rust!
Higby's Country Feed in Dixon, CA has it. $25 for a 5 gallon bucket. It works wonderfully to take off the rust!
Oh MY, Packard parts!!!
I might try it on one of my extra cylinder heads.
Thanks for the information!
I've heard that it weakens castings. It worked on some sheet metal that I tried.
I have never tried it but I heard that it may eat cast iron and alum.
Why do people pass on bad results they have heard about when they actually have no personal experience themselves? I have yet to hear from a single person who has personally had a bad experience, But every time molasses rust removal is discussed online someone chimes in with a horror story about how a an entire car frame was dissolved or it ate up an engine block or it caused a casting to fail but is always a story from some unknown person, never first hand experience. I've had nothing but good results and will continue to tell people to try it until I hear from the actual people that the bad experiences actually happened to. I have a feeling I'll have to wait till a certain place freezes over!
only trying to help its nice to know what might happen before you destroy your hard to get parts. I allways welcome advice that is given in good faith
I am in the process of creating a complete car from parts and have used if to remove the rust from many body panels, front axle, spindles, tie rods, front springs, door hinges, door latches, body brackets and more and as I previously stated it takes the rust off well. I leave the parts in the tank 2-3 weeks and am using about a 1:8 ratio of molasses to water. I have not noticed any deterioration of the cast iron pieces.
The process removes the rust down to bare metal so once you wash it off the metal flash rusts quickly. Jasco Prep & Primer (not diluted) easily takes this flash rust off.
The molasses mixture generally does not remove paint but I have found that if the paint was marginal to begin with it will loosen it up so you can blast it off with water and a garden nozzle.
Hope this info helps.
Howard, What makes you think the people do not actual have experience that there my be a problem.
If there is a warning that a problem might exist I think warning of its possibility is a good thing so that one can be a bit more careful than normal.
Here is one first hand experience, at the college I worked at we had a molasses bath for students to clean rusty parts in when they were doing the vehicle restoration course we ran.
My boss had a unrestored 1923 Model T he was building. He decided to have a Model A crankshaft fitted and upon receiving it tied a wire on to the end and lowered it into the molasses.
After a few days he retrieved it only to find it had been destroyed, the whole shaft had deep holes all over it, some up to a 1/16th inch deep.
The carbon in the shaft was eaten away by the sugar we were told.
Only good thing was he had not had the shaft altered to fit the Model T block. I may be able to track down the offending shaft and take photo's of it.
So I would definately take note of any warnings in case you are cleaning a rare part, but molasses is a good cleaner.
Peter, your observations on the A crankshaft are interesting. I had a 44 gallon drum molasses bath going when I built my 15 tourer and the 12 chocolate van, cleaning a multitude of different parts. I never had any problems with steel components, but I was checking frequently in my impatience to get things done. Cast iron was a different story. It has to be watched, and removed as soon as possible to avoid drastic pitting. was told it was the carbon being eaten out. I was not aware that such could happen with steel.
Molasses certainly does not like paint or grease.
For dry rust it is excellent.
Allan from down under.
Peter, here's my personal experience. I've used a regular store bought coffee can punched full of holes and suspended from mechanics wire for the last two years to clean small nuts and bolts and have yet to get a pit in either one. I really have to ask why anyone would suspend a precision machined part in molasses unless it was covered in rust and if it was how do we know it wasn't already pitted?
Allan, what do you mean molasses doesn't like paint or grease? My experience has been it doesn't do anything to grease and where ever grease is on a part it stops the removal of rust. If paint is present and has good adhesion the molasses does nothing to it but if the paint has rust underneath it will remove the paint that has been compromised by rust.
Howard, there is always time to expand ones experience, I first used Molasses over 40 years ago and am an avid fan of it.
The crankshaft was rusty ( light not pitted) seems the thought to put it in the molasses was a normal one. It works great on sheet metal why not solid thick steel? Other ways such as sandblasting, wire brushing, hand sanding seem at first thought to be likely to damage the journals where the molasses just cleans off the rust leaving a nice clean surface.
The damaged marks were nothing like pit marks, they were multi sided star like black holes which had razor sharp edges on them, if you tried to wipe the metal with a rag they cut into and shredded the rag.
A friend who has a working molasses tank tell me it will damage all high carbon hardened steels such as crankshafts and axles.
I can only pass on the message, if someone wants to try it so be it but I would be certainly keeping a sharp eye out to make sure nothing happens. Often the process is seen as a soak and leave and return later process which may be a problem.
If this discussion was on one of the other useful restoration liquids Caustic Soda solution the warning would be to not use it to strip aluminium of paint. The old painter I worked with decided to clean his spray gun of the built up paint by submerging it on a wire overnight. When he pulled the wire out next day nothing was on the end. We found the brass and steel parts in the bottom of the drum but the aluminium had been dissolved by the solution.
He did not know that it would just the same way most of us here do not know what molasses can do.
You are right Dennis. Paint and grease will not let molasses work its magic.
Allan from down under.