What year is this model T?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: What year is this model T?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 05:34 am:

Fresh US import


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 05:58 am:

Kevin, the doors going right to the bottom are typical of 1913 cars. The windscreen should be supported on two straight brackets down to the top of the cowl sides, and it should fold forward.

It looks quite a nice example, with a later NH Holley carburetor.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 07:27 am:

Nice looking '13 Kevin! If I might ask, where'd you get it from and what did you give for it, and I'd be curious as to the shipping cost.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:02 am:

Kevin,

You have a very nice looking 1913 Model T Runabout. If the parts are original to the car, it would have been produced mid-year or earlier as it still has the frame with the shorter rear cross member and the bolted on body brackets (ref page 149 Bruce McCalley (RIP) “Model T Ford” says “replaced by longer rear cross member beginning early in the year. While the MTFCI judging standards page 6 of the 1913 year for the frame state, “Rear cross-member changed to wider design at mid-year. ) rather than the wider rear cross member of the later cars.

If you would like a detailed review of the car – please let folks know, otherwise your original question of what year is it, early 1913 to mid 1913 model year and not a late 1913 based on the frame. Note Bruce’s book (also CD) has an excellent discussion of the 1913 models.

And of course if the car has not been rewooded, would you please check under the front seat cushion to see if there is a body number or letter stamped into the wooden seat frame as you look down towards the gas tank?

Again great looking 1913 – congratulations on your new T!

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:35 am:

Those top bows are totally screwed up. Somebody really didn't know what they were doing. It would take too much typing to explain what is going on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:36 am:

Well done guys it was purchased as a 13. Sadly its not mine but a friend a few doors down who has been looking for this model here in NZ for about 15yrs. He found this in the US on the net and purchased it sight unseen. I picked it up from the shipping company for him as he lives in the Nth Island at the moment but is returning here once he sells up there. He is flying home for a look at it this Sat so we will have a go at starting it up.
Tim, it was purchased in Virginia & was shipped via New York. Cost - 4K for shipping alone (not sure if thats us or nz) but I know it cost $7,500nz to clear once it was here! Thieves, $5,500 of that is GST (Tax).
Hes never driven a T so I guess (hoping) I will be having lots to do with it... next best thing (as long as its not polishing lol) without owning it.
Two T's in our street now!
Hap - will check under the seat
Alan - NH ..good spotting, anything else doesnt look correct guys?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:37 am:

Oh yeah one more Q did they come out black in early 13?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:38 am:

Great looking car, Kevin!

What's up with the "one-way" fan belt with the arrows on it? :-)

(Message edited by cudaman on May 05, 2015)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 08:41 am:

Yeah I see that. I havent touched the car in anyway except take the screen off for towing home so what you see is how it arrived. I guess so they knew which was to refit it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 09:51 am:

It looks like a fairly correct '13 to me. Other than the later NH carb, there is the obvious water pump which has been added, and what appears to be a battery box. I don't see any kind of starter or generator, so maybe that's for something else.

There was a discussion here on the forum recently about the '13 turtles not having a bead around the bottom of them. The one on this car appears to have that bead, so it must be a later turtle. The pics don't show the rear corners of the turtle, which would be "sharp" corners on a '13 only and rounded on '14 and later ones. Oh -- and the dash shield is missing.

My guess on the fan belt with the arrows is that a previous owner or mechanic needed to remove the belt for some reason and wanted to put it back the same way.

It's a beautiful car, nonetheless! I wouldn't kick it out of my garage. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 09:55 am:

p.s. -- The color should be Midnight Blue for a '13. Maybe whoever restored it saw its paint and thought it was black.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 10:03 am:

Mechanically it has an added water pump, NH carb, and after market brakes that I can tell. But a nice looking 13 to be sure. May not be 100% (pure) for a purist. In a parade nobody would notice.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 10:53 am:

the turtle looks to have Sharpe corners so maybe mid 13 if it is not a repo. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 11:15 am:

It may not have the correct engine block either. I've not seen an engine number stamped in that manner, nor does it have a casting date. The bead on the turtle deck is interesting. Over all, it appears to be a decent car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 01:21 pm:

yes it is a later block for sure.charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 04:33 pm:

Thats good feedback guys, the owner will be rapt. I thought I had read where Black was a little later.
1.Does the dash shield go on the floor to cover the rear of the engine as it looks like a gap there?
2.Brakes are Rocky Mountain.
3.Is the water pump an after market brand or did Ford offer these?
4. there no ability to attach starter so I maybe its hard to start on Mag because theres nothing else to run? Did 13's not have a battery?
5. How do I work out the year of the engine? Its obviously pre starter as mentioned so when did the starter first get fitted? is there any pics I can take help work this out?
6. It has an aluminium exhaust manifold & Hogs head?
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 04:52 pm:

1. Yes. It goes above the floorboards and attaches to the firewall. Fun Projects makes nice reproductions.
3. Aftermarket
4. You're probably right about the battery. Most folks back then (and now) used a small battery under the seat to power the coils for easier starting. The big battery under the floor began in 1919.
5. The starter began in 1919 on closed cars and 1920 on open cars. The starter attaches to the hogshead, so it can be added to a non-starter car by changing the hogshead, flywheel, and mag ring. Engines had accommodation for a generator beginning in 1919 as well. Your car's engine doesn't have that, so it's 1918 or earlier.
6. It should have an aluminum intake manifold and hogshead.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 06:04 pm:

Thanks Mike.
So at this stage the battery, Water pump & maybe the motor and the body isn't original at this stage?
How can I get an exact year the motor was built?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 06:15 pm:

Looks like engine number 188419 in the photo. That would make it January 1913.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 06:20 pm:

That would be great Henry if your correct, some posters above seem to think the engine isn't original?
I'm heading down soon I'll take a clearer pic.
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 07:45 pm:

Well Kevin, even if it is the correct engine number, there are always the possibilities that it's a replacement engine and was stamped by the person who replaced it with the original engine number, it's a replacement engine salvaged from another car, and of course that it is the original engine.

Of course there's an old tried and true theory that all other thing being equal, the simple answer tends to be the correct answer. It's a '13 car with a '13 engine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 09:10 pm:

Kevin,

I do not believe anyone has said the body is not correct for a 1913. It is clearly a 1913 runabout body.

There were comments about the rear turtle deck. The rear deck is removable. A later rear deck would not make the car a 1914 as rest of the body and running gear are looking to 1913 from what I have seen so far. Better pictures will clear that up quickly. I.e. the current photo of the rear portion of the turtle deck is shown below (note it has the correct 1913-early 1915 rear axle):




The 1913 rear turtle deck is shown below – note the sharp rear corners:



On the 1914 and later rear turtle decks it has rounded corners.

Starting during the 1912 year, Ford moved the serial number to behind the water inlet and then to above the water inlet. It remained in that location over the water inlet for the remainder of production. Below is a 1915 engine showing the pad above the water inlet for the serial number and the casting date to the right and lower part of the block for the casting date. From page 38 of the Jan-Feb 1982 “Vintage Ford” used by permission:



Again a very nice looking 1913 Ford. Photos of the engine freeze plugs, valve covers, may also help date the engine block. As well as does it or does it not have the “Made in USA” below the Ford Scrip?

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 09:26 pm:

More pics guys.
The 2nd 8 in the engine number looks like a large 2 upside down?

I notice the battery lead is only a small wire so its not running much. The coils buzz off the key.

Hap - looks like new wood under the seat i couldn't see any numbers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 10:12 pm:

It's a very nice car. You folks should just drive and enjoy it and never look back.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 10:55 pm:

Assuming the 2 was just stamped upside down and the number is 182419, it then becomes a December 1912 engine. Still a 1913 year model.

Ted is 100% right. Drive and enjoy it. It's a great car!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John C Codman on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 10:58 pm:

According to Lang's web page, The engine (assuming that the 2 is simply stamped upside-down), would be a late 1912 production engine. It probably could have been installed in early 1913.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 11:23 pm:

Whether the upside down number represents a 2 or a 7 hardly matters. That's a difference of only nine days, December 31 to January 8, and both are in the 1913 model year.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 12:22 am:

Maybe it's an optical illusion, but the one front view pic makes it look like the front axle could be a very late '27 with the curve in it??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 01:34 am:

The upside-down 2 could also have been supposed to have been a "5". (I have actually worked as a typesetter! Mixing up 2s and 5s is almost as common a mistake as b, d, p, and q.)
That said, it is not the original serial number. It is the wrong typeset. (Besides, I can see part of the original number in the photo.
A very nice 1913 T nonetheless. I hope your friend drives it and enjoys it for a long time!
W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 02:15 am:

Ok well i guess we'll never really know for sure.
I'll let you know how it runs after we have a play on Sat.
Thanks for all your help and good wishes.

Kevin


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 04:19 am:

Hap - sorry I've just read your feedback, do you mean water outlet not inlet?
Here is another pic to see if the turtle deck corners are sharp?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 05:02 am:

Kevin,

It is clearly the 1913 style turtle deck with the sharp corners. I still haven't located a good 1915-1922 shot that is public domain or I have permission to post that clearly shows the rounded corners of the later turtle deck.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 05:58 am:

Kevin,

You asked, “…do you mean water outlet not inlet?” I mean water inlet. [Disclaimer -- I have gotten things like that wrong before and will again in the future -- you know -- the other left, I mean right...] The engine serial number for the mid 1912 to 1927 engines is stamped over the water inlet. The cold water enters the side of the engine away from the manifolds. As it is heated by the engine the hot water rises and exits out the front top of the engine into the top of the radiator. From the MTFCA web site they have the booklet, “A MODEL T FORD SERVICE COURSE” at http://www.mtfca.com/books/Course.htm which has the illustration below.



Illustration below is from page 12 of the Aug 5, 1928 (yes 1928) Ford Price List of Parts:



Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 05:59 am:

Ok I will keep an eye out for one in my travels. We have a 15-16 in town here buts it got a wooden deck on it.
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 06:34 am:

Kevin,

First, great 1913 regardless of how the engine block comes out.

As Wayne pointed out above, the original serial number is partially visible.



If the block has pipe threaded plugs on the side of the engine – that is an earlier style than the Welch freeze plugs that were introduced later. There was some overlap when both styles were used. From: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/E.htm#eng2 some other items that can be used to help provide a better date range of the engine block:

CYLINDER BLOCK
Date of Change Factory Number Change
07-13-08 T400 Adopted
01-15-09 T400AR Added flat to keep rear main bearing bolt from turning
12-02-26 T400AR Obsolete
02-08-09 T400B Removed 1-1/8" boss, also 1/8" pipe tap from front end of cylinder at point marked " A."
11-05-10 T400C New design (enclosed valves)
01-18-11 T400C Changed CS bearings from die cast babbitt to poured.
03-30-11 T400C Moved valve cover door up 1/8".
04-10-11 T400C Removed T-427 valve stem bushing and replace with cast boss
09-19-11 T400C Increased depth of water jacket 3/16" and moved valve cover down 3/16"
04-16-12 T400C Added "Made in U.S.A." to side of engine.
07-01-12 T400C Removed 5/8" spotting bosses from left side.
12-08-13 T400C Removed 1/2’ pipe taps from water jacket.
07-18-14 T400C Removed rear oil hole from center CS bearing.
10-01-14 T400C Specified 1/4" drain holes in valve chambers
07-23-15 T400C Specified rolled finish cylinder walls.
06-21-16 T400C Removed spotting boss from rear end.
07-24-19 T400C Obsolete - replaced by T-400-D starter type).
12-17-18 T400D1 Adopted for Sedan and Coupe
04-18-19 T400D1 Specified for used on all cars instead of for sedan and coupe only.

Note there was also a thread that discussed how the police can sometimes put something where the number used to be and be able to tell what the number was. I looked for that posting, but I did not find it. Perhaps someone else may remember it and know a link to it? But the following link describes one such process: http://www.evidencemagazine.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=366 Your friend may or may not want to try that.

Again, great looking car I’m sure the owner will have lots of fun with. And don’t forget to have him verify that the thrust washers are bronze and not Babbitt in the rear axle. (In 1913 the Fords came with bronze thrust washers in the differential but they could have easily been replaced sometime over the years.)

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 06:42 am:

Some information on the front fenders:



Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 06:51 am:

Kevin,

Thanks for looking for the body number. If the body was rewooded then the body number is usually gone. But if it is there, on the open cars into 1915 it is usually on the wooden seat frame rail that is located in front of the gas tank as shown below. This is from a 1914 touring that I took, but would be similar on the 1913s also:



Also if you look on the front seat heel panel you will sometimes find the letter that indicates which body maker produced the body.



Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 07:36 am:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/316033.html?1349709332


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 08:09 am:

Hap, here's a rounded-edge turtle deck you can use.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 08:24 am:

Kevin,

Good looking 1913 runabout. Wish it were mine!

The very best source for original 1913 Model T photos is here:

http://www.modelt.org/mtfcivb/showthread.php/1127-The-1913-Model-T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 10:20 am:

That's a great bunch of '13 pics, Royce. Thanks for posting them. I noticed that the next-to-last pic shows a '13 with the bead around the bottom of the turtle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 05:52 pm:

Same Roycs, I like the round crank in the 7th last pic.
Hep - Thanks for spending so much time providing all this info its brilliant! I will head down the road soon and look again for those seat numbers.
Considering I'm only new to the T game I have learnt so much in a few days just from Posting the 13 pics. Its so interesting...I love it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 07:08 pm:

No numbers under seat or letters on panel Hep.
There isn't as much much forward slope on the gaurds as your pics but they arent exactly vertical either


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 09:13 pm:

Ed and Steve – thank you for the turtle deck link and photo! I need to file them where I can find them in the future.

Kevin – thanks for looking for the number and body letter. I suspect originally it had a number stamped into the wood. But not all the cars had the body letter on the metal heel panel. I’m glad you are having fun learning more about the Ts. With 15,000,000 plus from multiple countries – I think we will all have more to learn than time to learn it. But having some general information can be a big help to folks. Bruce and others before him did a great job. And now we can continue to add information and details as it comes to light.

Mike – the one with the 1913 doors and the bead around the bottom of the turtle deck, I sure wish it had another view showing the shape of the turtle deck’s rear corners. Ford tended to make “running changes” more than “model year changes.” Apparently some late 1913s were fitted with the windshield that folded to the rear that is typically associated with the 1914 model year cars. I wonder if the turtle deck in the photo had the sharp corners characteristic of the 1913s or the rounded corners characteristic of the 1914s? And of course different suppliers could provide slightly different parts as long and they fit and functioned as Ford desired. The 1913 rear turtle deck – did some of them have a bead as well as the sharp rear corners? That is a study/research I would like to see pursued for additional information. We have nothing to loose – (ok some time). I believe many folks would welcome an answer if one can be substantiated.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Thursday, May 07, 2015 - 09:23 am:

I didn't see a follow up to Eric Johnson's comment, so I will...

I don't see anything wrong with the top bows. They are folded down in the "up" position. If the front bow was dropped down to ride in the lower eyelet, the bows would nestle together just fine.

Reminds me of a T I saw at auction. They had the front bow left in the "stored" position and had long straps stretched to the windshield, holding it in a tortured position. I could not fathom how someone couldn't figure out how it was meant to go as it seems obvious to me.

It really is a fine looking car (very few are stock-correct and perfect)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, May 07, 2015 - 09:31 am:

Was the windshield included, shipped separately?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Thursday, May 07, 2015 - 06:56 pm:

Hap - Of course it is the water inlet when you think about it.
Scott yes it makes sense that very few will still be stock perfect after this time.
Roger - Yes the screen come with the car but the shipping company (I guess) had lowered the top & undone and twisted the screen around lying flat.
After loading on my trailer I removed it for towing home as it was blowing a gail. Tomorrow morning the owner is due to arrive and we'll fit the screen, lift the roof and try and start it. I'll take some more pics then and post.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Saturday, May 09, 2015 - 01:13 am:

Update - Fuel tank had been renewed prior to shipping and it looked like rust inhibitor coming out of the drain so gave a couple of rinses with fuel until it run clean.
Cranked about a 100 times (Its not easy cranking, very tight), was good training for the new owner lol then discovered no fuel in the fuel bowl. It had a new NH fitted also last year so I'm guessing the stuff from the tank is blocked the Carby as there is fuel getting to the carby.
Do you guys suggest removing the bowl to inspect & try to clean or simply remove carby and clean it on the bench?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Saturday, May 09, 2015 - 02:38 am:

It only takes a minute to drop the bowl and see if there is a bunch of gunk in the bottom of it. If the bowl isn't too bad, pulling the pin on the float and cleaning the valve in place is easy enough. Sometimes that is all that is needed. More than that? The workbench is much more comfortable.
My tuppence worth.
Also, for whatever it is worth. I prefer original type float valves instead of the modern replacement types.

I do like that car!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Saturday, May 09, 2015 - 04:17 am:

The car had been on display in a show room for 20yrs following restoration before being purchased. They had the car tested before they shipped it and decided to fit a new gas tank and carby. The original carby has came with the car. I dont know what sort of float valve it has...yet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Sunday, May 10, 2015 - 11:52 pm:

The Carby was blocked with gunk, cleaned it out and after 30 odd cranks she fired up.
Water pump was seized but that freed up after a few turns with a wrench and then took it for a spin. Motor runs sweet, didn't over heat and no visible smoking. Really nice to drive really.
First try of Rocky mountain brakes and I really like them, much more positive than trans brake.
Lotto ticket this week lol
The car must have a different diff ratio than my 27 as I could drive around in 1st gear (my 1st is only good to get rolling and too slow to drive more than a short distance) but when going into top gear its just on the point of being too high a gear & takes ages to pull away again, 30 odd mph and the engine is only ticking over doing about 1,000rpm it seemed. Definitely geared different to mine.
Two issues - Wont run on Mag, its the same as turning the key to off.
Reverse is very noisy, other gears fine but reverse is like driving a really old car with a whiney gearbox. My reverse doesnt make this much noise?

Guys - Diff ratio different in 1913?
- Whats an easy way to test mag output?
- What to look for under trans cover re noisy reverse?

Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 10:05 am:

Kevin -- Someone probably put 3:1 gears in it. The standard 3.64:1 likely would be a better all-around choice.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 11:15 am:

The taillight bracket is the later touring model. The roadster bracket is mounted on the back side of the sill. I couldn't find a photo of it in Bruces book to reference it to.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Stewart -Calif. on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 07:17 pm:

That's a sweet 1913 T Runabout! Hap. Have you ever see another Body ID with a letter in the date since I posted mine a long time ago? My 14 Runabout, Body ID. 3 M 14 131351. Stamped on kick plate under seat MB. My 14 Dash plaque # 371928, Engine cast date 11/22/1913, Engine # 395707.
Thanks Mark Stewart


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Ninedorf on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 01:20 am:

I have 3 model t turtles for sale, best one with the double handles, two with key locks, better and rust-out. here is pic of rounded corners.rounded corner t turtle deckmodel t turtle double latch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Ninedorf on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 01:28 am:

I have 3 model t turtles for sale, best one with the double handles, two with key locks, better and rust-out. here is pic of rounded corners.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 08:04 am:

The one in the pictures is 1915-18.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 08:17 am:

Looks like my friends 14.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house . . .caldwell county, TX on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 08:48 am:

Mike, I assume you stated '15-'18 because the escutcheon plates under the 2 handles are steel and not brass ....right? And these handle mounting plates are brass for the '14 .... right?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Thursday, June 04, 2015 - 08:46 pm:

Rick & George -- That was a typo. I meant to say '14-18. If there is a difference between a '14 and a '15, I'm not aware of it. Maybe the escutcheon is different, I don't know.


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